Jim & Wilma

Our 50W panel measures 22” x 27”. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCDQKII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

We mounted a rigid 50W panel on top of the cab to keep batteries topped off during extended parking. Used VHB tape to secure mounting brackets. Works well and can’t see the panel from the ground.

Agree, I'd open it up and take a peek. Failed electrolytic capacitors, that I've come across, have usually been easy to spot by a bulge in an end or circumference. Replacement is easy.

You'd be way better off going to Sams and getting their GC2 golf car flooded lead acid batteries. Should be less than $100 each and they are made for deep discharge with large plates. Marine deep discharge batteries really don't compare. The GC2s will be 6 volts so you'll have to buy/wire them in pairs for 12 volt application.

I had similar problem at a threaded brass/pvc junction. Very frustrating. Determined brass thread was scoring small “channel” in the pvc. Replace both fittings and leak fixed. Good luck.

I’m a fan of the Anker product line of chargers. Only “issue” we had was they replaced our charger on a recall because some units had premature internal fuse blowing.

Jim, as I recall, I reached in as far as I could and cut the cable. I abandoned the old fan and remaining cable in place. I spliced an additional length of cable to reach the new fan.

Macerators I’ve seen have a rotating blade to break up the waste and a rubber impeller to move the waste. I can see how buildup of hair, plastic or such around the blade could stop the macerator rotation. I don’t see how an upstream blockage of waste would stall it. If it were me, I’d try reversing the macerator power wires In an effort to run it backwards and see if that frees it. It’s a long shot for sure. Good luck.

I’m with the retracted position to charge the spring. But I speak from no practical experience, only my theory. As Einstein was quoted, “In theory, practice and theory are the same. In practice, they’re not”.

The air bags are bolted top and bottom. We had a leak in one of the fittings and replaced the plastic fittings with brass fittings. Could have used shorter nipples, but if we have another leak, I'll be able to replace fittings without removing air bags. Remove the top bolts first and pivot the hitch up and hold in place with a rod or similar. Remove bottom bolts to remove air bags and access air fittings. Fairly easy to accomplish.

Smiles.

We’ll be pulling in Tuesday afternoon. Looking forward.

While we were at 9,000 ft this summer, the Smart had a very noticeable struggle moving again when I stopped on the ramps to fold the mirror in. The turbo had to spin up quite a bit to overcome. Not good for the clutch. No performance issue as long as I don't stop on the ramps.

The fan I used is Flex-A-Lite 394 S-Blade 14" . You have to remove both fenders and the front panel. There are YouTube videos describing how to remove them. It was pretty easy but helps if you have someone assist because panels are a bit long to single hand. See this post for some additional details:

Good luck and stay safe!

Maybe the attached will be of some help

We have the 8800L and it’s worked well for us.

When we lived in Florida and let the truck sit for more than a week, it was common for one or more brake shoes hanging up. Chalked it up to high humidity rusting/bonding metallic shoes to drum. Always broke loose when I’d put it in 1st.

Have you driven through any mud holes? I’ve had a small amount of mud on the inside of the wheel cause a very noticeable vibration.

Carl, we have Kodak 250 calipers that were installed at MorRyde. I’m not familiar with a recall notice. Did a quick Google search and nothing obvious popped up. Can you share the recall details.

Wilma and I look forward to seeing you and Sheri at Hutch.

Question for those of you that know the insurance business. With plan F discontinuing new enrollees soon, should we expect the premiums to accelerate faster than G as the F plan enrolled population ages.

Jim, you'll also need a Dish DPH-42 and associated power inserter for the standard LNBs to work with the Hopper 3. See Tom Hughes' (Zulu on the forum) diagram for connection details.

Travel Supreme built a very solid fifth wheel and Mark has maintained their TS exceptionally well, including repainting it a few years ago.

Our thanks also to Chad and Jen for all the planning and preparation that made this a most enjoyable rally. As newbies to WCR we certainly felt welcomed by all and we leave with the fondest memories. Safe travels to everyone.