Rv Electrical

Rvdude22 · July 28, 2020

Good afternoon I have recently purchased a 2007 Keystone Cougar 289BHS. I am new to the world of RVs. With this in mind me and my wife are going to be living in the Rv full time. We do not plan on moving the rv for awhile since we have nothing big enough to pull it with. The RV is a 50 amp with a single ac at the moment I am planning on adding a second to help cool the rv. We are needing extra fridge and freezer space which we are planning on running a 4.5 cubic ft in the area where the bunk beds are and 5.3 cubic ft deep freezer that will sit out side. We also want to use a portable washer. The only other electronics that will be used is normal stuff that would be used for entertainment. With all of this information for what I am drawing for power. Will I need to do anything special to prevent electrical damage to anything in the rv? Also what are some tips that I should look for or do while living in the rv? Thank you anything is appreciated.

Edited July 28, 2020 by Rvdude22

SWharton · July 28, 2020

Before you worry about electrical I would worry about weight. You are planning to add a lot of weight to the RV. It is not just the weight of each appliance but when food is added to both. Once you are in the RV, fully loaded get weighed to see what your weight is. Then you can make some decisions. Don't forget the weight of the additional air conditioner also.

Rvdude22 · July 28, 2020

We looked into the weight and that won’t be an issue since the rv will sit in one place year round ontill I have a truck big enough to pull it. The rv also had some stuff removed from it like the couch dinette.

Chad Heiser · July 28, 2020

There shouldn’t be any major issues with your plans electrically. You will need to make sure you are not trying to plug all of the appliances into the same circuit. Rvs, especially less expensive ones tend to run single circuits for most of the plugs. You will have to do some testing to see which plugs are on which circuits and make sure you spread the loads appropriately so you don’t plug everything into one circuit and over tax that single circuit breaker. You will also want to spread the loads properly between line 1 and line 2 in the panel box.

For information, a 50 amp RV panel box actually has 100 amps of available power. It has two legs (line 1 and line 2) of 50 amps each. You want to make sure the second air conditioner is added to the opposite line from the current one. Depending on the current panel box construction you can determine which circuit breakers are on which lines by looking at it. If the panel box has the main feed breaker on the left side (a 50 amp breaker with two switches connected together), then every other breaker going down the panel from left to right is on the opposite line - line 1 for the first breaker to the right of the main breaker and line 2 for the second breaker to the right of the main breaker and repeating that pattern down the line. If the panel box has the main feed breaker in the center of the box, then all the breakers to the left of it are on line 1 and all the breakers to the right of it are on line 2.

rynosback · July 28, 2020

I find it interesting how the rig came with 50 amps and only has one AC. Usually it would be a 30amp connection with one AC and 50amp when you have two.

mptjelgin · July 28, 2020

Our rig came with 50 amp service, but only one A/C. It is prewired for the second A/C but we prefer to have the Fantastic Fan and the natural light up in the bedroom. I am happy to have the 50 amp service, and the ability to install the second A/C later if I decide to.

richardbetsey · July 29, 2020

In regards to the earlier comment about weight. Not only do you have to take the weight that will be on the truck (Gross vehicle weight rating and the weight on the rear axle) but the weight on the trailer axles. From what you say you will be adding significant weight to the axles on the trailer. You need to see what the axles are rated at. Keep in mind that it is very easy to overload them when the trailer is stocked up. Most trailer manufactures don't give you much room to add weight to the axles. Bets way is to have the trailer weighed and see how much extra weight you can add safely.

Ray,IN · July 30, 2020

3 hours ago, richardbetsey said:

In regards to the earlier comment about weight. Not only do you have to take the weight that will be on the truck (Gross vehicle weight rating and the weight on the rear axle) but the weight on the trailer axles. From what you say you will be adding significant weight to the axles on the trailer. You need to see what the axles are rated at. Keep in mind that it is very easy to overload them when the trailer is stocked up. Most trailer manufactures don't give you much room to add weight to the axles. Bets way is to have the trailer weighed and see how much extra weight you can add safely.

If I may add, trailer frames are not designed to support much more than the GVWR, although there is a safety factor involved.

Since he is going to setup the trailer permanently, he should use concrete blocks under the frame. The extra refrigerator will be a problem when he goes on the road IMO.

However it's his money to spend as he chooses; he only asked for advice, didn't say he would take it.

Dennis M · November 19, 2020

On 7/28/2020 at 11:56 AM, rynosback said:

I find it interesting how the rig came with 50 amps and only has one AC. Usually it would be a 30amp connection with one AC and 50amp when you have two.

Our Newmar has 50 Amp, one AC, and two furnaces. Generalities don't always apply.

Edited November 19, 2020 by Dennis M
Correction