Jim Gell Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 I am designing my chocks so I can effectively tell someone else how to build them to hold our new 2016 smart on our truck. I remembered that the radius curve in my old chocks was too long/gentle, so the tires hit the lower part of chock and left a space at the top, where I feel contact it is most needed. I measured horizontally and also looked up the radius of the tires online. They are a little shy of 12 inches. So I made a paper side view of a chock using a 12 inch radius. I compared it to an old chock and saw that it was not as tight/short a radius. So I knew I was doing something wrong. It immediately dawned on me that the tires are not round with the weight of car on them and that would need to be factored in. So maybe a simple uniform radius is not even what I would want. So let's look at this from the opposite extreme. Why even try to have the tire tread meet the chock along a curve. Why not just use a piece of 4 inch angle iron that will make contact with the tire at the top of the chock? Not to scale, but something like this: oL I would bolt lashing winches to the rear center and have two holes for 1/2 inch bolts to secure it. Any thoughts? Would it be advantageous to have slots cut in the angle for the bolts to pass through, such that I could slide the chock in tight to the wheel? 2001 Volvo 770, Detroit 60 Series, Gen 2 Autoshift Passenger assist elevator to enter cab - for when we need it, or sell it? '05 Travel Supreme Select 40 RLQSO 5th wheel 2016 smart car We started full timing on December 1st 2014 Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness - Mark Twain Not all that wander are lost - J. R. R. Tolkien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billr Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 4" high 45 degree plate for tire to contact . Fits tires fine. Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups 2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio 2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3 2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 A straight triangle works for me. No need to overengineer these things. Want a pic of my chocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gell Posted February 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 I can mock up a 4" x 4" x 4" triangle out of cardboard and see how it fits against my tire. I assume that is a what you both mean by "4" high and 45 degree plate", and by "a straight triangle". Why do I need the angled plate toward the tire. If I use an angle the other direction, with the leg on the bottom coming away from the tire, I likely would not even need to hire a fabricator to make them. I can bolt lashing winch to the vertical leg, and bolt the bottom side toward the deck to the deck. Jim 2001 Volvo 770, Detroit 60 Series, Gen 2 Autoshift Passenger assist elevator to enter cab - for when we need it, or sell it? '05 Travel Supreme Select 40 RLQSO 5th wheel 2016 smart car We started full timing on December 1st 2014 Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness - Mark Twain Not all that wander are lost - J. R. R. Tolkien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billr Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Pic of a what I'm referring to. Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups 2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio 2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3 2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gell Posted February 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Bill, Thanks for the pic. Do you think you need the plate the tire rests against? I am thinking of putting the bolts to hold mine down on the lashing winch side of the chock, but that may need to change. I have not fine tuned the idea, but I think I can drill 2 sets of holes in the chocks and use one set of holes for the front and the other for the rear position. All four chocks would be interchangeable. I am sure the majority of time, I will drive up the passenger side and off the driver side. But if my bolt pattern works, the car can be facing either direction and still have it centered so the car hangs over each side of bed the same distance, 2". Yes, I know I would need to climb over to get to the passenger door to get out, but there may be a situation where that is worth the effort. I also plan to have the holes in the deck for the chocks uniformly spaced to fit any chock and such that they will also be used to attach my ramps during loading. Jim 2001 Volvo 770, Detroit 60 Series, Gen 2 Autoshift Passenger assist elevator to enter cab - for when we need it, or sell it? '05 Travel Supreme Select 40 RLQSO 5th wheel 2016 smart car We started full timing on December 1st 2014 Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness - Mark Twain Not all that wander are lost - J. R. R. Tolkien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Make it a sloppy slot so it can be twisted for crooked loading.Get big fender washers.Lock washers won't be big enough.I'm on the move this weekend an can send all the pics an measurements you want.I cab try Photoshop or your email.It will give you an idea of my clearances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Don't believe your front air dam will clear a 4"tall chock. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 5.5" clearance on my 2017....Maybe your tires were flat. Is that what they call "Sport Suspension?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 My 2016 has a rather low front air dam. Barely clears my less than 4 chops. My chop on drivers side angle iron laying down. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 A slight angle to the chock is preferred vs straight up mainly because as you get bounce the tires compress and with it straight up it would be like hitting a curb at every bump and could over long term damage the tire. If you can give the top of the angle a slight bend that would help. It may make removing the chock to drive off easier too. Dave 2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch 2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you! Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/ for much more info on HDT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billr Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 What Dave said. I like a smooth surface for the tires to rest against vs sharp edge. Actually I never had any chocks for 4 yrs. but changed my tiedown method to use the type ratchets on the chocks. I like them way better and easier to tie car without having to climb up and down Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups 2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio 2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3 2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gell Posted February 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 I added an angle to the top edge. How does this look? I keep getting message that I can't use this file type when I include a link to a JPEG saved on another server. I have posted pictures before. Remind me how to post pics? Until then, here is a link to my drawing. https://goo.gl/photos/GwRkEyUXBZDTeooE9 Jim 2001 Volvo 770, Detroit 60 Series, Gen 2 Autoshift Passenger assist elevator to enter cab - for when we need it, or sell it? '05 Travel Supreme Select 40 RLQSO 5th wheel 2016 smart car We started full timing on December 1st 2014 Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness - Mark Twain Not all that wander are lost - J. R. R. Tolkien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'mdonewiththis forum Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Looks good to me. Not sure that I would use left hand threaded bolts though. (LOL, just teasing ya Jim, look at the angle of the bolt threads)(also proof that I really looked at the diagram). Hey to Kathy and have a great day bud. He was just showing the ones for the left side, like the lug nuts were on cars......... Left handed on the left side and right handed on the right side! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 I thought it was a clever anti-theft ploy. Every thief knows "righty-tighty"........... KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Maybe I'm missing something but this doesn't look right to me...It looks like the chock to tire contact point is on one side of the vertical and the bolt holes are on the other...In my case the bolt holes and contact point are on the same side of the vertical. This is a deck of 98" in width. Unless I'm missing something you'd need a 10' wide deck to have these work. I gotta try to post some pics of mine that work. Also the ratchet nut, which is 1 1/8" on my chocks, needs to be on the outside or door side of the respective chocks. This will allow you to use a 1 1/8" ratchet to tighten the ratchet nut and not hit the car. If they are on the inside you will not have much room to spin the wrench without hitting the deck then the underside of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Jim, To easily post photos go here and follow the directions. http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=1 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Thanks Carl. This is my first successful picture. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gell Posted March 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Roger, My deck is 102 inches wide. I think there will be room to put the bolts on the back side, away from tire, of the chocks. But you might be right about them not fitting, particularly with the way I plan to have 4 holes in each chock so I can use them in front or back. That will add a couple inches or more. It's probably not much of a sacrifice if they need to be location dependent chocks and I label them for where the need to go. I think having the bolts even with, or behind the lashing winch would be a stronger design. It may not be needed, but I did not see any reason not to use physics in my favor. I also want the holes in deck near the edge so I can use them for the ramps too. I am glad you mentioned the rachet issue. I think my old lashing winches had nuts on the same side, such that I had to use the my ratchet handle on the inside under the car for one of the chocks. Maybe I can put nuts on both sides of the lashing winches. I plan to make some cardboard mock ups and see how they fit before doing anything in steel. I will let everyone know how it goes. And thanks to Carl, I should be able to post pics again. I appreciate everyones input. Jim 2001 Volvo 770, Detroit 60 Series, Gen 2 Autoshift Passenger assist elevator to enter cab - for when we need it, or sell it? '05 Travel Supreme Select 40 RLQSO 5th wheel 2016 smart car We started full timing on December 1st 2014 Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness - Mark Twain Not all that wander are lost - J. R. R. Tolkien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Perhaps I'm not seeing the big picture, but why not make a full width chock? One for each side of the truck, no need for worrying about which way the car is loaded. The raised portion need not go the full length. We have stake pockets on our bed. My chocks will drop in, spanning the width of the car. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 There are lashing winches that have nuts for tightening on both sides. They cost a little more. They were in the link I posted. Otherwise you have to right or left, as appropriate. I prefer the socket-driven ones over the "bar" tightened ones, but that is more a personal preference thing. One thing I do feel is important is that the holes that secure the chock to the deck are slots, so you can adjust the chock some. Otherwise you may find it hard to get the holes aligned. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 X2. I didn't have slots first time loading Smart. Had to use bottle jack to square car so I could get bolts in. Slotted now 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 I mentioned this earlier. If the car is out of alignment and you can't get bolts in holes. Drive the offending wheel up onto pce of 2x6. It will raise the car enough to slide the chock back in order to get the holes to line up. Also I use a brass tapered punch from EBAY to line the holes up when dark or can't see to line things up. Drop the punch in the hole and wiggle it around to get things more in line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.