Starter and A/C issues on Volvo

[ChevyKeith]

So I finally got my first Moab trip in. Everything went well except for a couple issues with the truck:

 

1. Sometimes the starter justclicks and does not turn the engine over. I have replaced the batteries and cleaned and tightened all the connections. Its pretty random sometimes jsut starts sometimes clicks once then nexttry starts sometiems clicks several times then starts. I have not had it fail to start but I am worried. I have searched and see mainly conenctions and sometiems starter as a siuggestion. Does anyone have any suggestions if this soudns liek the starter or what? I also see references to the delco and mistubish as the best starters. I believe the Delco p/n is 8200433 39MT but if anyone can coinfirm tjhat would be great. I also have no idea where to find the mitsubishi p/n if anyone knows it.

 

2. A/C was not cooling - would cool sometimes and then blow heat sometimes. Also seems like the light on the a/c switch is not on. That sounds like low freon to me but maybe someone on here might have other ideas?

 

 

2007 Volvo 630

VED 12 engine

 

Thanks in advance for any help,

Keith

 

[NoDirectionHome]

DO NOT think of replacing the starter before getting an amperage reading while cranking. You need to diagnose, not start throwing parts at it. Could be anything from the ignition switch to the starter. Even if it is the starter, it could just need some attention to the brushes or solenoid that can be cured with contact cleaner of WD-40.

[ChevyKeith]

I expect I need a DC amp meter to do this. What amperage reading when cranking would indicate good or bad?

Any suggestions of an amp meter that would handle this?

 

Thanks

[dennisvr]

So I finally got my first Moab trip in. Everything went well except for a couple issues with the truck:

 

1. Sometimes the starter justclicks and does not turn the engine over. I have replaced the batteries and cleaned and tightened all the connections. Its pretty random sometimes jsut starts sometimes clicks once then nexttry starts sometiems clicks several times then starts. I have not had it fail to start but I am worried. I have searched and see mainly conenctions and sometiems starter as a siuggestion. Does anyone have any suggestions if this soudns liek the starter or what? I also see references to the delco and mistubish as the best starters. I believe the Delco p/n is 8200433 39MT but if anyone can coinfirm tjhat would be great. I also have no idea where to find the mitsubishi p/n if anyone knows it.

 

2. A/C was not cooling - would cool sometimes and then blow heat sometimes. Also seems like the light on the a/c switch is not on. That sounds like low freon to me but maybe someone on here might have other ideas?

 

 

2007 Volvo 630

VED 12 engine

 

Thanks in advance for any help,

Keith

 

 

 

The clicking noise is the solenoid on the starter engaging. If the starter doesn't crank it could be a couple of things. One is you are not getting enough current to the starter from the batteries. Other thing could be bad solenoid contacts or bad starter.

What I would do is put a meter on the large stud at the solenoid with the cables coming from the batteries and have someone turn the key to start. If the starter clicks and the meter doesn't move it tells me that the solenoid contacts are not engaging "bad solenoid". If the meter voltage drops when you hit the key, it could be a poor connection or a bad spot on the starter.

The next test you can do is put your meter on the other large stud on the solenoid this sends power to the starter. Hit the key and if the meter doesn't drop then it could be bad contacts in the solenoid, if it does move and the starter doesn't turn, then its a bad starter.

Did this confuse you yet? It confused me when I reread it. I have no problem testing, but I have a hard time explaining it.

[Larry&Donna-AK]

I've had a similar starting problem. The Ground cable connections was the problem, after a thorough cleaning solved the issue.

[Big5er]

As for the light on the A/C switch, read your switch CAREFULLY. My '05 Volvo says "A/C off" so when the switch is lit, the A/C is "off". Don't ask me how stupid I felt when I complained to the salesman that my A/C was blowing hot even though the switch was "on".

[Dennis M]

Funny you should mention the AC in the same post as the starter issue, that may be the source of the problem.

 

When we first got our truck we had the exact same issue, intermittent no start, usually worked on the third or fourth try. Never enough to leave us stranded until one day it did. I had checked and cleaned all of the connections. I have all the maintenance records on the truck from day one so I had been back through them and found the starter replaced FOUR times in 600k miles!

