Jim & Wilma

We had the 1443C plan which they called an PPO/EPO. We were very pleased with their network of providers. Since the out of state provider list didn’t differentiate between in/out network, interestingly we found we had better selection outside of Florida. Another thing I learned through this process was you’ll find the most attractive rates, if you can make your taxable income 150% of poverty level.

We had Fl Blue under ACA for a few years and used out of state docs almost exclusively. When you went out of state, you could use all of the BCBS providers under their BlueCard program. In network and out of network didn’t apply. See related FAQ out of state question. . . https://www.floridablue.com/members/tools-resources/faq-choosing-doctor-specialist-hospital If I were you, I’d call a Fl Blue agent to double check and verify it still applies.

These posts may be of help. Good luck Gene! https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/131790-smart-car-radiator-fan/?tab=comments#comment-951101 https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/131572-off-topic-cooling-fan-in-the-smart-car/?tab=comments#comment-947740

We have a Hydrastar actuator/pump operating Kodiak calipers. The actuator has worked well and without problems for 50,000 miles.

Agreed, and I respect, trust and learn more from the opinions on this forum than probably all the others combined.

Dave, Our first trip, when we went full time, was to MorRyde for their Independent Suspension system and hydraulic brakes. That was in 2017 modifying a 2006 fifth wheel. At the time, figured we were investing in an upgrade we planned on using for 10 years. The brake performance was very notably improved. The trailer could stop the truck if need be. The brakes haven’t been maintenance free in the past 50,000 miles; we had one of the Kodiak 250 calipers leak and another the piston froze. We carry a spare! I wouldn’t hesitate to change to hydraulic brakes again. The IS system is a bit harder for me to quantify the improvement. When we drive over a sizable bump, say backing up, it’s clear the independent suspension keeps the trailer from rocking at at all. We’ve had no significant issues with any of trailer contents being tossed around. From an engineering perspective/assessment, in my opinion, it’s worth the investment. When MorRyde installed the system, they added a 2” rectangular tube to the frame to increase the wheel well travel space. Obviously this also strengthened the structure, an additional benefit. I suspect you already have 17.5” wheels, that was our highest priority improvement in terms of safety. Safe travels and hope to see you again down the road.

I should have asked what system does F2 serve?

My guess is you have a poor connection upstream of those fuses limiting the voltage/current when F2 load is applied. However, if your windows are working normal with F2 pulled, makes me doubt my guess. What is F2 size & load? With F2 pulled, I’d measure the voltage at the fuse block when you operate the windows. If it drops significantly, it strengthens my guess. Good luck! edit note . . . looked at some 2013 Volvo schematics out of curiosity. Couldn’t find one with same fuse id’s but probably uses same controls. Appears the data bus is involved with the door controls so guess 2 would be F2 somehow plays a roll in causing the door data bus to be inoperative. More good luck!

Yep, if ours had failed, I’d have done the same and not thought twice. Somehow we drove cars in the old days without all the automatic “features” and survived. Not sure why the key removal lock “feature” even exists; suppose it’s to make sure transmission is in Park. I suspect you’ll be ok young man.

Marcel, More info . . . The engine usually does fire up for a second and then sputters. The batteries are under 2 years old. If I continue cranking for 5+ seconds, it fires up and runs well. I’m pretty sure it’s a fuel issue. Look at your radiator tanks for any cracking and material integrity. The top tank inlet tube of our radiator sheared off at the tank. It puts you on the shoulder pretty quickly! We could easily scratch the plastic tank material with your fingernail.

Appreciate the responses. Here's more details of what I'm seeing. Priming pump is part of the fuel filter housing on this and several Volvo engines I've seen. You depress plunger knob and rotate a quarter turn counterclockwise to release plunger. After after several pumps, it gets hard to continue depressing. While pumping, fuel appears to rise from the adjacent "vent". If its not suppose to leak fuel while pumping, which I wouldn't think so, I'll definitely replace it and possibly it'll also resolve losing the prime. If leaking is expected, then I'll probably take it to a shop that can run the clear tubing bubble tests.

