Deezl Smoke

For example. Walmart link to air hose for tire fill from semi truck

Ok, captain obvious here. I do not mean any disrespect, but I know I can do this, so.......are you sure you have the hose hooked to the red glad hand?

Recently I have been having great luck with the brand Tekton. Sockets, wrenches and allen keys. Have not bought ratchets or any other Tekton yet as I am well stocked on most all tools, but like to have certain tools that I use remotely at that location so I dont have to carry tools so far. I like 6 point sockets, and 12 point combo wrenches. The sockets, when used on a decent high tooth count ratchet, can pretty much never get stuck between points, so 6 point works. The box end of a wrench however, 50% of the time, in limited wrenching space, the 6 point wont work. I've had many times that even flipping the wrench over, still would not fit, but the 12 point box end did. So that's my opinion and why. Todays fastener manufacturing tolerances seem to be quite variable. Even a good 6 point might have issues in some situations. At the farm for a few years we had a snapon "Mr.Big" tool cart full of snapon and bluepoint tools. We bought it used from a lift truck mechanic that retired. In short order, we noticed our tendency to go right past the snapons to our SK and old Craftsman tools. The snapon wrenches are too thin for general use by the shadetree and hurt the hand when pulling hard on them. The ratchets suck as the handle are polished smooth and when wet, greasy, or just plain dirty, the hand would slip and knuckles would bleed. The SK ratchets have knurled handles and our older SK and Craftsman wrenches are much thicker in the handle area. Yes, thicker around the box end and some around the open end, but they can be pulled on much more comfy. So the snapon Mr.Gig was sold off to a neighbor that uses it for status show.

Hey, rv ED, if you're still with us, I just talked with jackson group Peterbilt here in Portland Oregon. They have, but are not listed just yet, a couple Cascadias with the tag axle system. The front drive axle is the drive, and the rear is the tag. If I'm not mistaken, the tag is like the volvo system where it is activated when the load hits a preset weight, otherwise it stays up. That system is setup just how you would have it. No need to do anything. You could consider the tag axle a spare tire holder. I'll let'cha know when/if they get back to me.

I own a small 20 acre piece in Christmas Valley. 31 is not doing well, but all the small highways over there are in good condition.

Oh how easy it would be, and how bad I want to, but I shall refrain from taking this to the political dark side.😂 It seems that with so many exiting certain states and moving to certain states, the infrastructure is difficult to keep up when labor and approvals are in short supply. Here, in the Portland Oregon area, we have studded tire grooves deep enough to loose a smart car.

Just an idea, but if you dont need it right away, see if you can have it stored until the salt is washed off of the road. ?

"Typically", not absolutely, but typically in a mobile 12 volt dc system, black is ground. LED lights need a different testing procedure than incandescent. Incandescent will have continuity both directions so it does not matter which way you hook the test leads. LED is a one way diode, so the test leads will have to be oriented in the correct direction. It will take someone with way more knowledge and experience than I to confirm or deny what I'm about to say, but.... So the fact that your dash tells you there is an issue with a headlight, the light circuit goes through the ECM. "I've heard..."🙄 that improper draw, and/or any corrosion even at the ecm pins, can trigger a code like you are experiencing. So even though you have power at the light plug, does not mean you have the correct voltage or correct amperage when hooked up, to satisfy the ecm. IMO. Someone please confirm or deny this. I would, in the mean time, go to the ecm and carefully check for corrosion at the multi-pin connections, or a sunken pin etc.

HDT owner here. Just signed on with Coach-net last month. I bought the whole shebang, which includes the tire hazard policy. In Oregon, $229 for roadside, and $510 for hazard protect if you buy both at the same time. $249 for roadside alone. Annual. In Oregon. I've been an Escapee forum member for several years, and just re-newed my club membership after a few years absence. So I have read several forum threads over the years talking about the various roadside programs. I've also talked to my insurance companies about towing coverage, but fewer and fewer are offering towing anymore. AAA is usually the company my insurance agents recommend from their personal experiences, but they are for cars, not HD trucks. I tried AAA, no go. They will not cover my truck, even though it is titled and registered as an RV and has no commercial aspects nor capacities. I tried Goodsham. No go. They refused coverage as well. I looked into a couple others based on online mentions elsewhere, but found no mention of HD truck assistance on their sites, so did not bother. Finally made the call to Coach-net last november, and Jennifer (the rep I ended up with) was very helpful and pleasant to talk with. It took some time and I did have to send pictures of the truck, but Jennifer's did ok the sale and I did not have to send a copy of the title. I told her I would review the fine print of the email she was sending, and would get back to her in January as I have that little quirk, I like my billing cycles to be at or near the first of the year. When I called to buy, Jennifer was still working there and I bought the policy. I truly hope the need never arises to find out how good or bad they handle things. So this is an open forum, and I am going to just state MY OPINION here. I am an upbeat, mostly positive sort as I do not watch the news, podcasts, movies, facebook etc., or any of the other media. But it is my OPINION that society today, especially here in America has accepted abuse of services as a normal practice today. This, coupled with the disconnect that most all administrations have today with their customer base, and accepted viewpoint that every action must turn a dollar now, is why we will see the general situation described in the opening description more often.

"New to us" in the PNW. Likely, you purchased a rig that has had well water in the tanks for long periods of time.

I think it is a great idea. That combo likely has a DT-12 trans. It is a great system for what you wish to do. What brake system are you going to install? Do you have a hitch brand and model in mind?

