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hemsteadc

m2-106 replace batteries

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Take a good photo, label the wires and pre-buy your new batteries. That way you can layout the new batteries in the same configuration as your old batteries and replace them in order. I would disconnect the negative grounds to the truck to start with and make that connection your last going back in with the new batteries. It will take another trip to the store to get you core charge back on the batteries but will save you a ton of frustration in some cases.

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My concern is the weight of these things and what appears to be a minimum amount of clearance to get them out.  It looks like a back-breaker to be reaching in there and trying to lift..what.. 60 pounds?

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Buy a couple of battery carrier straps. They come in several different styles and will allow you to lift straight up. You do have to be physically capable of lifting them or use an engine lift, chain hoist or similar to get them out. If you are unsure about doing the job, hire someone to replace them for you.

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Yeah, that's why I'm seriously thinking about having a shop  do it.  It looks like very little clearance to lift straight up, and having to reach in there ain't gonna do my back any good.  Looking for a Lithium replacement.

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5 hours ago, hemsteadc said:

Yeah, that's why I'm seriously thinking about having a shop  do it.  It looks like very little clearance to lift straight up, and having to reach in there ain't gonna do my back any good.  Looking for a Lithium replacement.

There is no point in spending money on a Lithium battery for an MDT chassis battery IMHO.  Your alternator will not charge them properly and will most likely harm them over time.  It is much better to stick with a standard battery for this application.  If you were talking house batteries in your RV, then I would be right there with you (as long as you have the proper charging and monitoring for them).  For a starter type battery that does some double duty to run things in the cab of the truck, there is no real benefit in going with lithium.  

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20 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

There is no point in spending money on a Lithium battery for an MDT chassis battery IMHO.  Your alternator will not charge them properly and will most likely harm them over time.   

After a bit of research I have to agree.  No suitable replacement. 

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We have a M2 service truck on the farm. I just swapped out the batteries. It was not a big deal. I have a catch in my back so I sit on a stool for most things that I have to bend over for. But really if you took it to a shop don't go to a dealer. Just go to a normal auto shop. You will save hundreds of dollars.

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I'm having trouble in the Palm Springs area finding any mechanic who's ever changed out batteries in this truck. I guess it isn't a highly technical job, but I'd prefer someone who doesn't have to be told which batteries to get and freak out about the fuse-holder assembly on the + terminals.  I'm not ruling out doing the job myself as I can probably find someone to pull the batteries for me.  They come with plastic lift handles.

My batteries are holding at 12.5 which isn't too bad, but it worries me how it strains to start.

Edited by hemsteadc

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First find a mechanic that can load test EACH battery.  They may be fine, and just a bad/rusted/corroded connection is making it sluggish.  Also, could be starter.

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On 1/17/2019 at 9:58 AM, hemsteadc said:

My concern is the weight of these things and what appears to be a minimum amount of clearance to get them out.

You haven't mentioned but I'm assuming you have custom truck. I to have your concern with a Sports Chassis. I haven't done the measurement s but the closest space may require dropping the step. Definitely I would want an insulted material to cover the Battery post before trying to lift or slide out out.

Presently about every 10 days, I have to either drive the truck or plug in for the Battery Tender charge a day or so. The security system is enough battery drain that the pre-air heater is now dropping the voltage to about 11 volts before hitting the starter, unless the batteries are fully charged.

Clay 2015 M2-106 Sports Chassis

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1 hour ago, ms60ocb said:

 I to have your concern with a Sport Chassis.

I have talked to Sport Chassis and we've resolved the height issue.  My concern now is that red connector with the 4 fuses on the + terminal. It doesn't look flexible at all which leads me to believe the spacing of the screw battery terminals is important, but SC says it isn't.  Ok.. hope they're right.

Edited by hemsteadc

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I have a 2008 sports chassis and had to have both batteries replaced while here in Phoenix last year.  After charging batteries for several days with the trickle charger I was able to drive over to a nearby shop and had both changed out.  Didn’t know if I wanted to tackle but after seeing how easy it was, it would have been quite easy.  Returned home and one of the two failed so I pulled that bad battery out and got a new one.  You have about 4-5 screws to removed plus a side bolt to loosen.  That piece just above the step can now be removed.  Disconnect the negative terminal first and then back terminals.  These are quite easy to remove and replace.  Battery had a strap to pick the battery up.  I put tape over the lip of the top of the step to protect the paint when removing.

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46 minutes ago, Randy and Helen said:

 You have about 4-5 screws to removed plus a side bolt to loosen. 

Screws?  Where?

 

The spacing of this "red thing" concerns me.  Doesn't look flexible at all.

battop-spacing.jpg

Edited by hemsteadc

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What you are looking at is the premade jumper between both negatives.  The bolt comes up from the battery through this jumper.  Look behind the arrow and you will see the nut holding this jumper to the negative post.  Remove the nut on both post and that jumper lifts up and you can move it to one side .  The back post have the same jumper for the positives.  Remove those nuts and it lifts up and away so you can now remove a battery

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13 minutes ago, Randy and Helen said:

What you are looking at is the premade jumper between both negatives.  The bolt comes up from the battery through this jumper.  Look behind the arrow and you will see the nut holding this jumper to the negative post.  Remove the nut on both post and that jumper lifts up and you can move it to one side .  The back post have the same jumper for the positives.  Remove those nuts and it lifts up and away so you can now remove a battery

That's the positive side.  I understand about how they connect, I'm just not clear on how adjustable they are if the new batteries don't have the same screw-post spacing.

Edited by hemsteadc

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If they don't have the same spacing, you bought the wrong batteries.

ETA: There is flexibility in the jumper to shrink, but it won't stretch worth a hoot.

Edited by Darryl&Rita

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Sportchassis says it's not a problem.  You say it is.  Sheesh...I guess I'm going to have to look at the physical battery and measure the post spacing.  No wonder I rarely do any work myself.

Edited by hemsteadc

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Just go to Volvo and buy the batteries. Your batteries will have a number on them to get the same batteries.

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19 hours ago, Randy and Helen said:

I have a 2008 sport chassis and had to have both batteries replaced while here in Phoenix last year.  g.

What shop?

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9 minutes ago, hemsteadc said:

Volvo?  why?

Any truck shop will have a pallet of batteries, priced lower than NAPA or Pep Boys will touch. Doesn't matter if it's a Freightliner dealer, Volvo, or Paccar. All will have similar pricing.

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  If there was only a decent truck shop around Palm Springs I'd be there in a heartbeat. So far I haven't found anything but junkyards.

EDIT:  Stopped by T&A Truck center on Dillon Road.  Seems qualified, busy place, open 24/7.  Any horror stories about this place?

Edited by hemsteadc

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