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Well, I'm proposing buying tires and having the polishing done at that time. Does anyone know if there's a good tire shop in the Hutch area?

As we were installing Crossfires today, I mentioned to Susan that sometime in the not too distant future, we'll need to put new shoes on the rear of the POPEMOBILE. It would make sense to polish the wheels while everything's apart. It would make even more sense, if several of us could have this done at the HDT rally in October, and perhaps cut a group deal. Any ideas out there?

Why not? Laxatves can contribute to weight loss.........

Give some retired DOT officer a few minutes and he'd have it permanently out of service........ Even a dumb old retired farmer can spot a host of violations.

We're 70'. 43' of that is trailer. We rarely have an issue in campgrounds, and have never had to leave a park, always fit it in. That said, I've had a couple of "challenging" spots. It's fun when all the neighbors stand and point, knowing it'll take a while, and you nail it first time. Rule #1, never screw up in front of an audience. 😁 Seriously, while the wheelbases and geometry is different from a dually, it'll do pretty much the same thing, in the same space, with a little practice.

Only 507#? Holy smokes! We bust that number every time we get in it. Susan's gonna have to get a smaller purse....................🤔

Nahhh,, just register the smart as a mh, and keeo it under 65' oal.😜

Some time back, broncohauler did a post on polishing tanks and other things. He mentioned wheels, sandaper grits, and polishing compounds., A search might get you something.

Vern, I have one word for you...........sulkey.

Pretty good deduction there Dave. I would have to say that's the likely scenario. On another note, keep in mind that Loctite uses the same colors for different strengths of thread locker. Just saying "red" can mean very different things........ For example, red 242 and red 271 are very different things.

In Ohio and Indiana, the length is limited by the fact that an rv is part of the equation. Doesn't matter what the non-commercial tow vehicle might be, 65' for rv's regardless of what else is hooked up. All bets are off if the total rig is running under commercial regs.

I've had new tires shake......that's what comes to mind. There's not much else in the system, no drive shaft or such. How many miles?

Just about any Cummins found in our trucks has had an ag equivalent. Deere uses the ISX at around 650 ponies, but painted green and "Made in China" on the side of the block. I had a Versatile Bi-Directional w/ a 4 cyl. B Cummins. (noteven, I know what you folks call that tractor)

When youy checked the torque, did the bolts move? Even a little bit? If so, the Loctite was done, and the bolt could back out. Hope it all turns out well.

X2 on Darryl's suggestion. But, I typically use another Loctite product, hydraulic thread sealant. Either is much better than teflon tape.

All the above answers refer to fuel additives, but your question may be about engine oil. So, I used to use an engine oil friction modifier. It caused issues. I now use oil straight from the container. As to fuel, we use a lot of diesel. Used to buy in tanker load lots. I never doctored it, and never had an issue. YMMV.

If you ever saw Vern's "service truck", you'd understand. He's got a lot of stuff in a small package.

I behaved pretty well at the ECR. I'm not sure I can do it again........

So, now I'm not last.......😜

I procrastinated, and registered today. The site made me fill in the sizes to order the t shirts, so you might need to correct that. See at Hutch!

You need more info. Is that 3500# pin with the full rated garage load, or empty? You will have a big teeter-toter (🤣) so you can play with water tank loading, etc. We have a 770, and a Newmar X-Aire, supposed to be 41' but the tape measure says 43'. We carry a car, and over all length is 64' 72". Our pin weight is fine (roughly 23% of total gross), but I don't know the advertised specs. We carry a total of about 1800# of bikes plus too much other stuff. Our rated gross trailer weight is 21,000#.

I would still weld the nuts, becuase it can be a PITA reaching under the dirty bed to hold them. I made that misteak the first time around. If you are not relying on the floor as anchor points, then it's simple to use smaller bolts. Heck, 1/4" would be fine. I'm no enjinear, but I would think it would be silly to use bolts bigger than the floor thickness, unless you use big fender washers to spread loads.

I gots my nomex undies on, so I'm prepared for some disagreement............ I prefer more, but smaller bolts. That helps reduce the metal drum effect. But, I have to ask, will there be anchors or tie down points added? Will they be bolted through the cross members too? I used 3/8" bolts on my removeable sections. I welded nuts under the cross members. I plan to swap out the hex heads for button head stainless at some point, just to reduce trip hazard.

You still don't have full boost. I believe the ISX makes around 30-35# max. Bad sensor makes sense....

Good question. I have the lines that came on my work truck when I bought it in 2007. I also have a spare set in the shop, waiting. If they're in the shade when parked, they'll last a long time.