Jump to content

Stupid Fabrication on Generator Framing


hdonlybob

Recommended Posts

I also posted this in the General Information area, but thought the HDT crowd might understand it also...

 

Still having trouble finding the problem with my Generator...Have tracked down most everything listed on the internet info....as in brushes, checked all volt specs in the wiring, etc., fuel, and so on..

Not giving up, but reason for post today is that apparently at some point this generator must have been added.

Talk about a cobbled up frame to hold it...geesh...NO thought to getting the back cover off to see wiring and brushes....or removing it to work on..

What a mess.....this stuff really burns me up.... I have built a lot of stuff over the years, and never never would have done a stupid job like this..

We wound up cutting off a rear bracket and back plate to get to the area we needed...

Then to top it all off, just after we started it began to sprinkle...then..yep you guessed it...all out rain..

My buddy stayed under the Motor Home and kept working while I put a large piece of hard plastic over my head and still got drenched... :(

Look at the cobbled up framing on this job..

Cheers,

Bob

411299043.jpg

411299042.jpg

411299041.jpg

411299044.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob,

What is it doing/not doing? Maybe there is some assistance to be had.

Make and model will help, too. I will look for info in the general area and see if it has any pertinent data.

 

On edit:

I looked at your other post and saw the same thing as above. Did you post the symptoms somewhere else?

 

Chet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not a Honda generator expert. I owned an EV4010 in my old motorhome but it is gone. Forgive me if you know this stuff and I am preaching to the choir but for what it is worth, here it is.

 

Symptom: Engine starts, red light does not go out, engine dies as soon as the start switch is released.

 

If you have not yet replaced the brushes you might want to start with oil pressure and field current. The startup sequence goes like this:

1. Press and hold start switch

2. The control board sends 12 volts from the battery to ignition, fuel pump, choke heater (if equipped), start solenoid, and field flash.

3. Engine turns over and starts.

4. Oil pressure comes up and removes ground going to the control board.

5. Generator voltage comes up, creating a generated field current, and tells the control board to keep the engine running if oil pressure is good. Run light comes on.

6. Control voltage to the control board (4 & 5 above) cuts off 12 v battery to the starter solenoid AND field flash from the battery.

7. Release the start switch and the generator should still run.

There are two types of these generators:

Bridge rectifier type: Field current is created by a bridge rectifier that took the AC voltage from the generator (after the battery excited the rotor when holding the switch in), rectified it into DC and sent it to the rotor via the brushes to create self-generated voltage when the switch is released.

 

Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) type generators (pretty sure the EV6010 would be this type) use the AVR to create the field current and regulate the output through a combined effort of field strength and engine governed rpm.

 

This is what I would do:

Check the resistance at the oil pressure switch to chassis ground with the wire to the control board removed. It is usually at ground level. Mash the start button and insure the ground goes away. Replace the wire.

 

Next, if the oil pressure opens the switch, the next thing to look at is alternator output with the start switch mashed. Put an AC voltmeter on the output and mash the start switch. The battery will flash the field and create a nominal 80-120 volts out. If there is an output, the brushes, rotor, and stator are good. If the AC voltage goes away when you release the start switch then the problem is very likely the AVR (probably located in a control board of some sort).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good grief!!! What happened in that bottom photo?............................ :D

 

After being under my bosses dad's southwind, I'm not so sure that that is a afterthought instal. ? His southwind was on a john deere chassis. The fab work on many of the items underneath was appalling. Not much different than what you are seeing with your generator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not a Honda generator expert. I owned an EV4010 in my old motorhome but it is gone. Forgive me if you know this stuff and I am preaching to the choir but for what it is worth, here it is.

 

Symptom: Engine starts, red light does not go out, engine dies as soon as the start switch is released.

 

If you have not yet replaced the brushes you might want to start with oil pressure and field current. The startup sequence goes like this:

1. Press and hold start switch

2. The control board sends 12 volts from the battery to ignition, fuel pump, choke heater (if equipped), start solenoid, and field flash.

3. Engine turns over and starts.

4. Oil pressure comes up and removes ground going to the control board.

5. Generator voltage comes up, creating a generated field current, and tells the control board to keep the engine running if oil pressure is good. Run light comes on.

6. Control voltage to the control board (4 & 5 above) cuts off 12 v battery to the starter solenoid AND field flash from the battery.

7. Release the start switch and the generator should still run.

There are two types of these generators:

Bridge rectifier type: Field current is created by a bridge rectifier that took the AC voltage from the generator (after the battery excited the rotor when holding the switch in), rectified it into DC and sent it to the rotor via the brushes to create self-generated voltage when the switch is released.

 

Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) type generators (pretty sure the EV6010 would be this type) use the AVR to create the field current and regulate the output through a combined effort of field strength and engine governed rpm.

 

This is what I would do:

Check the resistance at the oil pressure switch to chassis ground with the wire to the control board removed. It is usually at ground level. Mash the start button and insure the ground goes away. Replace the wire.

 

Next, if the oil pressure opens the switch, the next thing to look at is alternator output with the start switch mashed. Put an AC voltmeter on the output and mash the start switch. The battery will flash the field and create a nominal 80-120 volts out. If there is an output, the brushes, rotor, and stator are good. If the AC voltage goes away when you release the start switch then the problem is very likely the AVR (probably located in a control board of some sort).

 

Thanks for the info.. my friend is the guru guy and has been checking all the voltages, etc..... I will give him this info to check out also...

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good grief!!! What happened in that bottom photo?............................ :D

 

After being under my bosses dad's southwind, I'm not so sure that that is a afterthought instal. ? His southwind was on a john deere chassis. The fab work on many of the items underneath was appalling. Not much different than what you are seeing with your generator.

 

Deezl...yep good picture of Ol' Bob trying to keep dry.....that piece of heavy plastic actually had about a 4" drilled hole in it pretty close to the center, so it balanced on my head pretty good...as long as the wind didn't get too strong...

I was sitting on my handicap scooter, scurrying back and forth from my garage getting different wrenches and stuff for him...new use for the scooter that really helped a lot. Saved a lot of pain on my legs and back today.... :)!!

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out pinnelas power you tube video's as that will help understand this unit and its operation. then call pinnelas Power once you have followed his diagnostics.

Also that frame looks like it is the same as the generator that I worked on.

 

 

safe Travels, Vern

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob,

How is the generator repair coming? The Pinellas Power videos were superb. They should be watched starting with "Honda EV6010 no start 1.mpg". The video is very informative. They were lengthy but it took that much time to take us through all the possibilities even though the open wires and the number of them in one case is not likely. After watching, I put together a document (giving credit to Pinellas) that can be carried to the generator. This document ties the reading and test points to the wiring diagram in the owner's manual.

 

If anyone is interested in the Word document, send me a PM.

 

Chet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My friend who is working on the Generator will be here again this next week, and he understands as well as has the tools to follow up on your comments.

I have forwarded to him all the comments and advise here, much of which he has already checked out.

I really appreciate all the comments and help...this is a really great forum.

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

Our program provides accurate individual wheel weights for your RV, toad, and tow vehicle, and will help you trim the pounds if you need to.

Dish For My RV.

RV Cable Grip

RV Cable Grip

All the water you need...No matter where you go

Country Thunder Iowa

Nomad Internet

Rv Share

RV Air.

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...