Deezl Smoke

10 seconds is way too long. So when you turn the key to the on position, do you let the system diagnostics run through it's routine before turning to the start position? For example, in the farm prostar/maxxfarce, and my Pete Cummins X15, I turn the key to the on position and listen for all of the clicking and air purges to stop before turning the start position. This can take up to about 4 seconds. Then, turn to start and either engine will fire within about 3-4 revolutions.

I found that product I was looking for. It's called the Robson drive.

I have the smart-air. Not a good system. The ac is very weak and it even states in the manual to cool the truck with the prime mover first, then use the smart air to help maintain the temp. So it is really only a temp reducer, not much of an ac. ET transport brings in some good info on choosing an apu. You likely already have plans for a system of your own design, but if you want to see some numbers for added info, here's a youtube video from ET on the subject. Ya, I know they have something worked out between them, but the dollar figures were fun to see.

Just a quick reminder in general that I am in no way claiming to be a mechanic or engineer or.......I can only offer personal experience and/or opinions. There. I'm sorry that we have to give these blasted disclaimers all the time anymore, but tizwutiz. This is a link to a youtube video of a very well known and respected "certified" Caterpillar mechanic/technician, explaining engine oil and fuel filter pre-filling. It's about 8.6 minutes long. In it Josh discusses his rational behind prefills and no prefills. He even mentions conflicting procedures within the same repair or maintenance. He also mentions as has been mentioned here in this thread prefilling for rebuilds or long term setting etc. It's well worth the watch even if it conflicts with one's line of thought, just to gain further knowledge. Here's another video from the same author. It's almost 13 minutes long, but it goes in depth about the "bypass filter" systems that were also passively mentioned here in this thread. My chosen career path, farming, and my location, nw Oregon, has surrounded me with all sorts of engineers. From fresh out of skule to long retired. One constant complaint among the engineers is the continuous compromises that have to be made. This is in all aspects of engineering. From structures (civil) to power generation (mechanical and electrical) to computer (software and all that). Pretty much 99.9% of all things engineered is for some sort of sale. Even the USACE put together massive scale projects that are for sale. It is the constant compromises and conflicting designs etc., that drive me (only me, no-one else) to need factory (cya) info confirmed or denied by other sources.

Another Peterbilt 5 series member. 👍 Paccar, Cummins? Automated? Does it have the Smart-air apu?

Typically,......😵 if an action is imperative, a warning, then bold lettering stating the consequence if the action is not followed. Similar to the warning in the manual above, stating not to over tighten the filter or... I usually figure the rest are suggestions, not required. Note in the manual above, it does not tell you "how" to properly fill the filter.

But it makes good youtube.🚛

Myth: floating gears (no clutch to shift) in a manual trans is hard on it. This mainly stems from the automotive industry I think that uses synchronized meshing of gear teeth. Floating synchro-mesh is in fact a no-no, but the non synchro straight cutters of the hd truck, floating has no adverse affects. IMO of course.

Back like 30 years ago or so, it was feasible and somewhat cost effective to "rebuild" a car or pu engine, any major repair done, like say rolling in new rods and mains, or in the sbc the cam would go flat, you would just install a new cam and lifters. Then, you would pull the distributor.......ya, remember those days, and take an old distributor shaft on a drill motor and run the oil pump to prime the system before firing. One good thing about these computer controlled engines today is many of them need to sense oil pressure (among other things) before they will fire off. My old mechanical Cummins 855 will fire in one revolution, where my 2021 Cummins X15 takes a bit of cranking. It would fire in less than a rev if it didn't have the safety features. I just find it fun to see all the interesting technology over the years. An old VW with no more than a cleanable screen to micron rated filter and only factory approved oils with additive packages that meet just that factory's specs.

Anyone ever change the engine oil in an old VW bug?

I certainly do not blame you for that.

I'll refrain from comment on how smart the engine designers today are. But the 6.7 cummins is a vertical filter that is easy to replace when full. Another aspect of the "myth" is the part about how to pre-fill the filter. Adept Ape on youtube has a great video explaining the proper way to prefill a filter with engine oil. The ones I prefill, I do so from a freshly opened oil container. Years ago, we used to buy our farm oils in 55 gallon drums and use a pump to fill a gravity can, then to the engine. Knowing what I think I know now, I would not prefill a filter using a gravity can. But every one will have their own ideas on that. I respect that.

