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Electric Dump Valves Anyone have them?


Hewhoknowslittle

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I am thinking of installing Drain Master electric dump valves on my 5er.

 

http://drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100342

 

Has anyone used them and any thoughts good or bad, local dealer likes them and they carry a 5 year warranty, they do not like the Valterra brand, Stated that they have removed several from hi end units and went to manual valves on them as the owners are against electric at that point, so any thoughts?

 

Roger

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Hewhoknowslittle, I have had electric dump valves on our Alfa fiver and fulltiming for 13 years. I don't know the manufacture, they aren't Drainmaster, but have been absolutely no problem. And if there were a problem, simply remove a 1/4" nut and gear strip, put on a standard pull handle and I'm good to go. Not bragging and I'm loyal to nothing but they have been good. Now fast forward to two years ago and a friend who has an Artic Fox fiver with Drainmasters. What a PITA! The first one to go belly up was the black tank. He couldn't find Drainmasters anywhere but Drainmaster. So you know the price was high. We changed it out, and like Nolan said "no fun with the belly pan". My friend is sort of crippled up so I was underneath with his help. What amused me was the manufacture said how the valve to be installed. The pull open and push close was to be mounted at the high point which lets the slide hit direct bottom where any left-over stuff would be and hinder the closure. Just what his problem was. We replaced it during the winter here in Yuma, the following summer the same valve went belly-up again along with one of the gray tank valves. Needless to say, he deep sixed the Drainmasters and installed manual pull valves. Not the handiest thing for him but sure beats not having to fool with the PITAS'.

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Our New Horizons originally had Drainmaster electric valves. I took them off several years ago because every time we dumped it was like Christmas. You never knew what was going to happen when you opened the package (turned on the switch). It is no fun to be at the public RV dump and have to crawl under the rig, remove an insulated door panel to get to the tanks and then open the valve manually. The electric valves were un-reliable. The black tank valve was the worst. Residue (use your imagination) would sometimes cause the valve to not close properly and there wouldn't be a good seal resulting in leakage.

 

NH found that the tank wall could flex with a full tank resulting in valve open/close issues, NH used to put electric valves on as standard equipment but went to manual valves because owners had so many problems. Some valve components were made of pot metal that broke easily when used manually.

 

You will be happier knowing that when you pull the manual valve it will always work.

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I installed one on an Itasca Meridian. I used it to remotely empty the gray tank when I was in an RV park, after taking proper precautions. When I got the Tour, I couldn't install it the way they recommended so I got a competitive brand that uses an existing Valterra valve.

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I am thinking of installing Drain Master electric dump valves on my 5er.

 

http://drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100342

 

Has anyone used them and any thoughts good or bad, local dealer likes them and they carry a 5 year warranty, they do not like the Valterra brand, Stated that they have removed several from hi end units and went to manual valves on them as the owners are against electric at that point, so any thoughts?

 

Roger

 

Why add complexity and possible failure points to an otherwise simple system? IMHO KISS applies here.

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There are several reasons why I want to do this one is the ability to dump the thanks from inside to coach the second reason is I've had the valve on the black tank replaced twice and it's all I can do to pull the cable open and push it closed and yes I always have a surprise when I hook up the hose. Since we full-time and don't move the trailer very much in the winter and we stay in a cool climate I want to be able to do this from inside the coach.

 

These are my reasons and only my reasons just asking if anybody's had success or failure with said valves so I can make up my mind what to do.

 

Thank you for everyone that contributed and keep them coming because I believe I'm going to do this one where another.

 

Roger

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I have been long contemplating a switch to electric valves but the uncertainty of what will happen outside, is a big deterrent. I have had sewer hose problems with spontaneous leaks and splits. It is one thing to have it happen while you are outside and "right there" to shut it off. It is something else to have a whole tank's contents to clean up in front of other park residents.

