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Poll service Hook Up location


Steve from SoCal

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I am revamping my trailer and, I have the option of moving some service points at this time. I am asking for your input on ideal location for water, electric and, dump connections. Where are your service attach points and, what would you change? I have a macerator pump installed for waste disposal. Would having an electrical plug and fresh water at both front and back be worthy of doing?

 

Steve

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I have a 50 amp inlet just behind the basement door and at the end of the trailer. They are coupled via a transfer switch.

 

When I put the pressure regulator and large water filters inside the cargo bay, I moved the city water inlet to near the forward 50 amp inlet.

 

The fresh water tank fill is still in the rear but I don't use it as I added a valve to add water to the tank from the city water inlet.

 

I find the forward utility location to be more convenient.

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All of our connections are midway on the drivers side with an additional fresh water tank fill on the passenger side as we have two tanks.

 

We had one spot that had the electrical connection at the rear of the site and we had to pull in to access the toy hauler rear door. I needed a front connection at that site. Their 50amp plug was not working to use my 50 amp cord and I was a few feet short with my two 30amp cords. Luckily did not need AC that trip.

 

Also a front plug would be nice if your generator is on your truck.

Dave

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Mine is set up like Mark's. 50 amp rear and front with connected via a transfer switch. The front one is on the generator contacts and acts as the generator input should I need one. I find it handy to have one on both ends and align the trailer to the sewer connection. Then the 35 foot, 50 amp cable will reach the electrical connector on one end or the other and I don't have to carry the 50 foot cord with me.

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Mine are all in the center except elec and tv/satellite. The real problem is sewer location because of the need to have the right drop in the dump line. The spot i am in now has everything at the rear and ut takes 15 ft of sewer line just to reach it. At that distance there is not enough drop to properly flush everything. What a pain.

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My electrical is on front and rear, like Jack's, (I think he copied me ;) ). When I'm traveling I find I use the front connection about 1/3 the time because I do like to park the truck in front of the trailer requiring me to push the trailer back as far as possible on the space. Front location is about mid total combined length putting it right at most park box locations (mid way).

 

As mentioned, it does require you to have a transfer switch, and I think for most of us, because of Gen Packs, that would be the second switch in your system. BE AWARE - your front line and your rear line should be on separate switches. If you were to have a switch fail while hooked up to rear, you can find your 50 amp extension and hook up to the front connection. If they both go to the same transfer switch - you're out of luck for quick power.

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I don't understand the need for another generator switch? The plug at the rear of my trailer goes to the switch, IF I turn the generator on the switch drops out the shore power. I add a plug into the cable from the back before it enters the switch, my shore power is Y ed but still drops with generator power. I must be making a novice oversight of something?

 

Steve

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I don't understand the need for another generator switch? The plug at the rear of my trailer goes to the switch, IF I turn the generator on the switch drops out the shore power. I add a plug into the cable from the back before it enters the switch, my shore power is Y ed but still drops with generator power. I must be making a novice oversight of something?

 

Steve

 

You can't just Y your two shore power cables together. This creates a dangerous issue in that the unused plug (either front of back) is energized when the other one is plugged in. If someone touches the plug (ie lifts cap and sticks fingers in it - like a kid) they are potentially getting zapped with 220 volts on a 50 amp plug. Someone could also plug in both chords and supply more power than your coach can safely handle. There needs to be a second transfer switch involved to only allow one plug to be energized at a time. If you do not have a generator in your coach then you can get away with only one transfer switch between the two plugs. If you have a built in generator, then you need a transfer switch between the generator input and one plug and then another transfer switch between that (generator/plug) input and the second plug.

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I see said the blind man. I am not sure what these come with for power connections, my trailer came with a cord wire nutted through the hole where a Plug was?

 

I do industrial electrical controls among other things, I am using RussellStoll pin and sleeve connectors on the trailer. The female ends are what would be through the side of the trailer. These are not very common at capmgrounds I bet so, I have a cord made up with a male pin to a 14-50P. At my two primary locations I can access more current to run my electric appliances. The ends on the trailer have waterproof caps and are intrinsically safe for hot disconnect at up to 600 volts. Somebody would have to unscrew the cap and stick a 5+ inch long rod into a pin socket to shock themselves. I could put those cute little arc flash decals above the plugs!

 

Steve

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I see said the blind man. I am not sure what these come with for power connections, my trailer came with a cord wire nutted through the hole where a Plug was?

 

I was referring to this type of RV plug.

 

post-23816-0-29051300-1446650544_thumb.gif

 

It is a standard 50 amp cord receptacle. As you can see, when the cover is lifted there are prongs that are exposed. If you simply "Y'd" the two power cords together with these type receptacles, the prongs on the unused receptacle would be energized and obviously very dangerous.

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You can't just Y your two shore power cables together. This creates a dangerous issue in that the unused plug (either front of back) is energized when the other one is plugged in. If someone touches the plug (ie lifts cap and sticks fingers in it - like a kid) they are potentially getting zapped with 220 volts on a 50 amp plug. Someone could also plug in both chords and supply more power than your coach can safely handle. There needs to be a second transfer switch involved to only allow one plug to be energized at a time. If you do not have a generator in your coach then you can get away with only one transfer switch between the two plugs. If you have a built in generator, then you need a transfer switch between the generator input and one plug and then another transfer switch between that (generator/plug) input and the second plug.

Exactly. Well stated.

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The connectors I am using are female receptacles on the trailer. I agree that with a male twist lock a dangerous condition exists. The device I am using is rated at 100 amps, 600 VAC, it would be possible to use two power posts at a commercial campground to power my trailer. The receptacles are covered with a screw on cap, they can be snugged down to the point where a tool is required to remove them.

 

I know this is not a standard RV power scheme, I have a 10KW electric water heater and, 10KW stove. The generator switch I have is only rated to 12 KW so I need to replace it anyways. That said, I could not get parallel power without the Y or at least not without another cable with a Y. The power system works and is safe, it is not a typical RV system but, it is in accordance with the NEC.

 

Steve

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Hi Charlie,

 

The pin and sleeve connectors have a shrouded male connector, they don't have a NEMA number. The connectors I am using are Russellstoll made by Thomas & Betts now. They are UL, CSA, TUV etc approved. NEMA descriptions reference connector devices that are designed for a particular voltage,pin and sleeve devices are rated to a max voltage AC and DC, usually 600 VAC and 250 DC.

 

I will try and take some pictures of the connectors later today.

 

Steve

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What happens if you should decide to dual plug to two different campground posts and the 220 hot legs are reversed?

Always check phase orientation. I would check at EVERY place I went, even two different poles in the same place. The wye point at the two plugs is the most practical place to adjust the incoming line current. The L-1 L-2 would be the only change.

 

Steve

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