rickeieio

Wouldn't placing an 1 1/2" board under 1 wheel raise the coach 3/4"? It always has for us.

For the most part, I agree with Chad, but sometimes you don't have the correct thickness board or other leveling device to put under all tires. Putting slightly different thickness under tires shouldn't matter much, depending on what axles you have. We put up to 1 1/2" ( 2x10) different thickness under adjacent axles/tires, but no more.

Lawrence, it's only "invisible" to the idiots who pull out in front of us.😉 And for others, referring to the mention of headlights, there's no such thing as "DOT approved" lights. The DOT sets standards, and it's up to the manufacturer to be in compliance. Nobody actually checks whether they're telling the truth on the packaging. Putting a led bulb in will likely make more light, but if the focal point isn't in the correct position, it may be aimed incorrectly, blinding other traffic, or spreading the light too close to the vehicle. Don't blame it on led's, but rather poor design and quality control.

A couple years ago, the local hardware store had rough service 100w bulbs cheap. I bought all they had for use around the shop in trouble lamps and to use for a heat source (thaw water pipes, etc.). But, I also use fluorescents in trouble lamps in warmer months. They all have their place, and it's not every place. For general lighting, I lean towards led's. The instant "on", and quality of light are big points for me.

Now I have coffee on my keyboard.🤣

Paper maps are my choice for navigating, but as much as I hate to admit it, a gps is nice to show you what lanes to occupy in a strange city. Thar said, we did 15 weeks and 22 states on the road in the past 12 months, and never got out the RM 7720 gps. We do have an iPad........

Correct, but not by much. Hurry up and retire so we can go play. Besides, it's hard to type when you have Shrek fingers.....

Somewhere on the differential housing, off center and also below center, you'll find a plug. It's normally on the back, but not always. Usually it has a 1/2" square depression into which you install a 1/2" drive ratchet handle or breaker bar. Poke a finger in there and see where the level might be. The oil level should be just to the bottom of the hole with the truck sitting level. Don't sweat it if it's a 1/4" low. This level lets the oil slosh back and forth to/from the wheel bearing out at the ends, assuring it gets "exchanged" a bit.

It looks to me like the clear portion of the cap has print indicating the correct level. I think it would show correctly if you rotate the wheel so the fill port is at the top. I think it's called an "oil bath hub". The purpose of this "reservoir", is to bathe the wheel bearings in oil. They usually take 80w-90 gear oil. It looks like Tom types faster than I.

Steve, I thought I was the only one that anal.....

We had a similar issue in our Newmar 5er. The leak was at the solenoid which supplied the ice maker. Small leak, but it would make a puddle in the middle of the kitchen floor.

Just shows the goal was "WOW" factor, rather making something that actually works. There's a lot more reflective surface on a "blower" than on a turbo housing.😜 Or, in this case, more surface area on which to apply lipstick, but it's still just a big pig.

Glass will NEVER decompose. while plastics do, but some do it very slowly. Tin is an element, thus it will degrade, but never decompose. Regardless, both conventional and led's take up space in landfills, but led's will take up far less.

But I AM grandpa, and grandma goes where I go.

Now that's pretty cool. Nice touches would be: delete visor, integrate mufflers as running boards, maybe some front fenders with rears to match. But that's all personal preference.

Moot point. I've never heard of anyone recycling light bulbs. I've replaced a few lights w/ led's. The fixtures in the shop made a huge difference. I put all led's on the truck bed when I built it, and have converted a few tractor lights to led too. The price is coming down dramatically.

I have many times. It makes the electric meter go round and round..... Even plugged in for hours, you radiator will be cold, because the thermostat prevents flow until the coolant reaches a certain temp, usually near 190*f or there abouts. That said, the warm water in the block is available for the heater core, once the water pump is spinning. As Jim pointed out, a warm motor gets happy much quicker.

I believe the cross-over acts as a siphon, equalizing the tanks to level, rather than equal, so if you're parked w/ one tank lower, it can flow whether the truck is running or not. That said, I ain't a truck expert, but have owned a few. I know all three of our Macks may overflow when recently filled and parked on the edge of a field.

Block heaters are generally 1500 watts, and have no thermostat. That means they draw roughly 14 amps of 110v current as long as they're plugged in. Generally, an hour or so is sufficient to warm up a small motor like most of us are using. Keep in mind, the heater only heats the coolant, not the oil which is down in the pan. Diesels aren't all the same in how they cold start, plus, if the starter, cables, or battery(s) aren't up to task, the motor won't spin fast enough to start when cold. I have a farm tractor that from new, needed ether to start below 40*f. After years and years, I refurbished the starter, replaced ALL the cables with larger gauge, and replaced the 2 -6v w/ 3- 12v batteries. It now starts at 20*f as if it were summer time.

It's already been said by Sculptor elsewhere, but I believe it deserves it's own topic. We have much for which to be thankful. On our last trip to the Grand Canyon area, then on to the National rally, we found ourselves commenting to each other how lucky we are to be able to enjoy this great and free land, and meet so many fine folks. Lets hope we can continue for a long time.

If you read the text on the link provided, it says there are 4 cameras and 4 screens to see ahead. For a bit less $$$$, you put a few baby Cummins up there and make more HP.

That thing belongs in the encyclopedia under "Fuggly".

Ho-hum, here I go, preaching to the choir. I've lost trailer brakes too many times. (once is too many...) Broken wire under the trailer, dislodged trailer cord, faulty ground, outright brake controller failure, etc. While these events are inconvenient when towing with "enough truck", they're probably not dangerous. My quest for "more truck" started when we were pulling a pop-up with a srw F-250. The trailer brakes were junk, and going down Wolf Creek Pass I had both feet on the brake pedal. Wife and kids didn't know until we were stopped. Certainly not all trailers justify a HDT. But why tow without a safety margin for when things go wrong? Too much truck is about right.😁

If you are in the area, there's a road that runs down a canyon from near Monticello, UT to near Blanding, called Montezuma Creek Rd. This canyon was frequented by the Dalton Gang, and some of their descendants still ranch there. We drove most of it in our smart, but came to deeply rutted sand near the south end. Not having a shovel, I chickened out.

My 17.5 Sailuns were made in Vietnam. Still not a "clean" place, but they do seem to be good tires. Time will tell. If they're as good as my 11.00R22.5 drives, I'll be happy.