Volvo Systems questions

[Nwcid]

 

2014 Volvo VNL 630 with air interlock. 

 

1. Interior lighting.  Is there a kit or a list of the different bulbs to make the cab lights all LED?  Or at least increase the brightness, especially in the bunk area?  Last but not least, is there a off/on/door type switch that has one or more lights come on when you open the door?
2. I had the dashboard apart yesterday and did some wire chasing. My truck has the Aux 1 switch and it is plugged into the Aux 1 wiring, but I can not find where that wire runs. Is there anyway to find out what Aux 1 goes to? Behind the dash was plugs for Aux 2 and 3, any idea where those lines might terminate?
3. Both of my dash 12v outlets are making poor contact with devices and they are loose in their sockets. Should I try and replace them with OEM outlets or just go aftermarket? I have no concerns adding aftermarket ones. 
4. Overhead wiring (front of cab). At some point I will be adding accessories in the overhead area. I know there is already power for a CB up there but I may add a switch or two. Is there a conduit for passing new wire or will I have to take apart the whole A post and overhead to do this?
5. I have disconnected my air lines at the back of the truck. One line will be getting capped, the other one will be getting adapted to a standard QD air hose fitting. Of course an open fitting right there is exposed to the elements. Is there a cap, protector or some kind of enclosure to protect the fitting? I did a search and did not find anything.
6. Exterior lighting.  When I get my deck built I would like to add some appropriate sized and spaced tail lights.  I am thinking about the sequential lights that move the direction of the turn.  I have seen all in one set up and multi light set ups.  Are there advantages or disadvantages to doing this? 

[Darryl&Rita]

1. Superbrightleds.com

2. Either use a wire toner, or physically lay hands on the wires.

3. Replace them. Add some USB ports while you're at it.

4. The A pillar is the conduit. If you're lucky, you can remove an existing wire to pull a pull string in, from the top. Add any extra wires, and the original to pull back up.

5. Use a valve, and a plug in the output of the valve. Pull the plug, and add a fitting when you want to use air.

6. Either or. Looks are the deciding factor.

[Parrformance]

#5. With a QD, the rubber foot from a set of classic crutches will fit over the QD.

You likely have a set of crutches from the ankle injury you got 10 years ago when you tried to show you still got it at the company picnic pick up football game.

[Nwcid]

Good source for LED's, now I just need to figure out which ones I need. 

Chasing wires is going to be super hard.  There are close to 100 wires that are all the same color and run into bundles. 

For the air hose the simple solution is often the most over looked........

[Darryl&Rita]

Lights are most likely what are called "festoon lights", dash lights are available there, but I don't remember the part number.

Wiring harness has some method of identifying the individual wires, whether numbers or colour bands. KW actually puts the circuit name on their wires.

[rickeieio]

I wired my bed using the 5 way connector at the rear.  All my led's don't draw as much as the original incandescents.

One very simple source of air is to just put a fitting directly in the tank.  That was easy on my Mack, not so much on the Volvo.  That said, I just put in a bushing and quick disconnect, done.  No hose reel or other stuff to leak.

[Parrformance]

I plumbed a PTC fitting into my tank fitting and ran some 1/2 inch airline, I think. I added another PTC fitting, and a QD in a more desirable easier to reach location.

I also added a QD at the trailer air brake fitting, and a 25 foot hose reel.

After all of this, I only use the air lines for airing up tires and blowing stuff off.

I use Milwaukee Fuel 18v and 12v for any power tools.

[Nwcid]

13 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Lights are most likely what are called "festoon lights", dash lights are available there, but I don't remember the part number.

Wiring harness has some method of identifying the individual wires, whether numbers or colour bands. KW actually puts the circuit name on their wires.

I looked up Festoon lights and all I saw was hanging "party" lights.  I am looking for what LED bulb I will need to fit in the existing lights.  I am not sure what you mean by dash lights.  I have a fluorescent fixture over the bed.  I have dual lights over each front seat and there are red lights on the lower door panels.  

The wiring harness is labeled.  In this case it say AUX1 but does not say where it terminates on the other end.  They did a very good job of labeling all of the connections, even for features not on my truck. 

[Nwcid]

I am not understanding why I need to plumb to the tank.  

I have an air outlet right on the back of the cab that is easy to access.  Since I will not be using air for brakes, I will use the trailer brake "knob" to turn the air supply on and off.  

After doing some research I have been unable to find fittings that are the same as the air hose.  Apparently there is an adapter that is 1/2 NPT to the air hose fitting.  The adapters are in very tightly with what appears to be some kind of thread lock and I did not want to break the block they are mounted too.  It looks like this will be my best option. 

In my case this will just be for airing tires and cleaning things like the RZR also. 

