Deezl Smoke

Scroll through this site. https://www.victronenergy.com/ See if you can find a component that fits your need. What you want to do is completely doable and has been done, so somewhere there is a component that can self direct and cancel circuits when you start the gen or prime mover engine.

And unfortunately they are usually the most vocal anti-solar people after their fail.

What will the solar "transfer" to/from? Shore power hook up? Generator? Then yes, a switch would be needed. Otherwise no. So long as you understand, and I'm guess you do by your statements about shunts, fuses etc., that the panel input is with in the perimeters of the charge controller, or vice-versa, then the charge controller is that simple. Expensive and elaborate systems may include a charge controller that has several bells and whistles, and inverters that have their own set of bells and whistles. But since you mention simple, panels input to the charge controller, which steps down the voltages and conditions the output to the batteries, batteries. That's it. Hook your inverter to the batteries, can be on the same terminals as the charge controller, and plug stuff in. IMO. Example: I do not have room in my small rental house to have exercise eq, so I bought a semi trailer and put it in the farm barn that has no other use as it was once a dairy barn built for cows with no other usage intended at the time of build. There is no longer any power at the barn as the cows have long gone. So I put up a cheap hft 100 watt panel system with an hft pwm charge controller, 2 used group 31 truck batteries and a hft inverter. I run my led lights and stepper which has a computer. Been this way for years with not one issue. Inverter is attached to the same battery posts as the charge controller. The simplest system you can put together. Now if I need to use a generator to charge the batteries because I spent too much time with the lights on, (painting or rearranging eq) then I turn off the controller and inverter to charge the batteries. Works great for me.

Are you selling the truck or just using it temporarily for your own use with the commercial? It's a tough question to answer online. But, IMO, if the used bolts are installed correctly, the chances of bolt failure are so low I doubt the odds can even be calculated. IMO.

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I understand where packnrat is coming from. Drugs are everywhere. The most common reply when people are victimized is "but I did'nt think they were in MY neighborhood".🤬 There are statistics somewhere of the percentage of burglaries and break ins that are opportunistic vs. professional, but I'm going to swag that 99 of 100 are opportunist drug addicts going for easy grabs. Laptop on a table, or power tools in the garage etc. Whatever they can carry out and pawn. If you can make your home or garage just a small bit more difficult to get into than your neighbor, you will likely be spared, at least for a while. Once all the neighbors are broken into, and they out do your security, then it's your turn. Even if the windows have metal bars and the doors are "secured" with a metal bar outer door, any mass produced rv can be entered with a good hunting knife or basic hatchet. So the conundrum for discussion with your friends then becomes, do I attempt to secure the windows and doors and come back to a wall cut open, or put a wallet with fake cash and cards on the counter by the sink and a broken drill/driver on the floor in the corner, or.......? Everyone will react different to being victimized. To some, it's just another insurance claim. To others it's personal. Neither has the right to condemn the other for their perspective.

You wont see any difference in 10psi or even 20 ninety percent of the time.I'd like to say running 95psi is fine, but that would not be a good thing to say online as it may be taken as advice, which it is not. I do however use your same thought process on that topic and have had no issues for many, many years and miles. Darryl&Rita have great advice above. Toe. Some shops, and I don't know anything about the shop your truck has been to, may put too much toe "IN" to compensate for another axle alignment issue to keep the truck driving straight. But worn, or damaged tie rod ends can allow this too. I've also learned that road conditions can cause uneven wear if you spend a lot of time on roads that have grooves worn in from studded car tires at standard car or automobile width. Though much of the time this sort of wear can be confirmed by wear patterns on the drive tires. For the wear to be so noticeable in such short time, if it's an alignment issue I'd bet you can measure the toe yourself with a tape measure. With 40" truck tires, you should'nt be too awful much over about 1/2 to 3/4". But consult official specs to confirm or deny that. In the mean time if you enjoy youtube university for repair instruction and ideas, here's a youtube link to a channel called "Bendin with Bendon". This guy does some awesome work on semi chassis and axles, including a lot of alignments.

It really does "depend" on so many variables. In general, todays batteries, of any reasonable quality anyway, seem quite tolerant of temperatures and vibrations etc. But it seems today's sealed lead acids don't care so much for overcharging nor over discharging. IMO anyway. If your alternator on the truck has issues, it will shorten the life of the average lead acid. If you store the truck without a maintainer the parasitic draw of the ecm and other computer memories will draw the batteries to a full and complete discharge. This too seems to shorten the lifespan of the lead acids. In my experience here on the farm with various machinery that uses similar battery setups of a truck, the batteries seem to last longer if they get used. For example we had a field sprayer years ago that actually abused the battery system quite badly, but that sprayer had the same 20 year old battery on it when it left the farm as it did when we built it. Then our combines only get used for about 10 days within a 3 week period each year, and those group 31s only last 3 years if we're lucky. Granted the combines are stored where there is no power, so we have to start the engines and run them at high idle an hour or two every now and then during the winter, but that theme of use vs. sitting seems to hold true in general here.

