noteven Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Do you need a CDL with camera endorsement if you are over 25,947 lbs on 2 axles ? ? "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Roger- I have the Levithan system from E-bay 4 camera, 10" monitor. I have 1 camera on the truck, 1 cam on the trailer rear, and 1 on each side of the trailer up by the landing gear. Having them on the front sides of the rv mounted low, gives me a view of where the tires are rolling- how close to curbs, pot holes etc. I think I spent $800 for everything- coil cable, long cables, etc. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Thanks, that pretty much is the way mine would be hooked up. Front trailer light wiring could go through storage compartments. A camera to look at the hitch may be added on a switch like Phil's. Monitor would go over the rt bank of switches on the dash, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Roger- I have the Levithan system from E-bay 4 camera, 10" monitor. I have 1 camera on the truck, 1 cam on the trailer rear, and 1 on each side of the trailer up by the landing gear. Having them on the front sides of the rv mounted low, gives me a view of where the tires are rolling- how close to curbs, pot holes etc. I think I spent $800 for everything- coil cable, long cables, etc. That is the system/cameras I have been using for 13 years. I've tried others, but for the MONEY it is the best I can find. It is a balance between "best image" and least money, and Steve's products hit MY sweet spot. They are NOT the best image available, but in my opinion they are more than "good enough". Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 As for the light on the A/C switch, read your switch CAREFULLY. My '05 Volvo says "A/C off" so when the switch is lit, the A/C is "off". Don't ask me how stupid I felt when I complained to the salesman that my A/C was blowing hot even though the switch was "on". Had Chris send a pic of dash AC switch says "on". Go figure. Got pics, thanks. They were already attached to yesterdays post or was it the day before. Probably by accident. Is the monitor screen size adequate or would a tablet on the dash be better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big5er Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 In my opinion, It's more than adequate as a backup camera. For looking at the map, it could be bigger but it is still adequate enough to follow the route and the lane guidance instructions. MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~ 2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 2014 smart Fortwo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Currently my 14" laptop is used for Nav. It sits on a Jotto big Rig laptop stand just to the rt of the shifter handle on the seat. Am trying to get lane assist and a laser backup system to project how the trailer is lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 That is the system/cameras I have been using for 13 years. I've tried others, but for the MONEY it is the best I can find. It is a balance between "best image" and least money, and Steve's products hit MY sweet spot. They are NOT the best image available, but in my opinion they are more than "good enough". A comment about the camera image- After a light rain, mist, dusty road, etc, camera image degrades anyway because of the crud on the lenses. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Chevy: I know this may have been stated before...but almost all starting problems can be tested with a good DVM if you know where/what to look for. No need for that 1KA Ammeter! As noted, make ABSOLUTELY certain that the truck is in Neutral and the brakes on. Have a helper in the cab to hit the starter button/key. All the below are for when the starter is not cranking, just clicking (with the starter button/key in crank position). Just step thru the system to find where the voltage is being lost. Measure the voltage across the main output wires at the batteries. If it stays 12-13V, the batteries are fine. Measure the voltage (to Chassis) on the main battery cable "shoe" (not the stud) at the starter solenoid. If 12V, the CABLES are good. If not go check your ground and + cables (end to end) to see which one has the voltage drop. Measure the voltage on the solenoid Input STUD. If 12V that connection is good. (I've had several times the only problem was a loose connection between the cable shoe and the stud) Measure voltage on the OUTPUT stud (to starter motor itself). If 12V, the MOTOR is the problem (brushes most likely). If 0-5V, the SOLENOID is the problem. Of course, this doesn't mean you can't have multiple problems. For instance, you could replace a bad solenoid only to find that there is also a bad cable. Any bad component can mask others. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoDirectionHome Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Jeff- C IL " If it stays 12-13V, the batteries are fine." If you have a bad connection, solenoid or starter, your battery could easily go below 12V. You really need to start at the starter and work your way back to the battery and this is where an amp meter.helps "There are No Experts, Do the Math!" 2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp 1850ft-lb 18spd 3.31 260"wb SpaceCraft S-470 SKP #131740 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyKeith Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 thanks for the suggestions. Its wet outside from the snow melting so I will try later next week if it dries up some. 2007 Volvo 630 VED12 465hp / Eaton Ultrashift transmission singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin 2013 Forrest River Sierrra 315RE 2006 Yamaha Rhino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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