 

[Parrformance]

I have adapted the Trailer air line too an air tool line.

I took the two fittings to a Hydraulic hose shop, and asked for the adaptor to mate them together.

Took him all of two minutes to get it, less than $10 dollars with a quality QD included.

[ARGO]

OK, TWO air lines on back of cab. Blue is "service" air, for the brakes. Red is "emergency" line, which is charged only when red knob in truck is pushed in, constant air BUT WILL CUT OFF at approx 60lbs. That is why it is more properly called a "breakaway" valve, in case you lose the trailer. It will cut off while you are using whatever when it hits 60lbs, you will have to go into the cab to reset it.

If you don't REALLY understand a truck's air system, I suggest you NOT MESS W/IT until you do, it is a real safety issue..   

[Darryl&Rita]

1 hour ago, Nwcid said:

I looked up Festoon lights and all I saw was hanging "party" lights.  I am looking for what LED bulb I will need to fit in the existing lights.  I am not sure what you mean by dash lights.  I have a fluorescent fixture over the bed.  I have dual lights over each front seat and there are red lights on the lower door panels.  

The wiring harness is labeled.  In this case it say AUX1 but does not say where it terminates on the other end.  They did a very good job of labeling all of the connections, even for features not on my truck. 

The lights that look like a piece of tubing, with electrical connections on each end, are referred to as Festoon lights. Don't use Google to search for them, search SuperBrightLED's site. Dash lights are the lights behind the instruments in the dash. Some guys (me included) get tired of pulling the dash out to replace burnt bulbs. You can also change the colours for something easier on the eyes.

 

13 minutes ago, ARGO said:

If you don't REALLY understand a truck's air system, I suggest you NOT MESS W/IT until you do, it is a real safety issue..   

Can't agree more. I will disagree with calling the Red air line the "Emergency" line, but it is somewhat common in the trucking world. It's properly called the Supply line, as it supplies air to the trailer air brake tank. Most people connect directly to the tanks to reduce the pressure drop that comes from the small lines and passages of the red knob.

[Nwcid]

32 minutes ago, ARGO said:

OK, TWO air lines on back of cab. Blue is "service" air, for the brakes. Red is "emergency" line, which is charged only when red knob in truck is pushed in, constant air BUT WILL CUT OFF at approx 60lbs. That is why it is more properly called a "breakaway" valve, in case you lose the trailer. It will cut off while you are using whatever when it hits 60lbs, you will have to go into the cab to reset it.

If you don't REALLY understand a truck's air system, I suggest you NOT MESS W/IT until you do, it is a real safety issue..   

I underhand how the system works.   

Maybe I am wrong about the CFM the truck puts out, which I keep seeing as 18.7 CFM.  That should be more than enough volume to fill up the occasional tire, blow out an air filter, fill up a water "floaty", etc with out dropping out the pressure.  If really am doing something that takes more pressure than that I really am not using the right tool. 

I am not trying to run air tools or anything that takes massive pressure or volume.  Most of what I am trying to is is accomplished with the $50 harbor freight compressor I bought for the RV. 

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by Nwcid

[Parrformance]

I have used BOTH of my quick disconnects to air up tires, the one plumbed into the tank and the one where the trailer line was.

They work great, I am always willing to mess with stuff on my truck AFTER I do what you did and ask the folks on here who have been there done that before me.

[Moresmoke]

4 hours ago, Nwcid said:

I underhand how the system works.   

Maybe I am wrong about the CFM the truck puts out, which I keep seeing as 18.7 CFM.  That should be more than enough volume to fill up the occasional tire, blow out an air filter, fill up a water "floaty", etc with out dropping out the pressure.  If really am doing something that takes more pressure than that I really am not using the right tool. 

I am not trying to run air tools or anything that takes massive pressure or volume.  Most of what I am trying to is is accomplished with the $50 harbor freight compressor I bought for the RV. 

 

The 18.7 CFM is from the compressor to the tanks at higher engine RPM. You will not have that much available from the trailer supply line. You will have enough for what you want to do.

Those of us that have put in direct plumbing are using more air. I use mine to adjust the air pressure in rear tractor tires when I am at pulls. Takes a lot of volume.

Edited February 4, 2021 by Moresmoke

[podwerkz]

If you still have the gladhands mounted and they are still functional as supply and service, then why not buy a 50 foot hose with a gladhand and air coupler (and/or tire inflator chuck) on it? 

These will work for light duty jobs.

You can buy them at nearly any large truck stop.

 

Edited February 5, 2021 by podwerkz

[Nwcid]

I pulled the entire hose system (for trailer connection) off.  No need to have them and they just took up space.

Edited February 5, 2021 by Nwcid