Jump to content

NevRLube Redux


SuiteSuccess

Recommended Posts

Was finishing the check of my brakes and bearings and installing magnet clips which were missing from all my magnets. Got to last hub and pulled it off and my NevRLube bearing basically desinigrated in my hand. Other three appear ok. No oil leakage in dust caps nor obvious play in the bearing before removing the hub. Have ordered two new hubs with bearings from Dexter and definitely going to replace the other two canisters ASAP. (Gotta find suspension shop which can press in the new bearings). Glad I found this before two lengthy trips coming up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ouch! Good catch there Suite!

We had to replace a NeverLube while in south Texas last winter. RV has about 20k on it from what I can figure. I got lucky and found a Dexter supplier in Edinburg Tx that had a bearing in stock. Simple 10-minute job to press the old out and the new in. What the shop guy said, was that hard turns- where you scrub the tires, are bad for these bearings. I scrub tires every time I back in a site just about.....

We had over 1/4 of play in the bearing but it hadn't blown apart or seized yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, any hints as to what has been causing these bearing problems around the forum as of late???

Rocky,

 

Mine were due for replacement based on time. We bought the trailer used so suspect they are original and ten years old. I had just procrastinated until the end of this camping season and was going to do it over the winter. The take home lesson for me going forward is that the normal "signs" of failure were absent. No "oil" in the dust cup, no excessive play in wheel, no unusual grinding or catching as I was disassembling. From the pics it just appears the two halves just separated. I will replace when I replace tires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carl, be sure that the bearing installer presses ONLY the outer circumference of the bearing when pressing the new bearing in. You can use a LARGE socket or some other tool that will NOT contact the inner portion of the bearing to prevent damaging the new bearing. You must be living right to find the bad bearing at such an opportune time. I think that your plan of replacing 2 hub assys now and keeping the good pull-off as a spare is a wise one. You could always press a new bearing in the "bad" hub if it is otherwise OK, for future use. Be safe. Charlie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW we are planning on attending the National Rally. Anyone know of a place in Hutch that could press in my new bearings if I brought the cartridges? Shops around here not familiar with NevRLubes and that doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies.

 

Carl,

 

There was someone on here that has a large shop in Hutchinson--I can't remember the name off-hand, but I believe he's normally out west somewhere. I'll have a bearing press set in a few days to press the bearings in/out while the hub is still mounted on my car. If all you need to do is press them in/out, that set should do the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ones I've had done in the past were cut out with a torch. Let the drum cool completely. Put the new bearing in the freezer overnight warm the drum slightly and press the new bearing in. I did have one pressed out and the 40 ton press was maxed right out before the race would release.

 

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW we are planning on attending the National Rally. Anyone know of a place in Hutch that could press in my new bearings if I brought the cartridges? Shops around here not familiar with NevRLubes and that doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies.

 

Hi Carl,

 

I was wondering if the cost for an assembled hub and bearing together would cost that must more than trying to assemble your used hub with a new bearing. At least the new hub and bearing are already assembled. I am just thinking out loud.

 

Wish you the best on your repair,

Al

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help. David what size is your press? I read the way Nigel described is the best way but most suggestions were for up to a hundred ton press. Plus they suggested an arbor that matches the outside rim of the bearing otherwise it could be damaged.

Alan, the two hubs I ordered were $350 a piece plus shipping. The replacement cartridges from Dexter direct are $158. If I can't find someone around here that has the equipment and knowledge, I will probably just order two more hubs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help. David what size is your press? I read the way Nigel described is the best way but most suggestions were for up to a hundred ton press. Plus they suggested an arbor that matches the outside rim of the bearing otherwise it could be damaged.

Alan, the two hubs I ordered were $350 a piece plus shipping. The replacement cartridges from Dexter direct are $158. If I can't find someone around here that has the equipment and knowledge, I will probably just order two more hubs.

 

Hi Carl,

 

Thank you for the price update. That is almost $200 for a hub. I now can understand the reason to re-use the old hubs. By freezing the bearing assembly and heating the hub will help with the assembly. Do not take the bearing assemble below -40f. For the hub, you can use 400f safely. I can not remember the temperature for dry ice. If dry ice gets close to -40f it could help with the process of assembly. The reason for not going below -40f you can chance the microstructure of the bearing. That could cause a problem. I can explain later. The greater the temperature difference the more the parts will change size. This can be a big help with assemble.

 

The best of luck,

Al

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rocky,

 

Mine were due for replacement based on time. We bought the trailer used so suspect they are original and ten years old. I had just procrastinated until the end of this camping season and was going to do it over the winter. The take home lesson for me going forward is that the normal "signs" of failure were absent. No "oil" in the dust cup, no excessive play in wheel, no unusual grinding or catching as I was disassembling. From the pics it just appears the two halves just separated. I will replace when I replace tires.

