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Furnace problem


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I have a question. I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder with a Suburban furnace SF model. I have fixed the grounding block, taped up the spark unit that's on the circuit board, and cleaned up all of the connections. The thing works great during the day, unless it's cold out, and then I have the same problem, but at night, like every other time it kicks on, it will not light and blow cold. I turn it off and back on and it lights and blows warm. I can't understand why it doesn't work and then works again 2 minutes later. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
 

 

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my guess is circuit board, its not lighting 1st time. It will try 3 times and then you have to reset, So circuit board/igniter/ propane. Try cleaning the tube where propane goes to igniter , a small cobweb can screw things up. Have someone switch it on while you stand at furnace and do a visual can you smell propane/ Is the igniter sparking. Oh and welcome to the forum, You will get more knowledgable people as soon as they wake up :)

Jim Spence

2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB

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I agree with Pat & Pete. If there is something that needs tape on the circuit board then there is a problem.

That could even be a crack in the ignitor. When I was doing service work there was a brand new furnace in a greenhouse and when it cooled off at night the furnace would run, but at 2AM (or somewhere close) the low temp alarm would go off. I finally found the ignitor had a crack in it. Once it was replaced it ran great.

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Could there be a low voltage issue resulting in the fan not getting enough speed to close the sail switch?  After it had ran the fan for a few minutes and you recycled the unit the motor may have warmed enough to run a little faster????  Just a thought.

Lenp

USN Retired
2002 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom

2012 F150 4x4

2018 Lincoln MKX

2019 HD Ultra Limited

 

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 Every time there is an ignition problem on a Suburban furnace.

 

 You must pull the furnace out and remove all the screws that hold the igniter and the diffuser to the furnace heat exchanger. Then sand all surfaces that mate together and then make sure all screws are tight when you put it back together.

 

 Following this procedure will help with making a Suburban furnace operate positively.

 

then you can test all other components.

 

 Just my experience,.  Vern

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You are aware that when it is cold out, the fan will come on and blow cold air for a minute or two before the burner lights and starts heating the air.  At least that's what our Atwood furnace does.  Are you waiting long enough for the burner to light?

Pat DeJong

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Welcome to the forum. What are you calling a spark unit?

Bill

2008 Newmar Mountain Aire model 4521
450 hp Cummins ISM
Allison 4000MH tran.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a blue Ox tow bar

Home base Fort Worth Texas

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.

-Mark Twain-

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38 minutes ago, nightwolf20013 said:

I just bought this RV and it looks like someone put a new converter in one of the basement units hooked to two batteries, I have two furnaces on my RV could it be too small of a converter.

You are doing great. The furnaces are 12 V so I doubt the converter is a problem.

Bill

2008 Newmar Mountain Aire model 4521
450 hp Cummins ISM
Allison 4000MH tran.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a blue Ox tow bar

Home base Fort Worth Texas

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.

-Mark Twain-

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9 hours ago, nightwolf20013 said:

I have two furnaces on my RV could it be too small of a converter.

That is highly unlikely but I'm wondering if you really have two 120v/12v converters? Are you sure that one of them is not an inverter or 12V to  120V? Your furnaces operate on 12V-dc power which can come from either the converter or the battery. It is pretty easy to measure the voltage and a furnace should work reliably on voltages as low as 11V, possibly 10.5v but not much lower. Usually what happens if the voltage falls too low is that the blower will slow down and not provide enough air movement to close the sail switch and so the gas and igniter never turn on. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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Why at night only is really an interesting question. Do you have wide temp swings between day and night. Anything else you do differently at night. Do you run propane appliances at night, or shut them off, which may account for the difference? Do you close a vent in another part of the trailer that may account for the difference? Have you tried the gas stove at night when the furnace doesn't want to start?     I have a gremlin in my furnace also but it strikes very infrequently. I think my gas valve sticks closed sometimes.  Anyway, I like the idea of checking all connections and make a close up and personal inspection.

Dave and Lana Hasper

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22 hours ago, LFDR3116 said:

You are aware that when it is cold out, the fan will come on and blow cold air for a minute or two before the burner lights and starts heating the air.  At least that's what our Atwood furnace does.  Are you waiting long enough for the burner to light?

This is the first thing that stuck out at me.  Often the air will be really cold coming through to the bedrooms at night when it starts up and you need to WAIT for everything to start working.  

Barb & Dave O'Keeffe
2002 Alpine 36 MDDS (Figment II), 2018 Ford C-Max HYBRID
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11 hours ago, nightwolf20013 said:

the temp in the house will be in the 50s

Are you then saying that the furnace is already blowing cold air and continues to do so with the inside temperature well below the setting of the thermostat? That does sound as though your furnace failed to light. It would be very interesting to have an accurate reading on your battery voltage when you get up as well since low voltage to the furnace will cause the blower to run but at a lower speed and then the sail switch does not close so there is no lighting of the propane or opening of the valve. Even if the voltage is not falling, that still doesn't mean that the sail switch isn't causing the problem, but does lower that probability. If this only happens at night, we need to figure out what is different at night as that could be the key to determining what the cause is. The way your furnace is wired, the power to the circuit board must pass through the high temp. cut-off, and the sail switch before it reaches the circuit board. Your thermostat sends power through a time delay relay that causes the blower to run for about 30 seconds to purge any combustion gases before the gas valve opens and spark is supplied. The furnace has only 1 motor and it has a blower for combustion air on one end and the blower to distribute warm air on the other so that blower will run as soon as the thermostat calls for heat. If the sail switch is not closed by the blowing air through the heat exchanger, the power will never reach the control circuit board and the furnace just stays in that condition with the blower running and no fire. In later models of Suburban furnace, there is a timer that will shut off the furnace when it fails to start heating but your model does not have that. 

I suggest that you visit the website of Bryant RV and download a copy of the service manual for your furnace as that may help you to figure out what is happening. 

 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Years ago before I was equipped with enough battery energy storage capacity and was parked overnight dry camping in cooler weather, I would go to bed with the furnace working fine, but wake up to it blowing COLDDDDDDDDDDDDD air brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. The problem was my battery voltage dropped too low for the furnace to ignite even though when the T stat called for heat the blower still began to run as it should to purge the combustion chamber and then ifffffffffffffff ? there was sufficient fan speed and air flow the sail switch closed, the gas valve opened, and the boards HV coil/transformer produced High Voltage which was transmitted to the ignitor tip to initiate combustion  BUT THERE WAS INSUFFICIENT BATTERY DC VOLTAGE, the fan still ran but the furnace failed to ignite.

Id be checking the battery voltage (12.6 for full charged lead acid) ..............The voltage at the circuit boards input (perhaps at the flat ribbon cable connection)......................When the T stat calls for heat see if the gas valve is opening and if the boards HV coil/transformer is functioning.............. but that doesn't happen unless the sail switch closes upon sufficient fan RPM and air flow PROVIDED THERES ENOUGH BATTERY VOLTAGE?????? 

On my OLDER units the fan continued to run even if it failed to light but on my later model furnaces if it doesn't light the fan eventually times out and stops.

 

 John T

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39 minutes ago, nightwolf20013 said:

I took everything apart cleaned every connector, the connection on the thermal exchanger was pretty bad

CONGRATULATIONS I cant say from here what fixed it or not or if its a permanent fix (only time will tell), but loose corroded or otherwise resistive connections can cause a voltage drop and low voltage (be it connections or the battery source voltage) can indeed prevent it from working. By connection on thermal exchanger you mean the ignitor tip ??? Often an ignitor tip problem can prevent ignition.

John T  Headed to Marshall TX today then SKP in Livingston Texas. 

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