Yes. Running these on higher settings will keep them cleaner and fewer failures. Though I'm not heating a large coach area, I have an Espar diesel heater in the truck sleeper and love it. After watching dozens of videos on various brands, countries of origin etc. one thing remained common, the fuel pump noise. Sure enough, even though the little fuel pump is outside the sleeper, it is what regulates the temp, and it makes the clicking noises so often mentioned in videos and other written reviews. So fuel pump location and sound control are important. The combustion exhaust noise is not all that bad even without the so named "muffler" that you are supposed to install in the combustion exhaust piping. IMO, Webasto or Espar both seem to be regarded as quality units. I'd go with the brand that you can get serviced locally to your home or domicile. Class B rvs seem to use these a lot. I have one still in the box that I purchased from a local B conversion company. It's said to be the same quality as an Espar, but branded generic, so.... If I install it in the toyhauler box, I'll see how long it lasts. But even the company I bought it from here locally asked what size space I wanted to heat and suggested using the smaller btu unit and running on higher settings to avoid soot build up and eventual failure. FWIW.

Then good quality 16ga is plenty heavy. If you can find real copper rather than copper coated, it is worth the extra money IMO. Heat shrink the connections if you can.

So I don't know about Alaska, but Oregon, and I believe Idaho have "trip permits" They are for this type of situation. A small fee is paid for a few days of leniency. I had to purchase one in Oregon to use my former RV truck to tow a hopper bottom grain trailer home. I bought the permit at DMV for I think $15 back then, and it gave me 3-5 days depending on weekends, of time. Here's a link to Oregon's permit law. https://oregon.public.law/statutes/ors_803.600 Maybe it will give you some ideas. A lot of this stuff is a grey area up to the trooper on duty. Usually, if you have made an effort to be legal, you can rely on the trooper to be fair and even give you some further instruction for future use. Depending on your insurance policy language, most of the time the towed unit is covered automatically for liability. But you have to verify that with your own insurer. Comp and collision are a separate item.

🤣 I fully understand your frustration at the topic. I have a friend that virtually would tow a machine shop with him. You know, in case he has to forge and turn a new piston at the side of the road.......lol But kidding aside, I honestly believe this to be the environment one grows up in. I for instance, grew up on, and still am, a farmer. We carry parts. It's just the way things are. Loggers, truckers, fishing boats, etc., grow up in a tradition that was cast from need, of carrying parts and knowing how to use tools. As time rolls on and cell phones, the www., and all kinds of roadside programs come about, that habit, or tradition, or....whatever one wishes to call it, just sticks. It brings a piece of mind to many. Budget also plays a huge roll, as does priority. Thankfully, so far anyway, many of us still have the luxury of being independent, and form our own opinions and make our own priorities. So though to some even a top off gallon of engine oil may seem a waste of time and space, to others that spare ecm, tire, alternator, belts, and whatever else, is a priority over something else like having a spare bedroom in case the kids come home or on a trip with them. When I had my 2005 Pete, with 1.9 million on the clock, I carried a few more parts than I do today with my 2021 Pete. My method for condoning my madness is through experience, can I fix it faster and/or with less inconvenience, than waiting for the roadside company to get there. If I break and axle, no. If the serpentine belt shreds and does'nt take the whole front periphery with it, yes.

Most ecm's will need perimeters installed. But it's still better to have, rather can be better to have, the ecm that can be programmed, rather than no ecm available. A lot of techs have the capacity to do the programming, or even the instal, but they all need an ecm that is in good repair to do so. Amazon is awesome. The things one can find today.....amazing. Then the need to find a place on the rig for said storage. ECM's are rugged as they mount in a very inhospitable location. But they don't like being dropped or having heavy items layed on the connector inserts. That feeling you get when you know you have the part you need because you thought ahead, only to find it broken when you retrieve it for the need.............

Oh geez.....ya had to bring up that nightmare.😁 No matter where you were, the engine just up and died without warning. Crossing a rr track, middle of a major intersection, no matter.

It's a heck of a conundrum. Even if you do not have the skills needed nor the tools to replace an ecm, you can hire them. But if your rig is of the age and models that ecm availability is scarce, or worse, then maybe it would be a good idea if you plan to keep the rig for some time. If one does possess a spare ecm then comes the issue of how to store it proper. It'll need to be kept clean and dry, in a place that it will not likely get dropped, or something dropped on it. Might even be a good idea to have it installed on the engine to make sure it works proper for your engine setup before storing it. Most of us keep belts, and other spare parts in the box. Funny thing is, the majority of the parts we all keep on hand, are parts that are available anywhere. So,......an ecm is something to consider. Just need to think about it a bit before the investment.

