Wrknrvr

Chains mite be a better bet. Nothing like getting out of a bad situation and unhooking the pulling unit. Get everything out of the way and still stuck. I finally had to buy a used set for possibly being stuck 100’ from pavement. It was well past time to go south, so I found a set and bought them. Now I have a place for storage of steel things as I carry a welder also. Now there could be a time when you could just lay the chains on the ground and drive out from a small problem. Also chains will work when only one driver is available. Or no pulling unit is available. Just my thought, Vern

The windows will also help with seeing out for driving at odd angles. Such as in parking lots or maneuvering in camp grounds. I waited 10 years to do ours. Wife did not want the windows, but I showed up one day with two from a Motorhome. Now it would be a must have for another truck. So you will like them when driving. Nice job, Vern

It is possible the 12vdc disconnect switch is turned of. Or it is bad. Both will cause what you are describing. Do you 12vdc lights work when not plugged into shore power. Just a quick thought, Vern

Just curious if you have solved your drainage problem . So that bottle with grease in it sitting on the back of my truck is still there. I did lay it on its side. Then I did just shake it back and forth twice for a very short time. Then noticed it has broken up into small pieces and is just sitting there. It does get sun during the day so it does get warm. I think in its present stage it would mostly flush out of the system. Just a thought, Vern

I believe the new model I am talking about is a AFMD series. They maybe some with different vent openings . This may be an attempt to correct the problem. If you search the net for problems on this model you can find some more info that is interesting to read.. trying to give help for the problem, Vern

I just want to clear up this situation about the igniter board. The new Atwood furnace is what I think causes the board problem. Not the board itself. As I have removed the cover on the outside of the furnace and there can be moisture on the board. And how did that moisture get there. That is correct that I have seen water on the igniter board. No water lines in the area. Now I think they may have changed the exterior cover design. To help with the situation. Just my thoughts,, Vern

In my experience with the new style Atwood furnace they do have a board problem. I am a Dometic/Atwood dealer. I have stumble through a number of this style furnaces that have board problems. What I have seen is moisture on the board when the humidity is high. And it corrodes the board and or connections. I think this is because of the location of the board being located towards the intake area on the blower, next to the burn chamber blower wheel. The opposite end of the heating blower wheel is where the old style furnaces locate the igniter board. And the old board location had interior air flow over it but at a much less restricted area. Then lowering the moisture separation problem. With the location of the board where the factory has it, makes the moisture in the air form a vapor trail. Then it condenses on the board. I have seen replacement boards on the new style furnaces fail in two months time. Now I have done some testing on old style Atwood furnaces and discovered the the seal on the inside of the exterior cover may not seal completely. I have two old style Atwood furnaces in our fifthwheel and they both leaked air past that seal that separates the interior from the exterior air. I then installed a screw to hold the center of the cover tight against the seal and the brace it seals to. Pull your cover and see if the seal fits tight or not. I have not tested any new style furnaces for that air leak. I getting close to retirement so working on the new style Atwood furnaces has ended for me. I had some discussions with Atwood on the problems that unit has so I will not work on them at all. Now if I was stuck with one of those I would? 1. Try a Dinosaur board. 2. Try to talk to Dinosaur about the problem. 3. Locate the board at another location. 4. My personal thing to do is to buy a old style furnace and install it where your original on is located. If you find a solution please let the members on this forum know what you did. Safe Travels, Vern

I have seen that buildup in the 3” drain line when we use a macerator pump over time. I did discover using Simple Green dissolves it with a little time. this is grease from a ham that we had for thanks giving. The grease was put in the container Friday am and set outside till yesterday morning. Notice how it is sticking to the side of the glass. so this photo is about 4 hours later. All I did was to add some Simple Green. It has stayed in the same spot since it was sit there. There is only water, pork grease and simple green in the bottle. I will take a photo in a little while to see if the thinness has changed. Hope this is helpful, Vern

When you get it flowing again I would suggest using Simple Green cleaner to clean the inside of the tank, just pour about 3 cups into the sink and flush down with 10 or so gallons of water. Do this with the valve closed. It is a degreaser that takes time to work. I would do several treatments. It will get rid of that scum inside the pipes and in the tank. I just did our gray water tank today as the bathroom sink was slow going down yesterday. No swearing today on that job, Vern

I am thinking that there is a leak somewhere that is possibly traveling on top of the adhesive that holds the tile down. As Rickeieio is saying, although it may sound impossible. I would be looking for an extremely small leak somewhere. A remote camera would be helpful to locate that leak. Another trick I have found to locate a leak is to wrap some paper towel around fittings and check occasionally. Yesterday I was on a service call for two water leeks after some heavy rain. First leak was a Maxxair vent cover that looks good, but the lip away from the hinge is warped by 3/16”. Put pure silicone on the seal, closed the lid and opened it. The seal did not transfer silicone all the way across the lid. Need to install a new lid. Second leek came out from under a interior wall at a corner. It only leaked after the heavy rain. Looking around the roof and really no sealant problems that I could find. But above the wall where the leak was, possibly from a satellite junction box. Remove cover and notice the seal which is like a square ring that goes around the entire box felt dry. So I pulled the seal out and lubed it with pure silicone before installing. It will get tested this week to see just a thought, Vern