Carl, I agree with Charlie, you must be living right to have found that before a problem became a disaster!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few seconds with your trusty stick welder will let those old races drop out, likely no press required. Just weld several "dots" around the inside of the race on the surface where the rollers ran. Burn them in, but don't penetrate the race. Lay the hub aside in a cool place, and go get yourself a cool beverage. When you get back out to the garage, peek inside the hub and see if the race has dropped out. If not, a couple of light taps with a drift and small hammer will get it started.

 

Should this fail, weld a couple of short beads to connect some of the "dots". The shrinking of the fresh welds will contract the race and it will fall out.

 

No need to get excited about lots of heat and freezing to press in the new bearings. Chill the bering in the fridge and warm the hub with a heat gun. Work fairly quickly and it will be easy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few seconds with your trusty stick welder will let those old races drop out, likely no press required. Just weld several "dots" around the inside of the race on the surface where the rollers ran. Burn them in, but don't penetrate the race. Lay the hub aside in a cool place, and go get yourself a cool beverage. When you get back out to the garage, peek inside the hub and see if the race has dropped out. If not, a couple of light taps with a drift and small hammer will get it started.

 

Should this fail, weld a couple of short beads to connect some of the "dots". The shrinking of the fresh welds will contract the race and it will fall out.

 

No need to get excited about lots of heat and freezing to press in the new bearings. Chill the bering in the fridge and warm the hub with a heat gun. Work fairly quickly and it will be easy.

The NevRLubes are a sealed cartridge. Would this still work?

http://www.dexteraxle.com/inc/sdetail/780/32526

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carl,

 

My suggestion is for the bearings that fell apart, leaving the rollers loose. The welder trick is for when all you have is the outer race still in the hub.

 

I once had a bearing in a mower deck that my 20 ton press wouldn't budge. Did the welder trick, walked into the bathroom for a minute, and as I was walking back to the welding bench I heard a "clink". It was the race falling out of the hub.

 

I'm just up the road from you, bring 'em up. There's a jar of JW's hooch in the shop.......... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carl,

 

My suggestion is for the bearings that fell apart, leaving the rollers loose. The welder trick is for when all you have is the outer race still in the hub.

 

I once had a bearing in a mower deck that my 20 ton press wouldn't budge. Did the welder trick, walked into the bathroom for a minute, and as I was walking back to the welding bench I heard a "clink". It was the race falling out of the hub.

 

I'm just up the road from you, bring 'em up. There's a jar of JW's hooch in the shop.......... :D

Gotcha Rick. May take you up on the offer. Anyone in your area that could press out an intact bearing and press in two new ones? I would be interested in seeing the trick on the bad bearing. I'm beginning to see that Neverlubes, although a good idea, are a real problem from a service standpoint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been changing bearings in farm equipment for some time now. The drive hubs on a combine are many times the size, and expense of a trailer hub. I can't imagine these little things would be much trouble.

 

OTOH, I gotta admit, the mower spindles I mentioned were some of the worst I've ever done. POS John Deere riding mower.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try Rose Motor Supply in Hutch if they can't they might be able to direct you too who can

Thanks. Working on a solution with sclord2002 as we speak. DexterPartsOnline is located in his hometown (for the bearings) and he may have a shop that can re face the hubs and press in the bearings. Also a machinist close relative for the proper arbor. Isn't it great the friends we have made on this site that are willing to step in and help?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Almost burnt my rig when the bearing failed. Wife commented she has never seen me moved so fast with a fire extinguisher and work that sucker under the fifth. Luckily I saw it before the tire caught on fire. It re-ignited (dry extinguisher) but I had enough powder left to put it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here it is.

Brake%252520fire%2525202.jpg

 

Old and new.

Brake%252520fire%2525203.jpg

 

What caught on fire was the dust shield.

Brake%252520fire.jpg

 

Burnt the brake assy pretty good and almost chewed off the spindle.

Brake%252520fire%25252013.jpg

 

New Dexter assy on and the new drum. When I ordered the "replacement" dust shields they were no longer made out of plastic but stamped steel sheet metal. I would guess my "burn up" was not the first or last.

Brake%252520fire%25252010.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay update on progress. Received my new 50mm cartridges today and first thing I notice is CMC T508454 and CHINA stamped on the bearings. Immediately called Dexter as I did NOT want Chinese and was told Dexter sources their bearings from Timken and are manufactured in MEXICO or CHINA not France or Spain like previous. Dexter says their "quality control" tests assure that both sites meet their specifications. What the.....? Checked at eTrailer and their Redline product is the same Chinese bearing.

Anyway am meeting sclord2002 in South Carolina Monday to have new bearings pressed in.

Moral to this saga: 1. Nev-R-Lubes may prevent having to re-pack yearly but are a real PIA for competent replacement. 2. If you have Nev-R-Lubes would be in your best interest to carry a spare hub with bearing already pressed in in case of emergency. That cost is $350. I'll be carrying two. 3. If you lose one of these bearings might be a several day fix to get parts and service. I'm already $$ involved in this but if I buy another trailer think I'll take Lights advice and go with standard bearings. Think it would be much easier to find parts and fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...