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Volvo D12 Oil Pressure Sender discount


Black

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Hi all,

There's not a whole lot of meat to this post other than to say that today my dash alerted me to an electrical fault with my oil pressure sender (2004 Volvo 780 w/D12). I verified the fluids were good, kept driving, and then the sensor gave me a low oil pressure warning which shut off the truck. To keep going, I unplugged the sensor and continued on my way. When I called the dealer to buy a sensor, it came in at $326.95 (Part # 1077574). The non-OEM sensor with the corresponding part number sells on Amazon for $18 and ships next day with Prime. At that price, some of us might think about buying one to keep in a safe place on the truck "just in case".

I'll install it tomorrow and let y'all know if it solves the problem (it should but perhaps in addition to being partly made of Gold, the Volvo OEM part has some special properties).

 

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Where is this sensor located on the D12?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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16 minutes ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

The Volvo OEM part DOES has some special properties. It is designed to separate unsuspecting owners from their money. And from what I have seen, Volvo does a VERY good job of doing just that.

Yes, but they're just following the model established by John Deere, Harley Davidson, Mercedes, BMW, Cessna......the list goes on.

The trick is to know when you really need the branded part, and when you can simpley buy the pieces and fix it.  I often take apart pieces John Deere says are non-servicable, and fix them.  Example:  $150 for a re-man alternator, v. $20 for brushes and bearings.

When it comes to sensors, I don't think I'd risk it for $20, but $308 difference would justify looking up the specs.  I have some hydraulic pressure sensors on the combine that are incorrect, but very, very,  close.  Kept me running when the correct part was 2 days out........

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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43 minutes ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

The Volvo OEM part DOES has some special properties. It is designed to separate unsuspecting owners from their money. And from what I have seen, Volvo does a VERY good job of doing just that.

Unfortunately, in my experience there are no bargains at a Kenworth dealership, either.

Phil

 

2002 Teton Royal Aspen

2003 Kenworth T2000 - Cat C12 380/430 1450/1650, FreedomLine, 3.36 - TOTO . . . he's not in Kansas anymore.

ET Air Hitch

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Quote

Where is this sensor located on the D12?

 

The sensor is located on the drivers side of the block, near the top and in the middle. It's right behind the two big horizontal plugs and is the top most of two identical looking sensors. That probably reads like gibberish but once you open the hood, you'll see what I mean. If it weren't for all the wires in the way, it'd be about a 10 minute fix. As it sits, it looks like it'll take a universal joint, a couple extensions, and holding my mouth just right to get it out of there.

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41 minutes ago, Phil D said:

Unfortunately, in my experience there are no bargains at a Kenworth dealership, either.

The batteries on sale at KW can be good deal

2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey"  Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS

Jackalopee

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34 minutes ago, Black said:

 

The sensor is located on the drivers side of the block, near the top and in the middle. It's right behind the two big horizontal plugs and is the top most of two identical looking sensors. That probably reads like gibberish but once you open the hood, you'll see what I mean. If it weren't for all the wires in the way, it'd be about a 10 minute fix. As it sits, it looks like it'll take a universal joint, a couple extensions, and holding my mouth just right to get it out of there.

The valve cover is flat enough to set a beer safetly on👍🍺

2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey"  Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS

Jackalopee

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41 minutes ago, Black said:

 

The sensor is located on the drivers side of the block, near the top and in the middle. It's right behind the two big horizontal plugs and is the top most of two identical looking sensors. That probably reads like gibberish but once you open the hood, you'll see what I mean. If it weren't for all the wires in the way, it'd be about a 10 minute fix. As it sits, it looks like it'll take a universal joint, a couple extensions, and holding my mouth just right to get it out of there.

Yeah don’t get me and GeorgiaHybrid going about ease of replacing a sensor 🤣

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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3 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Yeah don’t get me and GeorgiaHybrid going about ease of replacing a sensor 🤣

There's a fuel pressure sensor on the back of the IFSM plate on an ISX that's a real bugger too.  I left a trail of blood on the shop floor changing that one.  But it wasn't much over $100...........