 

So we are on the road in KY. No start at a rest stop on I-75. A road mech comes out and gets it started by jumping across the the starter posts. Go on in to Louisville Truck Center. I describe the issue to the Assistant Service Manager, he says "Volvo engine right?" I say yes, he says "Corrosion INSIDE the starter." !!!

 

Turns out the AC line that runs up the firewall directly above the starter drips condensation right on the hot wire connection on the starter. It drys on the outside but slowly corrodes the connection INSIDE.

 

Put a new starter on, insulated the AC line and no problems ever again. That was 8 years ago and about 80k miles. I say look there first.

[Ronbo]

After removing a full sized starter once you will want a gear reduction starter to replace it with.

[ChevyKeith]

I will check the a/c switch light meaning. Never considered that.

 

I will also double check the location and potential for dripping on the starter.

 

The testing with a meter sounds like a way I can check the starter/solenoid with just a volt meter. I think I understand - will see if it makes sense when I get to it.

 

Thanks for the ideas.

[rdickinson]

I had ac issues last summer. The light in the switch is very faint, difficult to see in daylight. Also, there isn't a very noticeable click when the switch is pushed. However, in my case, if the light is on the ac is on. Odd that similar trucks would have switch wired up opposite.

 

The Kamloops HDT people put a type of oil in the ac system, the oil would tell tale where the leak was. In my case it was a wear hole in an ac line caused by a clamp to the underside of the cab area. They also pressurise the system and looked for a leakdown on the gauge. Same as an air leak test in the Pre Trip.

[Nuke-E]

As for the light on the A/C switch, read your switch CAREFULLY. My '05 Volvo says "A/C off" so when the switch is lit, the A/C is "off". Don't ask me how stupid I felt when I complained to the salesman that my A/C was blowing hot even though the switch was "on".

 

Ok, you made me look. Mine ('04) definitely says A/C ON, and the light's on when it's on. You don't have the automatic controls do you?

[Dollytrolley]

Chevy.........

 

Be CAREFUL with this ........."suggestion"........

 

Sometimes, once a starter get some 'age" the brushes inside the starter will wear-down and the brush springs will fail to push hard enough to properly contact the commutator on the starter armature,

 

SO.........Be CAREFUL and make sure the truck is out of gear AND the wheels are chocked and then have someone switch the starter switch to the 'start' position and HOLD the switch in the position while you tap briskly on the side of the started with a hammer or a pipe and see if the starter operates.......IF it does you will know that your starter needs new brushes and springs AND the commutator turned and the mica will need to be under-cut to restore to new condition.

 

Any real automotive-electrical shop can complete this repair in a short time and the parts are Cheeeepe and labor should not be bad......

 

 

BE CAREFUL....OK

 

Drive on...........(Start every-time......)

[Big5er]

Odd that similar trucks would have switch wired up opposite.

Roger I agree, but it isn't wired different, the switch says "A/C off"

Check it out...lower left, if you can read it. If not, go check it out in a larger size:

 

EDIT: Could it have something to do with the fact that I have rear A/C controls in the sleeper? I know David doesn't. Roger, what about you?

 

RE EDIT: Found it!! This pdf file of the owners manual shows the "AIR CONDITIONING ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL (ECC)" on page 119 with ethe "A/C off" switch and the "AIR CONDITIONING MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL (MCC)" on page 123 with the "A/C on" button.

I guess David was right, I guess I have automatic A/C controls or something??

[rdickinson]

Not sure about AC controls in rear of cab. Truck is up at Level 1 getting generator moved. The panel in the sleeper doesn't get used, sleeper is for light storage. I already know my big sleeper dome lite is hooked up different from someone else's.

 

With the grief with the AC last summer I do know if the light is on then the AC is pumping cold air. Doesn't make sense to have the light lit if ac is not working. That would be a source of parasitic drag when the truck was shut off unless it goes out when ignition is turned off. As said previously, the ac light in my truck is very faint at best.

