Volvo Engine Overhaul

oldbutspry · July 27, 2017

Looking at Volvo HDT's for sale I see quite a range in mileage. Just curious how much that matters. At what point should someone start thinking of overhauling the engine? And what is typically replaced to make the truck reliable? And what is the cost?

With a car, I usually think rings/bearings, oil pump and maybe valvetrain items. And while you're at it you may as well replace the starter, water pump and alternator. And from what I'm reading diesel trucks seem to have injector problems somewhat frequently. Am I thinking along the right lines or are there extra items to consider?

Jack Mayer · July 27, 2017

You generally overhaul the engine "when it needs it".....which is going to vary based on luck, previous care, and current usage. The B50 on most of the major engines is on the order of 1M miles. But that can be deceiving.....as a statistical average. The early pollution trucks tend to be somewhat lower than that if you listen to "the street". But since the manufacturers do not publish their "problems" via statistical data, it is hard to really know.

I'd say any well cared for truck that is under 750K is something I'd look at. Price is important since you are going to WANT to replace a number of things on it.

I can tell you that on almost ANY truck you can easily and justifiably put in $2k+ just in preemptive and routine maintenance when getting it "ready" for RV service. That is having it done. You can mitigate that cost a great deal if you do things yourself. And I'm talking major systems work, not adding a Jackalopee and other stuff like that to make it RV-ready. Higher mileage trucks will need more "things". While the engine may be fine, the "peripheral" components will degrade and you will choose to replace many things....seals, hoses, sensors, etc.

Age (not miles) also makes a difference on things like hoses, and some other components.

While we do continue to buy spec trucks, upgrade them and resell them - we generally no longer look at trucks with over 500K on them. And I really prefer trucks with around 300K more or less. Statistically they require less "work".

You can find very nice, sound trucks with higher miles. Just set aside a repair budget, and also a "preemptive upgrade" budget.....You may still come out cheaper in the end. But it will take some effort. The best "deal" is a known truck that has been in RV service for some time. Almost all RV-owners take pretty good care of their trucks. It is a better starting point than an off-commercial truck that is unknown.

13speed · July 27, 2017

14 hours ago, oldbutspry said:

Looking at Volvo HDT's for sale I see quite a range in mileage. Just curious how much that matters. At what point should someone start thinking of overhauling the engine? And what is typically replaced to make the truck reliable? And what is the cost?

With a car, I usually think rings/bearings, oil pump and maybe valvetrain items. And while you're at it you may as well replace the starter, water pump and alternator. And from what I'm reading diesel trucks seem to have injector problems somewhat frequently. Am I thinking along the right lines or are there extra items to consider?

Watch some of Gregg's videos as they are a wealth of information. The amount of things that need replacing even on a newer lower milage truck like Jack's 2015/200K are what pushed me to order a brand new one. Now I am fortunate enough to be able to do that and I know a lot of people cannot however, just know that going into this like anything else in life you need to plan for the worst and hope for the best. Truck repairs are quite expensive. Preventative maintenance/part replacing is a good thing but there will always be something that you did not anticipate and it will cost more than you think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcxxxKKaL_U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prj1sSdUcI0

Pete Kildow · July 27, 2017

Most times if its been taking care of. Most owners will pull the oil pan after 750 850,000 miles. And roll in main and rod bearings. I have seen engines that have given the owner, 1,000,000 miles. 750,000 then roll in bearings. Then at 1,000,000 m they do an in-frame. As long as the crank was good. They have new liners, pistons and stuff added. Then run it again. Buddy of mine has a peterbilt 379. That truck is working on 4,500,000 now.

If its a 60 series Detroit, most times at around 850,000 most will do the Bull Gear. Then roll in new bearings. For some reason, engines are lasing lots longer these days. Back in 1985 when I started out driving. Most engines at 300,000 had to be in-framed. That or new bearings for sure. But Oil and other stuff has gotten where its extending the life of the engines.

Also most truck at 800,000 will start needing King pins, steering parts and other items replaced also. Some trucks can turn into a bottomless pit. I looked at a 2000 International 9900L Ealge. Nice looking truck, owner Operator owned. Truck had 1.3 million miles on it. Owner had been out $37,000.oo on that truck in 2015. But had replaced about everything that could be replaced on it. Engine was in-framed at 950,000. I did not buy it, but local guy did. Ran the truck 114,000 this past year. He was out a set of tires, oil changes and get this. Wiper motor. For my use that would have given me years of use with low cost.

Pete

rickeieio · July 27, 2017

As mentioned above, the age can be as costly as the miles. Things like window motors, wiper arms, door seals, A/C parts, seat valves, and that stupid Volvo cup holder in the middle of the dash, the one everyone pushes on when exiting the back of the truck.

I spent an hour fabricating some slides from scrap plastic to avoid paying several hundred $$$ for new window regulators. If you're handy, and innovative, you can save a ton of money, and an older truck can provide you with hours of "entertainment."

GeorgiaHybrid · July 28, 2017

5 hours ago, rickeieio said:

...... If you're handy, and innovative, you can save a ton of money, and an older truck can provide you with hours of "entertainment."......

It can also provide hours of target practice for your .50 BMG

Darryl&Rita · July 28, 2017

You guys worry too much about engine work. Engines are easy enough to work on, when the whole hood flops forward, If that's not enough room, simply pull the whole thing out. Easey, peasy:

oldbutspry · July 28, 2017

Wow, this is a lot of good information. I guess I was pretty focused on the engine but not many of these are garaged so they are out in the weather all the time. That would take a toll on most everything. I'm not going to buy a very new truck but I don't want something that's going to give me constant problems, either. I can fix stuff myself but I'm not wanting a second career as a mechanic.

noteven · July 28, 2017

14 hours ago, rickeieio said:

As mentioned above, the age can be as costly as the miles. Things like window motors, wiper arms, door seals, A/C parts, seat valves, and that stupid Volvo cup holder in the middle of the dash, the one everyone pushes on when exiting the back of the truck.

I spent an hour fabricating some slides from scrap plastic to avoid paying several hundred $$$ for new window regulators. If you're handy, and innovative, you can save a ton of money, and an older truck can provide you with hours of "entertainment."

Rick! Thou shalt not sayest "stupid" re. some thing on a Volvo!

rickeieio · July 29, 2017

16 hours ago, noteven said:

Rick! Thou shalt not sayest "stupid" re. some thing on a Volvo!

It's my unsolicited opinion, that every manufacturer has some $tupid $tuff on their machines. Parts that are poorly designed, installed in such a manner as to be prone to damage, and overpriced to fix. That cup holder is a prime example. Dumb, dumb, dumb.........

Besides, I paid the admission into the Volvo Club, so I can say it. I own John Deeres, Fords, etc, and they're all the same.

I will say, European engineered vehicles seem to be the worst.

oldbutspry · July 29, 2017

This thread is the first time I remember hearing about the cupholder being a problem. I guess people break it by putting weight on it when moving back to front? What's the fix - reinforce it or just learn not to hold on to it?

rickeieio · July 29, 2017

At the risk of perpetuating a hi-jack.......... The cup holder is in a place where it's natural to place a hand to steady yourself as you pass through between the seats. If you use the truck as a taxi, (grand kids, etc.) pressure is applied, and it's not a robust piece.

adept99 · July 29, 2017

New Cup Holder, New Overhead Cabinet Door, New Door Mirror (L+R) Enclosures. Nope, can't afford a single round of 50-BMG for plastic demolition entertainment purposes...