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My rig is showing its age!


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Hot water heater is failing. Does anyone have any experience with on demand electric and propane water heater. Will a unit for 2 or 3 hundred work for two of us? Has anyone installed this on there own?

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homelesshartshorns | Trying to spend the last Dollar on the Last Day! (wordpress.com)

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1 hour ago, hemsteadc said:

Be nice, but I doubt 2 or 3 hundred will do it if you want sufficient water flow.  Youtube should have a bunch on this.

My hope was to find someone that might give me an idea of what I would need and where I can find it?

Example!

Excel RV Tankless Water Heater - Gas - Electric Ignition - Vent Free - 38,000 Btu Excel RV Water Heaters EX93FR (etrailer.com)

Edited by homelesshartshorns
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Still seeing Places we have never seen before and others that we thought we would never see again!

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homelesshartshorns | Trying to spend the last Dollar on the Last Day! (wordpress.com)

George Hartshorn | Facebook

 

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Look like a regular water heater would be cheaper than a tankless plus you can use it on electric when hooked up.

Denny

Denny & Jami SKP#90175
Most Timing with Mac our Scottie, RIP Jasper our Westie
2013 F350 SC DRW 6.2 V8 4.30 Gears
2003 HH Premier 35FKTG Home Base Nebraska

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IMO the most important feature of a tankless heater is temperature-rise. For instance, if the incoming water is 45°F, and the tankless heater only has a 40° temperature-rise, the maximum hot water temperature will be 85°, at the tankless exit, not at shower head.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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My water heater in my 2018 Forest River died a couple months ago, started leaking from the weld on the tank itself.  I attribute it to poor maintenance from the previous owners, as I found the anode rod eaten away when I went to inspect it after purchase.  Anyways, I looked at tankless, but 1) my input water is very cold in the winter (Tahoe), and 2) I have electric included in my site so I prefer to use electric to power as much as possible.  Unfortunately, 120v household plug is just not enough to run tankless.  Since I am stationary, and I couldnt find a replacement RV water heater, I ended up buying a small 120v powered 20gallon water heater from Home Depot, placed it under my skirt, and plumbed it to the RV along with an expansion tank.  It works wonderfully, and I get way more water and adjustable temperature out of the household heater.  I now use my bypass valve as a mixing valve, which gives me even more hot water, by turning up the temperature on the water heater to max but using the mixing valve to cool it with cold water before reaching the faucets.

I am interested in following this though, as I have thoughts of making a portable hot tub with propane heating, and have been thinking of doing this with a transfer pump and a propane tankless water heater.

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I would avoid any gas appliance that is vent free in the restricted air space of an RV. This is something that going cheap regardless of the reason is not usually wise. If you have to ask if it can be installed DYII would say no. However if you are experienced with making gas, 120v Romex electric, and plumbing connections, and adjusting slight variances in size with a newer unit even of the same model number, then DYI is doable. If money is a show stopper you might consider a good mobile repair service because unless the tank has a hole in it, the initiator, thermostat, electric element, etc can usually be repaired easily. That could set you back less than any heater and result in hot water for a few more years.

Safe water heating!

RV/Derek
http://www.rvroadie.com Email on the bottom of my website page.
Retired AF 1971-1998


When you see a worthy man, endeavor to emulate him. When you see an unworthy man, look inside yourself. - Confucius

 

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Biggest problems with tank free water heaters is if you install it where the old heater was, you have a time lag between the time water starts flowing and when the burner ignites and starts heating the water in the heat exchange coil, giving you a blast of cold water as it flows through the plumbing to the showerhead.  Makes it close to useless for navy showers while boondocking where you're constantly turning the water on and off.

The other disadvantage of the original mounting location is the heat transfer coils are exposed to the outside air, and with their small water volume they can freeze just like any other exposed plumbing.  I lost a tankless Atwood heater when the temperature unexpectedly dipped to 30 degrees overnight while the rig was unpowered in storage and the heating coil ruptured.

This means you have to locate the tankless water heater next to the point of use, inside the RV.  But then you have the problem of venting the propane exhaust outdoors.

38,000 BTUs means the flame is twice is large as a regular RV water heater, so it consumes twice as much propane and produces twice as much exhaust for every minute the flame is on.

Edited by Lou Schneider
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