 

Hence the battery kill switch on mine. I try to take the stupid out of it.

 

Maybe these trucks are not all wired the same.

[peety3]

RE EDIT: Found it!! This pdf file of the owners manual shows the "AIR CONDITIONING ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL (ECC)" on page 119 with ethe "A/C off" switch and the "AIR CONDITIONING MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL (MCC)" on page 123 with the "A/C on" button.

I guess David was right, I guess I have automatic A/C controls or something??

See how the temp knob has numbers? It's an automatic system to mix cold&hot so that your cab is (theoretically...) the desired temperature (or some relative variation thereafter...).

[RandyA]

I expect I need a DC amp meter to do this. What amperage reading when cranking would indicate good or bad?

Any suggestions of an amp meter that would handle this?

 

Thanks

I have a DC clamp on amp-meter that will measure up to 1,000 amps, I have 4 batteries and a good starter in my Volvo. Cranking will over-range the meter meaning the LRC is in excess of 1,000 amps. Once the starter is turning the engine the current drops back to 800 - 900 amps depending on temperature. The cost of the meter is about equal to 4 batteries and a starter , Yet another reason to consider a gear reduction starter when needing to replace.

[Nuke-E]

Roger I agree, but it isn't wired different, the switch says "A/C off"

Check it out...lower left, if you can read it. If not, go check it out in a larger size:

 

 

EDIT: Could it have something to do with the fact that I have rear A/C controls in the sleeper? I know David doesn't. Roger, what about you?

 

RE EDIT: Found it!! This pdf file of the owners manual shows the "AIR CONDITIONING ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL (ECC)" on page 119 with ethe "A/C off" switch and the "AIR CONDITIONING MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL (MCC)" on page 123 with the "A/C on" button.

I guess David was right, I guess I have automatic A/C controls or something??

 

I've been watching for one of those panels to show up on eBay--missed out on one a few months ago. I want to upgrade mine--it looks like all of the wiring is the same, and the temperature sensor plug is on the harness near the lighter. Don't know if any programming needs done, so I don't want to spend too much to try it out. Maybe we need to give it a shot at the next rally.

 

You can leave the fan knob in AUT and set the temperature, and it will take care of the rest. Mine has to be fiddled with as things cool off/heat up--my last two cars have had auto climate controls, and I've been spoiled by it. Smarts do too, although theirs operates in a weird quirky French way.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

So I finally got my first Moab trip in. Everything went well except for a couple issues with the truck:

 

1. Sometimes the starter justclicks and does not turn the engine over. I have replaced the batteries and cleaned and tightened all the connections. Its pretty random sometimes jsut starts sometimes clicks once then nexttry starts sometiems clicks several times then starts. I have not had it fail to start but I am worried. I have searched and see mainly conenctions and sometiems starter as a siuggestion. Does anyone have any suggestions if this soudns liek the starter or what? I also see references to the delco and mistubish as the best starters. I believe the Delco p/n is 8200433 39MT but if anyone can coinfirm tjhat would be great. I also have no idea where to find the mitsubishi p/n if anyone knows it.

 

2. A/C was not cooling - would cool sometimes and then blow heat sometimes. Also seems like the light on the a/c switch is not on. That sounds like low freon to me but maybe someone on here might have other ideas?

 

 

2007 Volvo 630

VED 12 engine

 

Thanks in advance for any help,

Keith

 

Your issues could be connected. I had intermittent AC issues as well. I also had battery/voltage issues. In my case, I cleaned and replaced several cables that looked fine but were corroded internally, and replaced the Alternator. My AC compressor would not engage with less than 13v to it. 12.9volts= no AC. So with clean and new cables running from the alt to the starter to the battery bank, everything charged, and worked well.

[rdickinson]

Roger I agree, but it isn't wired different, the switch says "A/C off"

Check it out...lower left, if you can read it. If not, go check it out in a larger size:

 

EDIT: Could it have something to do with the fact that I have rear A/C controls in the sleeper? I know David doesn't. Roger, what about you?