I'm neutral on the filter filling. I do it on the convenient vertical oriented ones so long as I can do it in the shop and not have to deal with a lot of obstacles trying to get it started on the filter boss. Do you remember the "cartridge" filters before the encasement? Looked like a toilet paper roll could be used. Or how about the old "lube refiner" on the cab side of the old trucks? I recall reading or watching,....no, had to be watching as I cain't read for "%&p, some footage about the oils today being formulated specifically for that cold start up second or two. The oil has to be able to bond or film the metal in such a way as to provide the needed lubrication until pressure can feed it.

The older I get, the less I care what others think. I wish I were the one to "invent" bottled water. I remember when it first caught on and the heated debates about it. Things like, the filters took all the good stuff out if it. Or, the chlorine and fluoride will give you cancer. I'll keep my well water thanks etc., etc. And I mean some got really heated, even ending friendships because one bought bottled water with their own money but it was against the other's trained line of thinking. One of my best friends today still has that trained thought process of tradition. He gets upset when I buy a new bike or something when I already have several. I love him anyway, I just make new notification sounds for my phone so when he sends a text, it comes in as "bitter curmudgeon" or the like. It seems anymore that no-one wants to be confident enough in their own thoughts on a topic, that they have to force their thoughts on it until the others comply. It's like the old ford, gm, dodge debate. Another "myth?" is about pre-filling your oil filters before installation. Some say you have to, others say never as it sends foreign particles into the engine before the filter. Others show how to properly fill the filter by plugging the center (post filtration) hole and filling through the filter inlet holes.

LOL.🤣 Now, if that block of wood had a shaft through the center and mounted to the frame, then, there would be at least a hint of possibility. I wish I could find the video of a device that can work. It is air operated to put pressure on the tires, and is a metal wheel with bars that can indent into the tire. I don't recall if it were a item for sale, or if it were just built to prove a concept.

You already know the reputation of the maxxforce, so.... If it's singled and your only concern is weight, you can install a lower rating, single tire, pusher/tag axle that can fit in an amazing small area, especially since it would not have to be raise and lowerable. Just installed and tee'd into the air system. ? There is nothing wrong with the prostar truck, only that engine. Unless you get some sort of warranty with any truck that you purchase as a replacement, you may just be buying a whole new money pit. Las Vegas?

🍿🍺 I forgot all about this one. 👍

Another "myth" is that auto-shift, or automated shift is automatic.

Boys!....play nice!! Don't make me stop this rig.🤭

The Hitch hiker is old school real construction as I recall? I don't know that you have to go to an rv specific for repair of that construction. I'd ask around about ma/pa remodelers local to your stay. Some of those folks can do wonders, especially if your Hitch hiker is as I remember them to be, actual lumber construction. Probably depends on the vintage year of your coach.

Could there be a trim option package? The 550 that a neighbor parks here with his 30' PJ from time to time, is way more upright than any 150 I've sat in. Though, that number is quite low. But the general point I attempted is that given similar year models between a 350 and an HDT, they both will have DEF, SCR, DPF etc. emission. The comfort gain for the low tow miles, vs. the compromises made for the considerably higher daily starts and stops etc., seems a little on the harsh side. The PU engines and emissions, though still made for longer travels, can get up to temp much faster than the HDT, and as such the potential for expensive maintenance input seems less. But again, this is just my opinion, which is worth exact amount paid.

So personally, and I do not pull a 5er, but have driven truck of several combinations, at 4-6 hours every few weeks, I would just stick with the 350, or maybe move up to a 450 or 550. I like to promote the HDT tow genre but in your listed time frame on the road and trip lengths, I'd stick with the PU style tow vehicle, at least till your distance traveled changes. By moving up in frame size like a 550, you get larger tire diameters, and, you can even run 22.5 low profile semi tires if you wish. This will help lower the bump transfer up through to the seat. The larger frames are made for "hot shot" commercial load hauling and will have a bit more ergonomic cabin and seat combo. Small changes make a big difference IMO. You can order that 2-3' longer wb in the 550ish chassis to even better smooth out the ride and still get around town. I fear that with only a 2 ton hitch weight, and lots of daily trips, going to the HDT as a get around rig will sour your experience. I'd rather see people happy with a 450-550 than try and fail at a HDT and then answer questions about their experience, though honest, deter someone that can better utilize the HDT. IMO.

🤣

No part numbers. But any hose you get, unless it's in a sealed bag, be sure to blow air through it before installation to remove any cutting and pressing debris. Depending upon what type of ends Volvo uses, do not use any sort of sealing paste or tape unless it is a pipe thread fitting. IMO.

Ya hit that nail square on.👍 Older folks came up without technology, and as such can mostly find a way around when tech fails. Younger folks have not had that luxury. They are brought into technology from the start.