I want to add to the above way of finding your problem. Tracing back 12vdc to the fuse panel is a good way to check for that wire. You may need to remove all the fuses on the panel to find the one that is powered from the fridge area. You may have a connection problem where the 12vdc connects to the wire at the fridge. You may have a connection problem where that wire connects at the fuse panel. You may have a problem some where in that wire. You may have a connection problem in the fuse holder on the fuse panel. You may have a fuse that looks good, test good but may not pass power. Now you may have more than one problem and that would make you think. My thoughts,. Vern

That's warm compared to our temps. Vern

The result is rving in 1 degree temps. We are warm and watching travel route for our soon departure from Montana. I have got to quit this blank work thing. It interrupts our play time. Safe Travels,. Vern

I would open the back of the fridge area so you can see what is happening. Remove the tin shroud covering the burner area a least enough to see the igniter. Then turn the temperature as low as possible on the unit. Now put one finger on the gas valve to test for operation. If the gas valve is working you should feel a small movement on the valve body. At the same time watch the igniter to see if it is sparking. While doing the first test notice if you can smell gas. This does depend if it is calling for operation. One should have a ac amp meter on the heating wire to see if it calling for operation. A poor mans version could be to watch the electric meter on the Rv electrical power post. If it spins faster when 110vac is plugged in at the fridge then it is calling for operation. If it is not then the gas test will not work. So if it is not calling for operation on 110 vac then go in side to the fridge. The thermistor needs warmed up to make the unit call for operation. Warm rag or fingers will work on thermistor. Now if you have valve operation and igniter operation the wind may have moved rust that has accumulated in the tube that the gas comes out of. No that may sound strange but I see that occasionally. To test for rust you really should cover the opening where the gas comes out of the line. Then take a small flexible tube and bllow through it to push the rust back out of the tube where the flame normally is. Just push air into the slots where the gas burns at.Then take a small pick or something to make sure the slots where the gas comes out for the flame . Then blow that dirt out also. If there is spark at the igniter to the burner tube and the valve is acting like it is working. Then some rust may have blown back into the oriface on the gas line. Remove and clean with air and solvent........ Absolutely do not put a fisical object into the gas oriface. When I do this I make sure to have a white paper towel under the area to see what falls out. There may be gas coming out of the oriface but not at the correct amount to provide ignition. That should get a few answers to go on. Vern

You could remove the whole unit. Lay it on the floor on its side. And look at it for a day, just sitting there. Just had to be funny. It may burp or simply correct its self. It may not. Pull the cover off the burner and look for yellow substance. I had one years ago that had just a trace of yellow behind the metal cover over the burner tube. Any yellow and it needs a new cooling unit. Vern

There is a bottle shape container in the cooling system. It should be about a foot from the bottom of the fridge on the back side. Laying horizontal. It is in the refrigerator cooling system as you can see piping going to and out of it. When the cooling unit is working properly and is operating, the bottle shaped container should be hot enough that you cannot keep your had on it. Although you can touch it for a few seconds. If it is not hot , then the cooling unit is plugged. And no cooling. Just a thought,. Vern

Another fairly simple thing to do if your Rv has the ability is to run extra ducts into the lower area. Many Rv gas furnaces do not use all the duct openings on the furnace. Also some rv's have more than on furnace. Ours has two furnaces, but I could only run one extra duct into the basement under the rear of the fifthwheel. The other thing is to partially block some heat ducts that produce more heat but is not needed as much as others. I have also duct heat into the storage area under the bedroom and then have a few 4" holes in the floor hidden somewhere. The first one I had two 4" openings under the bed. Then had a few 4" openings towards the front of the Rv on the side of the bed. The idea to get heat under the floor will make the whole Rv much more comfortable. In cold weather. Just a thought, Vern

. Just had to post this. . A single lady had this setup. She finds a dock to unload the car when needed. safe Travels,. Vern

Noticed this unit a few years ago in Montana. it is possible,. Vern

This picture shows hitch extended to make clearances for fifthwheel. just a thought,. Vern

We do pull a fifthwheel we cannot turn 90 degrees

Hauling a Jeep Wrangler at a angle. just how I haul a vehicle. Safe Travels,. Vern

The road goes from Wisdom Montana south and eventually connects to I 15. It is not listed as a truck route, but it looks good from aerial photos. So has anyone travel this with there truck and fifthwheel. If so is there any problems. I will watch for snow if we go that way. Thanks,. Vern

I tried to help. Although a few weeks ago I did see a truck that looked similar at a equipment sales lot. I did not have time to stop and look. Ok I am wrong I quess,. Vern

Columbia Falls Montana listing. if you look on Craigslit in Kalispell Mt under heavy equipment there is a interesting rig for sale. I tried to copy and paste but it did not work. Just saying, Vern