 

RE EDIT: Found it!! This pdf file of the owners manual shows the "AIR CONDITIONING ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL (ECC)" on page 119 with ethe "A/C off" switch and the "AIR CONDITIONING MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL (MCC)" on page 123 with the "A/C on" button.

I guess David was right, I guess I have automatic A/C controls or something??

 

Are you satisfied with your backup camera system?

 

Do you have cameras on the sides of the trailer at the front?

 

Do you have a camera at the rear of the trailer?

 

What wiring and connectors did you use from trailer to truck?

 

Why cameras on the sides of the truck, don't mirrors give you what you want?

 

Could another camera be mounted to look down on the front right fender for tight places?

 

Anything else I need to know?

 

Should this be moved from here so as not to hijack the topic.

 

What about flipping the image, is that needed.

 

Can I ask about cost please?

 

Thanks.

[ChevyKeith]

I got swamped and haven't worked on the starter yet. I did look at the A/C switch closer. It says A/C ON and in fact the light does come on just very dim.

That whole other way of automating the A/C and using the switch to turn off is pretty crazy.

 

I don't think I can justify a 1000+ amp DC amp meter, though I love excuses to buy more tools. I will try a couple of these other ideas. Since the Volvo is too big for my barn, these all happen outside on the ground. I am about the sames thickness as the Volvo ground clearance, so its a pain

 

Thanks so much for the responses and ideas.

[Big5er]

Roger, tried to send you a pm and it said you can't have any more.

 

Keith, I'm gonna hijack your thread...sorry

 

Are you satisfied with your backup camera system? YES

Do you have cameras on the sides of the trailer at the front? NO, only have the ones on the sides of the truck. They are activated by the turn signals. Might have been nice if I had the trailer built...just too hard (for me) to install and run those wires

Do you have a camera at the rear of the trailer? Yes, one on the back of the truck, one on the back of the trailer. 2 sides of truck and the computer/gps input. 5 inputs on a 4 camera system. I alternate the two rears with a switch

What wiring and connectors did you use from trailer to truck? Bought a curly cable from the same guy I got the cameras from.

On EBAY, from the guy Jack recommended. lots of people have used him

Why cameras on the sides of the truck, don't mirrors give you what you want? Eliminated the blind spots. I always use the mirrors, hit the turn signal to change lanes and look at the screen to verify

Could another camera be mounted to look down on the front right fender for tight places? Can mount one anywhere you want I suppose

Anything else I need to know? Send me a PM and I will send you a link to all my photos. I have more of the system and placement.

And here is my system on ebay

Should this be moved from here so as not to hijack the topic. too late now hehe

What about flipping the image, is that needed. Never had a need to do it

Can I ask about cost please? See his web site...I added a camera (4th cam) the connections for truck and trailer, heavy duty cable to connect them and a fifty ft run of cable for the trailer. You can call Steve. He is very helpful and knows his products. The 4th camera came with a shorter cable, he swapped it for the 50ft'er for next to nothing.

Thanks. Welcome

[rdickinson]

Pm's are full I think, how do I dump them?

 

Thanks for info.

 

R

[Broncohauler]

My 2016 work truck dose not have climate control I sure wish it did. I am also having to constantly adjust the temperature. And my AC is on when the light is lite.

 

One thing I have noticed is that the cup holder is in front of the switch. And I can't tell you how many times that I've unknowingly turned it off or on when taking a drink from my Dr Pepper.

[Big5er]

Pm's are full I think, how do I dump them?

 

Thanks for info.

 

R

Check box to the right of each message (or the one at the top to check them all) and then select "delete" at the bottom of the page

 

My 2016 work truck dose not have climate control I sure wish it did. I am also having to constantly adjust the temperature. And my AC is on when the light is lite.

 

One thing I have noticed is that the cup holder is in front of the switch. And I can't tell you how many times that I've unknowingly turned it off or on when taking a drink from my Dr Pepper.

Dr. Pepper?? I knew there was something special about you BH.

[rdickinson]

OK,dumped a bunch. It is pushing the envelope to install and work bugs out of camera system B4 departure in December.