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This is a thrift store find my wife purchased Safe Travels, Vern

Try it where it is sitting if possible. Simple test. Vern

I have made a little progress on this rifle. This rifle is being built as a early Hawken rifle. About 1830 or so. It originally had a flint ignition. But it has been converted to percussion. Yes that is a scope on the side. About 1850 there were scopes first put on a rifle. I am building it mostly by hand. The scope mounting is my own design. Thinking about how it would have been done back in that time period. The mounting of the rear of the scope was silver soldered together. And has a elevation arm for long range shooting. This is a photo of the scope mount being fitted. And designing the elevation arm? Slowly, Vern

Thank you for the detail on this project. I would not of thought of the magic marker idea. Also on using 3 m window weld. I was going to use locative roof and flashing sealer. It is polyurethane based. But over the past few years it has changed in its curing time that was going to be a problem for this project. It will be a few weeks till I get to this, but I will keep posted on this subject. Thanks greatly, Vern

What did you seal them with. Just curious Vern

Well I have admit I finally got the symptoms of it. The doc says yes, I do have it. He suggested I get a shot in each cheek. Just to be sure it will not come back. So normally I do not sit down very much. Either working for someone or doing my stuff. Fishing hiking or outdoor stuff. So this situation we are in has caused me and my wife to be holed up inside mostly. At least in April. My situation is improving as I get out and do more stuff. I have been doing projects inside for awhile but they are getting caught up. The weather has finally got so I can do more stuff outside. I do have a whole summer of stuff to do outside this summer. The doc says I have the Sore Ass Syndrome??? Yes I do have it from sitting down so much. It’s raining, I am tired of it raining and it has been cool. So all that stuff has had me sitting on my cheeks way too much. I have been tying flys for fishing. Rivers are swollen so more time on my cheeks.until I can go fishing. It’s so bad my wife wants to take trash to the dump every other day. She never ever went to the dump before. Have a good and stay safe wherever your are. Vern

First thing I would say is a Tiffen should have sufficient material in the wall. As in the wall itself should be fairly strong for this project. You could remove the interior window trim to investigate as to what is there. Do not push out on the window so you do not break the seal or have the window fall. Remove the screws slowly and it should come off easy. You May see there is framing there that may extend up for support. The other thing is to look early in the morning at the side of the rv wall. See if you can see the framework showing up from dew on the exterior. Also with putting adhesive behind the awning base it will grip the whole area. Also look for other Tiffen coach’s to see if they put them on other units. Even look online at units for sale to see if they have window awnings .I have worked on several through the years and it could be done. There are brass inserts that could be installed to help also fit attaching it to the wall. You could use 3m 5200 for adhesive and sealer. Never to get the base off again. Other adhesives could be used. Some thoughts,,, Vern

I am curious if anyone else has tried it. Vern

This winter project was delayed to this summer. Just to many other things got it the way. But I am aleast going to try one window. If it works then I will do more. I will keep you informed, Vern

If I remember correctly( Airxcel which makes those units) told me to make sure that the ac unit is not touching anything that would put stress on that base. Yes I have seen a few of those problem. I had one that the fan broke which made the motor vibrate and broke all the mounts. When I looked in the motor was laying on its side. You may use some goop which is a strong glue that never gets real hard. But is really tough. It may assist in trying to mount the motor again. Safe Travels, Vern

If you are still having problems with 12vdc power. You need to go find, borrow or buy a 12vdc battery charger that can charge at least 10 amps. And find, borrow, or buy a electric meter that you can test 12vdc and 120 vac. Hook the 12vdc charger up to the rv batteries. So now you should be able to survive until things are figured out. Once u have the charger hooked up and operating, get back to us on the forum for the next step. Vern

I have worked on the metal parts some lately. I have most of the pieces in there final shape. So they have been outside in some rain and sun. But not rusting very fast. I do want the natural brown finish on then. So I put then in salt water to watch the progress. I did figure out to cast the end cap on the stock in place. I sure did take a air amount of time to mount it and shape it to size. Doing other stuff lately that I have been wanting to do. Patients please Vern

If you look around behind the water heater there probably is a small brown wire with little wires inside. These are signal wires. They connect to the white orange blue and green wires. As in the diagram. They connect the wall switch to the heater. They may be color coded the same . They may not. Is there a romex 110 volt ac wire already connected to a black plastic box on the back of the water heater. That gives 110 volt shore power to the water heater. The yellow wire goes to that black plastic box on the back of the water heater. Hopefully they is a yellow wire on the outside of that box. Be sure to have the breaker off for the water heater. A volt meter is a almost a must. This will tell us if you feel comfortable with finding these wires and where they go. If so we can continue. Vern

We are hiding at the end of a gravel lane in Montana. We have been here a month so far. We have had snow and 17 degrees once. But we have seen 68 degrees also. Sunny today. So may work in the garden some. Also have been out fishing once. More of that next week for sure. Planning some back country trips into the mountains this summer. That will be with our van. So this situation has required me to retire. Yep I did it. With being at the end of a gravel road and no customers knowing where we are at. I can go outside and know not one customer is going to be knocking on my door. Or stand there waiting for me to stop my project to go help them. As long as we all can get over this situation we find our selves in, we will travel again. Safe Travels, Vern

