Steve from SoCal Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I am revamping my trailer and, I have the option of moving some service points at this time. I am asking for your input on ideal location for water, electric and, dump connections. Where are your service attach points and, what would you change? I have a macerator pump installed for waste disposal. Would having an electrical plug and fresh water at both front and back be worthy of doing? Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 My electrical connection is at the rear of my trailer. I'm finding most pedestals are "mid site" so would love to have 2nd connection mid trailer. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I have a "50 amp" receptical at both ends of my trailer and find it very useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I also have a 50 amp front and rear. On longer trailers it comes in handy because you tend to push the trailer as far back in the site as you can. Most pedestals are mid-point in the site, although I have seen them in the front. Which is not a good place.... Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 50 amp at rear. Prefer mid connector. Charlie Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I have a 50 amp inlet just behind the basement door and at the end of the trailer. They are coupled via a transfer switch. When I put the pressure regulator and large water filters inside the cargo bay, I moved the city water inlet to near the forward 50 amp inlet. The fresh water tank fill is still in the rear but I don't use it as I added a valve to add water to the tank from the city water inlet. I find the forward utility location to be more convenient. Please click for Emails instead of PM Mark & DaleJoey - 2016 Bounder 33C Tige - 2006 40' Travel SupremeSparky III - 2021 Mustang Mach-e, off the the Road since 2019 Useful HDT Truck, Trailer, and Full-timing Info atwww.dmbruss.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 My water is mid location now, I could put the electrical connection near the water. It sounds like a mid location for both is generally the most practical? Mark; I like the idea of using a valve to fill the fresh water tank via the city water port, I will include that feature thanks. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 All of our connections are midway on the drivers side with an additional fresh water tank fill on the passenger side as we have two tanks. We had one spot that had the electrical connection at the rear of the site and we had to pull in to access the toy hauler rear door. I needed a front connection at that site. Their 50amp plug was not working to use my 50 amp cord and I was a few feet short with my two 30amp cords. Luckily did not need AC that trip. Also a front plug would be nice if your generator is on your truck. Dave 2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch 2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you! Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/ for much more info on HDT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Mine is set up like Mark's. 50 amp rear and front with connected via a transfer switch. The front one is on the generator contacts and acts as the generator input should I need one. I find it handy to have one on both ends and align the trailer to the sewer connection. Then the 35 foot, 50 amp cable will reach the electrical connector on one end or the other and I don't have to carry the 50 foot cord with me. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis M Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 50 amp at left rear, would prefer midships which is where the water and dump valves are. I carry two 30 foot 30 amp extensions to get to various pedestal locations. With just one AC we can run on 30 amps with no problem. Dennis & NancyTucson, AZ in winter, on the road in summer.1999 Volvo 610 "Bud" 425 HP Volvo, Super 10 spd.2005 Mountain Aire 35 BLKS2013 smart fortwo CityFlame riding on Bud(Replaced '05 smart first loaded in '06 and '11 smart that gave it's life to save me!)Our Travel Blog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budeneighe Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Mine are all in the center except elec and tv/satellite. The real problem is sewer location because of the need to have the right drop in the dump line. The spot i am in now has everything at the rear and ut takes 15 ft of sewer line just to reach it. At that distance there is not enough drop to properly flush everything. What a pain. RVBuddys Journal Our progress into full-timing.Budd & Merrily ===-> SKP# 088936 Other Websites:---> Hub of all my blogsClifford - 2000 VNL64T770 :: DakotR - 1999 C40KS King of the Road :: $PRITE - 2013 Smart Passion w/cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 My electrical is on front and rear, like Jack's, (I think he copied me ). When I'm traveling I find I use the front connection about 1/3 the time because I do like to park the truck in front of the trailer requiring me to push the trailer back as far as possible on the space. Front location is about mid total combined length putting it right at most park box locations (mid way). As mentioned, it does require you to have a transfer switch, and I think for most of us, because of Gen Packs, that would be the second switch in your system. BE AWARE - your front line and your rear line should be on separate switches. If you were to have a switch fail while hooked up to rear, you can find your 50 amp extension and hook up to the front connection. If they both go to the same transfer switch - you're out of luck for quick power. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 I don't understand the need for another generator switch? The plug at the rear of my trailer goes to the switch, IF I turn the generator on the switch drops out the shore power. I add a plug into the cable from the back before it enters the switch, my shore power is Y ed but still drops with generator power. I must be making a novice oversight of something? Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Heiser Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 I don't understand the need for another generator switch? The plug at the rear of my trailer goes to the switch, IF I turn the generator on the switch drops out the shore power. I add a plug into the cable from the back before it enters the switch, my shore power is Y ed but still drops with generator power. I must be making a novice oversight of something? Steve You can't just Y your two shore power cables together. This creates a dangerous issue in that the unused plug (either front of back) is energized when the other one is plugged in. If someone touches the plug (ie lifts cap and sticks fingers in it - like a kid) they are potentially getting zapped with 220 volts on a 50 amp plug. Someone could also plug in both chords and supply more power than your coach can safely handle. There needs to be a second transfer switch involved to only allow one plug to be energized at a time. If you do not have a generator in your coach then you can get away with only one transfer switch between the two plugs. If you have a built in generator, then you need a transfer switch between the generator input and one plug and then another transfer switch between that (generator/plug) input and the second plug. 2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift 2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard 2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan 2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage) 2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)My First Solar Install ThreadMy Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the buildMy MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet! chadheiser.com West Coast HDT Rally Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I see said the blind man. I am not sure what these come with for power connections, my trailer came with a cord wire nutted through the hole where a Plug was? I do industrial electrical controls among other things, I am using RussellStoll pin and sleeve connectors on the trailer. The female ends are what would be through the side of the trailer. These are not very common at capmgrounds I bet so, I have a cord made up with a male pin to a 14-50P. At my two primary locations I can access more current to run my electric appliances. The ends on the trailer have waterproof caps and are intrinsically safe for hot disconnect at up to 600 volts. Somebody would have to unscrew the cap and stick a 5+ inch long rod into a pin socket to shock themselves. I could put those cute little arc flash decals above the plugs! Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Heiser Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I see said the blind man. I am not sure what these come with for power connections, my trailer came with a cord wire nutted through the hole where a Plug was? I was referring to this type of RV plug. It is a standard 50 amp cord receptacle. As you can see, when the cover is lifted there are prongs that are exposed. If you simply "Y'd" the two power cords together with these type receptacles, the prongs on the unused receptacle would be energized and obviously very dangerous. 2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift 2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard 2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan 2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage) 2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)My First Solar Install ThreadMy Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the buildMy MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet! chadheiser.com West Coast HDT Rally Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 You can't just Y your two shore power cables together. This creates a dangerous issue in that the unused plug (either front of back) is energized when the other one is plugged in. If someone touches the plug (ie lifts cap and sticks fingers in it - like a kid) they are potentially getting zapped with 220 volts on a 50 amp plug. Someone could also plug in both chords and supply more power than your coach can safely handle. There needs to be a second transfer switch involved to only allow one plug to be energized at a time. If you do not have a generator in your coach then you can get away with only one transfer switch between the two plugs. If you have a built in generator, then you need a transfer switch between the generator input and one plug and then another transfer switch between that (generator/plug) input and the second plug. Exactly. Well stated. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 The connectors I am using are female receptacles on the trailer. I agree that with a male twist lock a dangerous condition exists. The device I am using is rated at 100 amps, 600 VAC, it would be possible to use two power posts at a commercial campground to power my trailer. The receptacles are covered with a screw on cap, they can be snugged down to the point where a tool is required to remove them. I know this is not a standard RV power scheme, I have a 10KW electric water heater and, 10KW stove. The generator switch I have is only rated to 12 KW so I need to replace it anyways. That said, I could not get parallel power without the Y or at least not without another cable with a Y. The power system works and is safe, it is not a typical RV system but, it is in accordance with the NEC. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Steve, since you are using female receptacles on the coach, does the male coach-end connector have exposed contacts. I am not familiar with the receptacle/connector you are using. Does it have a NEMA number on it. Charlie Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Hi Charlie, The pin and sleeve connectors have a shrouded male connector, they don't have a NEMA number. The connectors I am using are Russellstoll made by Thomas & Betts now. They are UL, CSA, TUV etc approved. NEMA descriptions reference connector devices that are designed for a particular voltage,pin and sleeve devices are rated to a max voltage AC and DC, usually 600 VAC and 250 DC. I will try and take some pictures of the connectors later today. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 What happens if you should decide to dual plug to two different campground posts and the 220 hot legs are reversed? Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 What happens if you should decide to dual plug to two different campground posts and the 220 hot legs are reversed? Always check phase orientation. I would check at EVERY place I went, even two different poles in the same place. The wye point at the two plugs is the most practical place to adjust the incoming line current. The L-1 L-2 would be the only change. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 I finally figured out how to post pictures inline here. Here are some pictures of the electrical connectors I am using, the female is going to mounted through the side of the basement and the male plugs have 50" of sealtight conduit. One plug has 6THHN the other has 3 THHN. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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