Keep using the Pittsburgh and dont let the engine idle any more than absolutely needed. Any pictures?

Long shot from a shadetree that don't really know much, but can you test each battery separately for a weak or potential compromised cell?

Last november I made several calls to find towing for my rig. Read several threads here over the years about Coachnet and others. Allstate no longer insures rvs, but I think they still offer the roadside service for the annual fee just over a hunnerd bucks. Called good sam and immediately was told no. I stress to you, the word "modified" is a huge trigger word. Changed, modified, altered, custom,or any other descriptive word that indicates not factory, is a nogo. Called Coach-net. Very nice people vs sams, but they needed pictures and brand name of the "coach" that was "professionally installed on the frame". It was indicated that they would not accept any sort of home made coach or diy box that was fastened by the owner in their driveway. When asked for my vin#, I was quick to ad that I would email a copy of the title showing the MH status, and that all rvs start life as major brand chassis, then the rv coach is added over it. Jennifer, said she had to get confirmation that my rig was acceptable. She called my back in less than 30 minutes and said yes, that Summit is a factory body manufacturer, and since I had a fab shop install it, it met the criteria. 😲 So,.......I have paid for my annual Coach-net policy, "they" say I am covered. But,.......I just hope I never have to make them prove it. IMO, the politicovid debacle and professional homelessness, has forced a lot of changes in all aspects of the rv industry and rv service providers. One used to be able to hold proud the title of "full timer" as it would show one's ability to "travel" full time in retirement. (regardless of age) Today, like so many career choices, that title has gone 180.🤬

Pretty much the same scenario here. Went from Schaeffer to TRC red. Then a few years ago, my local Amsoil dealer give a tube of this synthetic polymer grease. Now run it exclusively. The TRC was great, but the tech has'nt really updated for a very long time. Our swathers run the sickle head in the morning dew water. I just pushed the Amsoil right in over the TRC without issue. I dont wash our combines unless absolutely needed, and even then avoid the bearing with the pressure washer as 99% of them are just shielded bearings, not sealed. Seems to keep the non-relubes happy longer. If you ever get the want to try a new grease, see if your local Amsoil dealer will give you a tube and try it in like the reel bushings or other areas, and see what you think. I'd be curious to know anyway.

My rv policy with PEMCO just came up and was near $1700 annual. High limit, actual cash value. $1,000 comp col deductables. I went shopping, and found my very same independent agent is also a premier Progressive agency. I priced, same limits and deducts etc., down to $1088 annual. This is in western Oregon and for a 2021 custom Peterbilt. My "commercial" policy I had on my low gvwr T plated truck was over $1,000 annual for just liability. In my area, "commercial" is not an option that I would consider for an rv with an rv trailer. There are so many gray areas in the fine print. I've never even been in an accident, and have'nt had a ticket since 1983. My new Progressive policy does ask the approximate days in a year that I expect to drive it, and I can not live in it. So there are variables to consider when pricing policies including if you had a claim in a commercial policy and they found you were living in the trailer.

It's on the very same rails that you put it on.

I just look them in the eye and give a big smile, then change the subject. Leaves it on their mind for a very time. It's a void in their thoughts that they can't fill until someone answers. I love leaving them in suspense.

2008 KW T2000 in Oklahoma on a truck lot for sale. Quite a machine. Just curious is all if not a member's rig, maybe someone knows a story behind it. Most all custom rigs like this have a "story".

These are not for the smart, but since discount ramps is in the title, these are for my polaris 1000 touring. Love the ramps. 12'. I could've went with 10' for the quad easily. May even have got by with 8' which would be lighter in weight to lift, but I prefer the stability of the low angle over the few pounds saving. Link to the ramp on discount's site. Purchase time was late september 2022. In stock. Great experience with Discount ramps.

Yes. CDL is federal, not state. It applies to "COMMERCIAL" use. Some states, may require an "air brake" endorsement or other endorsements, but not all states. On this site...Justdownsize, (that is an https site) it says Nevada requires a "special license for vehicle over 26k/lbs. But not a CDL.

Got the check engine fixed under Cummins warranty. Had the jake setting changed so it's like old school where you dont have to hit the service brake to engage it. My new ramps showed up from Discount ramps to load my Polaris. Maybe I'll get a chance to go on a shake down trip this year some time.

I think that is a Harbor Freight caster and likely rated around 25lbs, give or take about 24lbs. If it says DOT on the wheel, That does'nt mean Dept Of Transportation, it means Departure Of Trailer. I think I saw a run-flat version of those somewhere.

Git it. Forgot about the diff vents. Mine will never be in deep water etc., but hauling near vertical is my conundrum. I would think that as long as I let the rig set for a few minutes horizontal after unloading, the oils and fluids should normalize. But since it does'nt seem to be a common method of transport, finding the issues before I try it, is not very easy.

I have been trying to find info on what the issues might be hauling a fuel injected sidexside or other motorcycle etc., vertically. So far no real luck getting information. Called the local dealer and asked the service dept., but they had not heard of this and would not commit an answer. I think if one can turn off the gas at the tank and let a carburetor engine run dry, and make sure the tank cap is above the gas tank level, one should be able to do this. The batteries are most all sealed now days, and the coolant systems are sealed well enough to be pressurized. The engine oil systems are mostly sealed to prevent water infiltration, of close to it. So what issues might you think of with hauling a machine vertical? Be it front up or back up? I did find this thumbnail pic on youtube, but nothing about it in the video. I screenshot the pic and cropped it.