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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44 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

There's a fuel pressure sensor on the back of the IFSM plate on an ISX that's a real bugger too.  I left a trail of blood on the shop floor changing that one.  But it wasn't much over $100...........

DW says I haven’t really been working unless blood is let. 

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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6 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

The Volvo OEM part DOES has some special properties. It is designed to separate unsuspecting owners from their money. And from what I have seen, Volvo does a VERY good job of doing just that.

 

That's a GREAT answer! Love it :)

 

The starter is another money saver...I paid $130 for an Ebay starter that came from an independent shop with a warranty. So far so good w/no problems or hang ups.

 

The sensor will wait until tomorrow morning, I had an unexpected visit from aunts and uncles and I'm enjoying their company instead of the Volvo's for now.

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7 hours ago, Phil D said:

Unfortunately, in my experience there are no bargains at a Kenworth dealership, either.

The good thing about most Pete's or KW's is that I can get parts from a LOT of places. Sensors for a Cummins or Eaton are easy to find and fairly reasonable. Most of the other parts can be sourced within a day or two from the non-OEM parts makers.

2023 Thor Magnitude XG32

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I had the same problem maybe 6 - 7 years ago that I posted here.  I was in SC about 350 miles from home when the sensor started acting up.  BTW, it is a dual function sensor and also measures temperature.  Heading home on I-95 every 10-15 miles the sensor would fault and regardless of the escape feature on the DID lever the engine would shut down.  My next step was to knock the gear shift in neutral, turn off the key and attempt to restart the engine while coasting.  It was night and dark as a coal mine.  With the key off attempting a restart all of your lights go out - a rather scary experience.  Oh, unplugging the darn thing told the ECM you had no oil pressure and the engine would die.  I managed to limp home and before I put out the cash for a new sensor I called around to see if I could get a used one out of a pulled engine destined for a core.  No luck.  I had a box full of 1/2 watt resistors ranging from 10 ohms to 10 meg-ohms. I spent all day trying to find a resistor value that would fool the ECM.  Unfortunately for me the ECM apparently expected a changing value and if it did not see this change it would shut down.  I needed to map the resistance of a working oil temp/pressure sensor but had none.  So I forked over the cash for a new sensor.  I was really pissed because I felt the shutdown created an extremely dangerous situation.  At least the service brakes did not kick in as on some faults.  It was about a year later that the Chinese clone sensor appeared for around $20 bucks. 

300.JPG.c2a50e50210ede7534c4c440c7f9aa80.JPG

Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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Thankfully it was a quick and relatively painless install and I didn't need the extensions or universal joint after all. There wasn't much ratchet swing, but a socket/ratchet combo will allow you enough movement to remove/install the sensor and once it's broken loose, you can use your fingers to loosen it the rest of the way. It's a tight fit though, so you might have to put the socket on the sensor, then attach the ratchet to the socket, loosen it up, and then remove the ratchet from the socket, and then remove the socket. All in all, it took about 15 minutes from start to finish and the next time it'll take about 5-10 (hopefully there isn't a next time though).

Anyway, got it installed, fixed a suspect looking small alternator wire, fired it up, and.........everything is all good now. The oil pressure is reading 60 psi at idle, all warning lights have disappeared, and it's good to go. I took photos to help the next person but need to load them from my phone. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/26/2019 at 3:48 PM, SuiteSuccess said:

DW says I haven’t really been working unless blood is let. 

Good thing you are an anesthesiologist so you know how to make the pain stop. 

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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16 hours ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Yea but I'm not a doc and seem to bleed more than others...

Jim do you bleed helping other people or just helping me?

 

26 minutes ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I'm impressed you could spell anath, I mean anesta, well you know, the guy that puts people to sleep.

Wish I could say I knew how to spell it but at least I knew where to look it up.

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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1 hour ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Usually helping everybody... 😁

I'm glad it was not just me. That would have made me feel bad. But I'm good now.

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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