 

Yes, the uncertainty of what is behind door # 2 when I remove the cap to connect the hose was also a big issue. I put a clear Sewer line extension on my existing sewer connector and capped it with a manual shutoff bayonette mount valve to replace the cap. Big big improvement. If anything goes wrong in the process, I can just instantly shut off all effluent flow right there at the hose. I can see what is behind the valve before I open it and it is much easier to deal with back under the rig than it was trying to get a cap on or off with my face right in the same place.

 

Big improvement to the whole process and a safety valve for the whole system while traveling.

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We switched from manual to electric about a year ago and have been very happy with change. So far no problems. Dennis

 

On Edit:

MrSeas,

I'll check tomorrow (Thanksgiving) and see if I can find the info. Dennis

 

On Edit: Sorry it took me so long but the type of electric valves we had installed was the Barker 24130. Had read good reviews and some bad reviews on the Valtera's. Good luck. Dennis

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I have been long contemplating a switch to electric valves but the uncertainty of what will happen outside, is a big deterrent. I have had sewer hose problems with spontaneous leaks and splits. It is one thing to have it happen while you are outside and "right there" to shut it off. It is something else to have a whole tank's contents to clean up in front of other park residents.

 

Yes, the uncertainty of what is behind door # 2 when I remove the cap to connect the hose was also a big issue. I put a clear Sewer line extension on my existing sewer connector and capped it with a manual shutoff bayonette mount valve to replace the cap. Big big improvement. If anything goes wrong in the process, I can just instantly shut off all effluent flow right there at the hose. I can see what is behind the valve before I open it and it is much easier to deal with back under the rig than it was trying to get a cap on or off with my face right in the same place.

 

Big improvement to the whole process and a safety valve for the whole system while traveling.

 

I have the EZE Kleen Sewer System, no leaks but in the Kansas wind it will freeze, on the road I do use a flex sewer hose.

 

Roger, I use an additional twist on valve right where the hose attaches that has a pull handle. I don't get surprised anymore.

 

Correction, I don't get surprised by a dump valve anymore.

 

That's what I am going to install for traveling, just one less surprise :)

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My coach has galley and shower grey tanks. When I got this coach, every time I took the cap off the main drain hose connection, I would get a few ounces of 'something' seep out. I went as far as replacing all the gate valve seals and then the valves themselves. No luck, there was always 'something' there. I am about as far from a neat freak as you can get, but I just can't stand ANYTHING dripping out of that line. I'm the same way with sewer hoses. One drip at a connection is too much for me.

 

I got a twist on valve. By replacing the outlet end with a 90 degree elbow, I am able to leave it permanently installed. I put the drip cap on the end of the elbow that protrudes through the opening at the bottom of the hatch. With the two gray and black tanks valves closed, along with the twist on valve (which is what I converted to an electric valve) closed, I never have anything drip out when I remove the cap. In addition, if I leave the twist on valve closed and the two gray valves open, I can equalize the two gray tanks. That way, if I don't use galley water, but use more shower water, the tanks fill at the same rate.

 

I mounted the dump valve switch in the bathroom. When I remotely dump the gray tanks (I NEVER would consider dumping the black tank). I am looking out the window at the hose. If something ever happens (it hasn't yet, in about 5 years), I can shut it off as quickly inside as I could outside.

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My rig had remote cable valves installed and were very difficult to operate and eventually failed within 2 years. After a lot of research I decided to give this a try https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAYMB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Barker Auto Drain unit is an electric actuator that mounts to the flange that holds the valve in place. There is a bracket that must lay flat on the flange and due to our flange having a rib I did have to very carefully remove (Dremel) the rib so that the bracket would lay flat - if your flange does not have the rib then you will be ok. The Barker unit is made to work with the standard Valterra valves (which I really liked having a standard valve). The installation was very straight forward even with having to modify the flange. The unit has worked flawlessly for the 10 months that I have had it installed. Can not comment on the long term but I guess we will see....

 

Note that when/if you order the Barker unit it does NOT come with the valve itself - you will need to order it separately.

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