I fully understand. We had a IH 503 with a swamp cooler, a JD 105 with a fan, and when an uncle passed, we ended up with his JD 55 square back with no cab. The 55 was my choice. Unfortunately it is that choice that is the reason for so many trips to the dermatologist. But in my area of nw Oregon, we have very low humidity in the summer months and no cab with a breeze is cooler than a cab with no ac.

Yes, though it is getting more and more difficult to have those conversations even with your own age. Modern first world societies push the formation of groups by political ID. Don't support my views?,...you're a ****ist, or a ***ot etc. So ya, people may click on a thread, see the direction it's heading and leave. This creates a view on the counter. Go have a view of my thread in the HDT page "Opinions on deleted emissions for rv", and you'll see the division I describe above. Back in the late 90s and early 2ks, I used to belong to, and participate heavily on a couple agriculture forums. As time went on and technology afforded taking your internet connection with you in your pocket, the tolerance for differing opinions started to become less and less. Facebook came about and one could just watch by the month the further division of groups with differing opinions on every topic, from tillage vs. notill, to what church you go to. Now that the people are addicted to instant viewing and posting, censorship and monitoring of any/all media has become a way of controlling information and forcing certain narratives. This is just part of the process that can not be avoided when humans are involved.

👍 I'll go along with that. Sure makes modern life a lot easier. I respect those old truckers and other machine operators that had a cab for the winter, but no ac for the summer.

I saw those videos a while back when I started following Edison motors up in Canada. Very cool system actually. Last I recall they were working on ways to swap out the batteries without using a forklift.

No, probably not. At least not from behind the keyboard. I don't know who is "bashing" california.? My comments were in no way "bashing", ( they were not presented from my perspective as bashing) because in my locality, and age group, it is, always has been, and will be going forward, totally acceptable practice to poke fun at politics in any and all states and countries,...including our own. The way it works, and will only get worse over time, is people will be "triggered" or "offended" about all topics. Some about states they are fond of. Some about emissions. Some about religion. Some about.........you name it, it will be offensive to someone. Then, those groups of people will block or ignore etc., each other, and because today it is acceptable and even promoted, those groups will go on hate campaigns trying to get other groups on board with their own perspectives. You can't stop it. It's history repeating itself.....again. Before telephones, and then cell phones. Before the internet, and global instant communication, we pretty much just had our local peoples that socialized together. When a new comer came along, they brought with them aspects of a different culture. Thing is, several locals also came from that area some time back, so acceptance was had, and in time, the new comers would learn how things were locally and fit in. Sometimes this was a slow process, other times it went quickly. But it just normal procedure then, to recognize that different views and perspectives existed, and should be respected. Today,....not so much.

Sound like we are felling the same pain. My thinking is to go alternating current on the compressor just for the amp draw you mention. Raise the voltage, lower the amperage. I currently have a 3500 watt inverter generator, but would like to learn more about the newer 5k from Predator. Ideally it would nice to find an affordable compact diesel, but in your case, the weight consequence might be prohibitive. They put a 270 amp alternator on my rig. I'm still working on the math with an engineer to see how close to a farse these "green" electric apus are. That 270-300 amp alternator takes a lot of power, aka fuel, to charge 8 depleted batteries.

Yep, been reading on truckers report for some time. Does appear though that a lot of the issues with ISX did have some notification that a problem was brewing, just not everyone understood that new symptom as a potential catastrophe.

Obviously you are quite familiar then with ac systems. ! ? So here's what I'm think'n if you care to have a listen. On Peterbilt anyway you have one condenser out front of the radiator, two evaporators (one under cab, one under sleeper bunk), two expansion valves(one for cab, one for sleeper), one receiver/dryer, and one compressor. The feed lines to the sleeper are just tee'd into the main lines, both hot and cold. If I were to then "tee" a second compressor (electric) into the system, and plumb a second condenser (sized right for system) with an electric fan, can I run with the prime mover engine off, and a generator powered up? I'd need 12vdc for the bunk and dash fans, which I have. And if I use a soft start motorized compressor, I should be able to run it on an inverter generator along with the condenser fan. Do you see any obvious issues with this?

If believing that makes you feel better.

Yep, things are different now dayz. They used to put emissions on engines that were'nt designed for them, now they design the engine for emissions. My last Cat was an MXS prefix. 550. So easy to drive. This X15 E Cummins is governed,....yes governed at 1,700rpm. Does'nt just curve out at 1,700, but electronically governed at 1,700. Must less friendly to drive. But, so far, even though I'm still working on the mpg, it is far better than the Acert Cat.