hemsteadc Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 My 5yo batteries are getting weak. Replacing does not look like a DIY thing. Anybody ever done this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Take a good photo, label the wires and pre-buy your new batteries. That way you can layout the new batteries in the same configuration as your old batteries and replace them in order. I would disconnect the negative grounds to the truck to start with and make that connection your last going back in with the new batteries. It will take another trip to the store to get you core charge back on the batteries but will save you a ton of frustration in some cases. 2017 Kenworth T6802015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites2016 Smart Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 My concern is the weight of these things and what appears to be a minimum amount of clearance to get them out. It looks like a back-breaker to be reaching in there and trying to lift..what.. 60 pounds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Buy a couple of battery carrier straps. They come in several different styles and will allow you to lift straight up. You do have to be physically capable of lifting them or use an engine lift, chain hoist or similar to get them out. If you are unsure about doing the job, hire someone to replace them for you. 2017 Kenworth T6802015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites2016 Smart Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Yeah, that's why I'm seriously thinking about having a shop do it. It looks like very little clearance to lift straight up, and having to reach in there ain't gonna do my back any good. Looking for a Lithium replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Heiser Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 5 hours ago, hemsteadc said: Yeah, that's why I'm seriously thinking about having a shop do it. It looks like very little clearance to lift straight up, and having to reach in there ain't gonna do my back any good. Looking for a Lithium replacement. There is no point in spending money on a Lithium battery for an MDT chassis battery IMHO. Your alternator will not charge them properly and will most likely harm them over time. It is much better to stick with a standard battery for this application. If you were talking house batteries in your RV, then I would be right there with you (as long as you have the proper charging and monitoring for them). For a starter type battery that does some double duty to run things in the cab of the truck, there is no real benefit in going with lithium. 2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift 2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard 2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan 2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage) 2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)My First Solar Install ThreadMy Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the buildMy MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet! chadheiser.com West Coast HDT Rally Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 20 hours ago, Chad Heiser said: There is no point in spending money on a Lithium battery for an MDT chassis battery IMHO. Your alternator will not charge them properly and will most likely harm them over time. After a bit of research I have to agree. No suitable replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenandjon Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 We have a M2 service truck on the farm. I just swapped out the batteries. It was not a big deal. I have a catch in my back so I sit on a stool for most things that I have to bend over for. But really if you took it to a shop don't go to a dealer. Just go to a normal auto shop. You will save hundreds of dollars. Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 I'm having trouble in the Palm Springs area finding any mechanic who's ever changed out batteries in this truck. I guess it isn't a highly technical job, but I'd prefer someone who doesn't have to be told which batteries to get and freak out about the fuse-holder assembly on the + terminals. I'm not ruling out doing the job myself as I can probably find someone to pull the batteries for me. They come with plastic lift handles. My batteries are holding at 12.5 which isn't too bad, but it worries me how it strains to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARGO Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 First find a mechanic that can load test EACH battery. They may be fine, and just a bad/rusted/corroded connection is making it sluggish. Also, could be starter. You'd have to see the movie to understand.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 They're 5 years old so due. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ms60ocb Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 On 1/17/2019 at 9:58 AM, hemsteadc said: My concern is the weight of these things and what appears to be a minimum amount of clearance to get them out. You haven't mentioned but I'm assuming you have custom truck. I to have your concern with a Sports Chassis. I haven't done the measurement s but the closest space may require dropping the step. Definitely I would want an insulted material to cover the Battery post before trying to lift or slide out out. Presently about every 10 days, I have to either drive the truck or plug in for the Battery Tender charge a day or so. The security system is enough battery drain that the pre-air heater is now dropping the voltage to about 11 volts before hitting the starter, unless the batteries are fully charged. Clay 2015 M2-106 Sports Chassis Clay & Marcie Too old to play in the snow Diesel pusher and previously 2 FW and small Class C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 1 hour ago, ms60ocb said: I to have your concern with a Sport Chassis. I have talked to Sport Chassis and we've resolved the height issue. My concern now is that red connector with the 4 fuses on the + terminal. It doesn't look flexible at all which leads me to believe the spacing of the screw battery terminals is important, but SC says it isn't. Ok.. hope they're right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy and Helen Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 I have a 2008 sports chassis and had to have both batteries replaced while here in Phoenix last year. After charging batteries for several days with the trickle charger I was able to drive over to a nearby shop and had both changed out. Didn’t know if I wanted to tackle but after seeing how easy it was, it would have been quite easy. Returned home and one of the two failed so I pulled that bad battery out and got a new one. You have about 4-5 screws to removed plus a side bolt to loosen. That piece just above the step can now be removed. Disconnect the negative terminal first and then back terminals. These are quite easy to remove and replace. Battery had a strap to pick the battery up. I put tape over the lip of the top of the step to protect the paint when removing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 46 minutes ago, Randy and Helen said: You have about 4-5 screws to removed plus a side bolt to loosen. Screws? Where? The spacing of this "red thing" concerns me. Doesn't look flexible at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy and Helen Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 What you are looking at is the premade jumper between both negatives. The bolt comes up from the battery through this jumper. Look behind the arrow and you will see the nut holding this jumper to the negative post. Remove the nut on both post and that jumper lifts up and you can move it to one side . The back post have the same jumper for the positives. Remove those nuts and it lifts up and away so you can now remove a battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 13 minutes ago, Randy and Helen said: What you are looking at is the premade jumper between both negatives. The bolt comes up from the battery through this jumper. Look behind the arrow and you will see the nut holding this jumper to the negative post. Remove the nut on both post and that jumper lifts up and you can move it to one side . The back post have the same jumper for the positives. Remove those nuts and it lifts up and away so you can now remove a battery That's the positive side. I understand about how they connect, I'm just not clear on how adjustable they are if the new batteries don't have the same screw-post spacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 If they don't have the same spacing, you bought the wrong batteries. ETA: There is flexibility in the jumper to shrink, but it won't stretch worth a hoot. I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy and Helen Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Exactly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Sportchassis says it's not a problem. You say it is. Sheesh...I guess I'm going to have to look at the physical battery and measure the post spacing. No wonder I rarely do any work myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Just go to Volvo and buy the batteries. Your batteries will have a number on them to get the same batteries. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Volvo? why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 19 hours ago, Randy and Helen said: I have a 2008 sport chassis and had to have both batteries replaced while here in Phoenix last year. g. What shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 9 minutes ago, hemsteadc said: Volvo? why? Any truck shop will have a pallet of batteries, priced lower than NAPA or Pep Boys will touch. Doesn't matter if it's a Freightliner dealer, Volvo, or Paccar. All will have similar pricing. I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 If there was only a decent truck shop around Palm Springs I'd be there in a heartbeat. So far I haven't found anything but junkyards. EDIT: Stopped by T&A Truck center on Dillon Road. Seems qualified, busy place, open 24/7. Any horror stories about this place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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