Available at most rest stops. Cut to size as required. Comes in a variety of colors. Some may have side effects of unknowns consequences. Is available in scratch less Also available in varying scratching grades. Some will vary in thickness. I would be cautious about desert variety. Just Incase things get on short supply, Vern

So this looks like it may be time for me to retire. I have enough stuff to keep me busy for the summer on my own projects. Learning how to tie flies for fly fishing. So fishing is allowed in Montana. Now if there are only a few visitors here this summer that is fine with us. i have been out once fishing in this Swan River. But several more trips this summer are planned. We have been working on the garden. Just planted a few things yesterday. I am looking for toilet paper seeds. If anyone knows of a source please send info. Or do they grow on trees. Also going to learn to cast some metal this summer. Will keep everyone informed on that subject in the hobby forum. Now I do need to sort out what rv repair parts I do have for my own future needs. That will take a few days. Maybe strip the Jeep down and paint it again. It does have over 300,000 miles on it. Food supply is high on our list to stay ahead of. everyone out there stay safe, Vern

If you need a mobile rv repair done, will you allow a technician to work on your unit? Will you find a mobile rv repair technician that is willing to work on your unit? I have suspended all my work until there is universal testing. Vern

Replace all fuses. Do not pull fuses and reinstall. Check and clean all 12vdc connections. Just by chance do you have another fridge in another rv that night have a gas valve coil that you could swop. Does the gas try to ignite at all wen you have problems Check all ground connections. I would even put a ground wire from the common battery ground to the burner area on the gas valve area. Disconnect the one wire to the gas valve while working the burner assembly as follows.Also while your there remove the gas burner tube. Empty the rust from the tube. Clean the slots where the propane comes out for the flame. Put a clean paper towel under the gas nozzle. Pull the gas nozzle out. Turn the nozzle over and see it anything falls out. Clean the gas nozzle. Do not use anything to poke the hole in the oriface. Just carb clean or similar Is the igniter in good shape. Clean it if it looks green it may fall apart. Then gas pressure testing just a thought, Vern

This is sorta a notice to RVers that normally do not do there own repairs. It just mite be a good time to start planning if something happens and they cannot get someone to fix it. What do I need to have with me to at least get it operating. I can see there are going to be some problems with this subject. So if you are in a rv you may want to start thinking differently about solving your problem your self. So we left Arizona early because of the Covid19. I had a few customers ask me about doing repairs for them while I was packing to leave. I could not help them. Just tried to explain what I could so they mite be able to fix it them selves. So mobile rv repair may be a problem to perform in the near future. I do not want to be in a rv that I do not know if the viruse is there. The rv owner may not want someone working on or in there rv that could have the virus. So I have decided to stop my RV repair business. At least for the foreseeable future so that everyone can take some time to reconsider the situation at our front doorstep. Be carful in your travels, Vern

Yes thanks, Vern

I found this listing on compendium.com. But it will not open as I thought. I am not a computer person so someone else may be able to find it. Safe Travels, Vern

I just found this subject on the net. State By State Campground Closures & Responses To COVID-19 Vern

We are now somewhere in the middle of Montana. No customers to stop by and pester me while I am playing with this project. So I do want to finish this rifle and now will have time to complete it. There is a machine shop for my use nearby but trying to do this by hand. Next time that I get to Home Depot I will get sand and plaster to build a forge for melting German silver for the next rifle. I do have green sand for making multiple castings, but that will be used after I build a forge. I have a applewood blank to make the next rifle out of and the hardware on that gun will be made of German silver. It will be 54 caliber Hawken style rifle also. Fly fishing may slow up this project. Along with some honeydo projects. And gardening. Will keep posted on progress. Stay Safe this summer, Vern

When the water heater tries to ignite the gas valve has to open. You can test this by hearing it open with a soft thud sound. And by putting a finger on it, it should have a small amount of movement internally and be able to be felt with the finger. At the same time the igniter should spark. You state that the light does not come on when the heater is switched on. With those statements I would suggest to replace the fuse to the water heater. Then if that does not work there is a reset for both gas and electric control thermostats. They are under the rubber seals at the upper area of the water heater on the outside. If that does not work you need a volt meter. Turn the electric water heater breaker off as there is 110 volts under that cover. Remove that cover. Put your meter on ac voltage and test the thermostats for ac voltage. Just to make sure. Then switch the meter to dc voltage and test both wire ends on the thermostats. Those thermostats actually have a operating temperature thermostat and a high limit thermostat. They are both on the same metal base. With a wire connecting them. Just a start, Vern

Just curious if anyone is having a problem with there fridge. I am talking about a Norcold n10 lx series fridge. This one will work on gas but not electric. The control board passes full incoming voltage . Operates on 2.25 amps, but will not cool the fridge for ice to form on the fins in the fridge. With same voltage directly to the element it forms ice on te bottom of the fins in the fridge. But the quart size container on the rear of the fridge does not get hot as it should. Looking for solutions for this customer, Vern