We just started losing our fuel prime on our Volvo D13 after sitting for a day or so. Up until now, it could sit for weeks with no problem. Starts after using the manual prime pump. Question . . . for those of you that have used the manual prime, is the manual pump supposed to “leak” fuel when operated?

I'm guessing everything is ok and is working as it's designed. The Hayes I have is a sliding rheostat and without the brakes connected it'll have full voltage output but of course no current flow. When you plug in the connector, you'll complete the circuit and current should flow proportional to the Hayes lever position. Voltage will also vary with the voltage divided across the rheostat and the brakes, again proportional to the lever position.

Darryl, FWIW we plan to return to AK in ‘23 and expect we’ll be stopping at your place again in mid May. We found entering AK in early June helped beat the crowd.

Had to replace fan clutch on our ‘09 D13 when it didn’t come on. In mountain driving it now comes on around 210F and off around 190F. Cools the engine quickly. I’m told it will draw about 30hp +/- when engaged. Unless you’ve got the tunes turned way up, you’ll hear it engage.

Keep looking forward and “may the wind always be at your back.”

Yes. The way it works is when the electrical load is applied, it limits and ramps up current in a couple seconds. After than, the load and any subsequent loads on that circuit gets full current. Many a/c units start the fan motor first followed by the compressor motor. You have to wire the soft start into the compressor circuit, so just that load gets the reduced current at startup. If you wired the soft start upstream, to say two a/c units, only the fan of the first a/c to start would have reduced current and the subsequent compressor loads would start across the line with high inrush current.

We installed a soft start on one of our two A/C units to reduce inrush current when running on generator. It works well as advertised and we can start on one Honda 2000. However, we run both Honda’s because the load of our 15k BTU unit is usually greater than one generator can sustain. Our A/C running current is often 16+ amps which is more than one generator’s output. Running amps vary with ambient conditions and it’s possible to run our unit with one generator when the load is light but that’s not when we need it most.

Dave, I’m guessing the pinion gear, driven by the starter solenoid, is jamming before the teeth engage but enough to hold the starter contacts closed. Darryl, don’t see how a bad bendix would keep the starter spinning.

We don’t run tires past seven years. I’ve looked unsuccessfully for a tire inspection process that would allow an extension of service beyond seven years. For us it’s not worth the risk.

Not familiar with Outdoor account so can’t comment on that. Did you run the “Test Installation” function? Path: - Home button on remote - Menu tab - Settings - Diagnostics - Dish - Test Installation

Enjoyed the read . . . thanks for posting!

The DPH42 should do it. Winegard uses the "standard" WA DPP 1000.2 LNB and the Hopper requires the "hybrid" DPH LNBs. The DPH42 makes the signal conversion. You'll also get a power inserter which comes with the DPH42. The DPH42 has three coax inputs for the Winegard and one output coax. There's a good argument to install the DPH42 inside but that requires three cables. We didn't have the cables available and mounted the DPH42 on the roof where it's been working fine for the past few years. If you search this forum, you'll find more thorough explanations of the Winegard/Hopper 3 setup. Zulu in particular has been very helpful and has created several schematics.

We're 65' overall with a 37' fifth wheel. Our length goal was driven by an interest to get into as many locations as possible versus any concern with state length limits. We know lots of folks running much longer and don't recall anybody having been "talked to" by an LEO. If our usage requirements were to accommodate a family, I wouldn't be concerned going to 75'. Much beyond that would give us pause to make sure the requirements couldn't be otherwise satisfied.

When I replaced our cab air bags, I recall the top of the bag had a threaded stud that screwed into a nut welded inside a channel or rectangular tube. On one side, the welded nut released, what a hassle. Think I hacksawed the old bag off I ended up welding a nut to a small plate that fit within the channel which secured the nut from rotating. There was a slot/opening in the channel a few inches from the attachment point and I was able to slide the nut in using a wire or some such to guide it into position. Not much fun but it’s been 5+ years and still holding well. Good luck.