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Abandoning the interior valves in favor of adding exterior valves may bite you later. Sometimes you can't avoid being in freezing weather. A few years ago, we were headed south and ran into freezing rain on I-10 between NOLA and Houston. We were lucky to duck into a campground just before they closed the interstate, and had two mornings with temps in the teens. There are reasons those valves are buried......

Funny how typing in the dark can result in some interesting slips. I'm involved in a motorcycle club, and one time when we were having hotly contested elections, I referred to them as "erections"..........

So, would you care to share the info?

Ya got me. I won't correct it, just to prove how really dumb I can be.

Unfortunately we seldom encounter rear "parts men" (or women) these days. So often, if they can't find it in a couple minutes on the computer, it's "not available".

That's the same as the wording for our rv fridge in our unit. I don't loose sleep over being a bit out of level. Heck, I've been told I'm half a bubble off anyway.

I believe it's a trend. Just watch the evening news and weather, Sensationalism is much more important than accuracy. I try to avoid news or weather that has advertising, as their primary purpose is to generate $$.

Ah, the compromises of rv'ing. The more comforts and toys we bring, the harder it is to maneuver tight places. One of the worst places we've gotten ourselves into was a grocery in the pan-handle of FL last winter. My logic is, delivery trucks can do it, so can I. Duh, delivery trucks go to the BACK of the store. Out front was full of low trees and traffic islands. At least I wasn't drunk, and going the wrong way.

Duh, that's what I meant. It's not as simple as it would seem......😉

Just to add a little fuel to the fire....... If one were to buy a LED unit and it lasts perhaps 10 years under intermittent use, you can expect the price of electric to go up in that time, extending the payback period. But, you say, you don't buy electric, because you stay in an RV park where it's included, or boondock. RV park owners WILL raise prices to recover that expense, and with solar you still want to reduce wattage consumption. It's not as simple as it would seem.

Having a tri-axle, we played the block game to get it on the money, but after setting up a very unlevel site in Bandera, TX last winter, in rain at 36*, by myself, we had a bigfoot system installed. The only blocks are under the feet.

Wouldn't placing an 1 1/2" board under 1 wheel raise the coach 3/4"? It always has for us.

For the most part, I agree with Chad, but sometimes you don't have the correct thickness board or other leveling device to put under all tires. Putting slightly different thickness under tires shouldn't matter much, depending on what axles you have. We put up to 1 1/2" ( 2x10) different thickness under adjacent axles/tires, but no more.

Lawrence, it's only "invisible" to the idiots who pull out in front of us.😉 And for others, referring to the mention of headlights, there's no such thing as "DOT approved" lights. The DOT sets standards, and it's up to the manufacturer to be in compliance. Nobody actually checks whether they're telling the truth on the packaging. Putting a led bulb in will likely make more light, but if the focal point isn't in the correct position, it may be aimed incorrectly, blinding other traffic, or spreading the light too close to the vehicle. Don't blame it on led's, but rather poor design and quality control.

A couple years ago, the local hardware store had rough service 100w bulbs cheap. I bought all they had for use around the shop in trouble lamps and to use for a heat source (thaw water pipes, etc.). But, I also use fluorescents in trouble lamps in warmer months. They all have their place, and it's not every place. For general lighting, I lean towards led's. The instant "on", and quality of light are big points for me.

Now I have coffee on my keyboard.🤣

Paper maps are my choice for navigating, but as much as I hate to admit it, a gps is nice to show you what lanes to occupy in a strange city. Thar said, we did 15 weeks and 22 states on the road in the past 12 months, and never got out the RM 7720 gps. We do have an iPad........

Correct, but not by much. Hurry up and retire so we can go play. Besides, it's hard to type when you have Shrek fingers.....

Somewhere on the differential housing, off center and also below center, you'll find a plug. It's normally on the back, but not always. Usually it has a 1/2" square depression into which you install a 1/2" drive ratchet handle or breaker bar. Poke a finger in there and see where the level might be. The oil level should be just to the bottom of the hole with the truck sitting level. Don't sweat it if it's a 1/4" low. This level lets the oil slosh back and forth to/from the wheel bearing out at the ends, assuring it gets "exchanged" a bit.

It looks to me like the clear portion of the cap has print indicating the correct level. I think it would show correctly if you rotate the wheel so the fill port is at the top. I think it's called an "oil bath hub". The purpose of this "reservoir", is to bathe the wheel bearings in oil. They usually take 80w-90 gear oil. It looks like Tom types faster than I.

Steve, I thought I was the only one that anal.....

We had a similar issue in our Newmar 5er. The leak was at the solenoid which supplied the ice maker. Small leak, but it would make a puddle in the middle of the kitchen floor.

Just shows the goal was "WOW" factor, rather making something that actually works. There's a lot more reflective surface on a "blower" than on a turbo housing.😜 Or, in this case, more surface area on which to apply lipstick, but it's still just a big pig.

Glass will NEVER decompose. while plastics do, but some do it very slowly. Tin is an element, thus it will degrade, but never decompose. Regardless, both conventional and led's take up space in landfills, but led's will take up far less.

But I AM grandpa, and grandma goes where I go.