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Picking Up New Volvo and Need Suggestions


Overthinker

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Our new Volvo has finally arrived after a year of waiting.  I've seen older posts on brake controllers but I wanted to see if there was something new or better available.  Jackalope has been sitting in the garage waiting for quite sometime and I'll take any tips you have on that too.  I'm very pleased with how the truck turned out looks wise and I appreciate all the advice I received on here although its been about a year ago.  I've stayed away because I didn't want to be jealous of everyone.

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I had a Maxbrake (no longer available) and just switched to Tuson.  Only one pull so far but pleased with it.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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I've had this newer revision of the Hayse Air controlled brake controller for 2 yrs now. The older model with a rheostat instead of a solid state module, failed. The updated version seems to be working as advertised. Available cheaper through resalers:

https://www.hayesbc.com/product/air-actuated-controller/

The systems that plug into the port under the dash are easier to install, and smarter. This one requires a  bit of under dash and feeding an airline through the firewall. Not all that hard. Took about an hour.

 

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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13 minutes ago, trimster said:

I've had this newer revision of the Hayse Air controlled brake controller for 2 yrs now. The older model with a rheostat instead of a solid state module, failed. The updated version seems to be working as advertised. Available cheaper through resalers:

https://www.hayesbc.com/product/air-actuated-controller/

The systems that plug into the port under the dash are easier to install, and smarter. This one requires a  bit of under dash and feeding an airline through the firewall. Not all that hard. Took about an hour.

 

Does the Hayes play well with the Jackalope?  I see the other suggestion is designed to work with it but you have to purchase another part.

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3 hours ago, Overthinker said:

Does the Hayes play well with the Jackalope?  I see the other suggestion is designed to work with it but you have to purchase another part.

The Jackalope is nothing more than a box with relays and terminal strips for wires in and out. It will "play" with anything you connect to it, as far as brake controllers go.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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Volvo 16 pins OBDII connector wiring pins to go to a J1939 connector if that helps. I have the Directlink on a 2020 Volvo VNR 640 and the heavy duty kits makes it plug an play, the wire from & to Jacklope I used a 12awg 4 condutors SOOW cable and it has been flawless for @ 3 years now.

Pin Number     Signal
3     J1939+
5     GND
6     ISO15765+
11     J1939-
12     J1708+
13     J1708-
14     ISO15765-
16     BATTERY

Wiring Connections for the adapter:
Volvo     Signal         J1939
5     Ground         A
16     Battery     B
3     J1939-H     C
11     J1939-L     D
12     J1708+         F
13     J1708-         G

Ken....

Edited by hatrack

IMG_856.png.ae22d1dc2b12f9fb806b4e17121ee0b0.png

2017 DRV Fullhouse JX450

2020 Volvo VNR 42-640, D13, 455hp, Ishift, 189"wb, factory single, ET Junior Hitch @ 195", Jacklopee, Directlink

2016 GMC 3500 Denali DRW, CC, LB, Curt 25k, Sold

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33 minutes ago, hatrack said:

 

Volvo 16 pins OBDII connector wiring pins to go to a J1939 connector if that helps. I have the Directlink on a 2020 Volvo VNR 640 and the heavy duty kits makes it plug an play, the wire from & to Jacklope I used a 12awg 4 condutors SOOW cable and it has been flawless for @ 3 years now.

Pin Number     Signal
3     J1939+
5     GND
6     ISO15765+
11     J1939-
12     J1708+
13     J1708-
14     ISO15765-
16     BATTERY

Wiring Connections for the adapter:
Volvo     Signal         J1939
5     Ground         A
16     Battery     B
3     J1939-H     C
11     J1939-L     D
12     J1708+         F
13     J1708-         G

Ken....

Thanks for being so thorough.  Maybe it will make sense when I get the parts here.  I have the Jacklopee and ordered the Direclink this evening.  According to your post I need to order the 16 pin HDT module kit and it should be plug and play other than one wire running to the Jackalopee.  I'm a little nervous about wiring the Jackalopee up on a new truck and installing the ET hitch but I'm sure I'll figure it out.  I have about 2 weeks to get everything done before our vacation.

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On 6/12/2022 at 7:29 AM, Overthinker said:

Does the Hayes play well with the Jackalope?  I see the other suggestion is designed to work with it but you have to purchase another part.

No issues.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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On 6/12/2022 at 9:14 AM, trimster said:

I've had this newer revision of the Hayse Air controlled brake controller for 2 yrs now. The older model with a rheostat instead of a solid state module, failed. The updated version seems to be working as advertised. Available cheaper through resalers:

https://www.hayesbc.com/product/air-actuated-controller/

The systems that plug into the port under the dash are easier to install, and smarter. This one requires a  bit of under dash and feeding an airline through the firewall. Not all that hard. Took about an hour.

 

Question about this unit? I've installed in the past couple of the "original" Hayes models, which essentially moved the wiper on the rheostat to increase the current to brakes with the varying control air pressure. It was a beautiful bit of electro-mechanical simplicity, proportional to braking air pressure and worked like a charm once set up. Does the new unit still use rheostat, or did they switch to pressure transducer? Also looking at their picture I only see three wire coming off the unit, what's missing (ground)? Or, are there actually four wires?

Edited by phoenix2013
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/14/2022 at 8:29 AM, phoenix2013 said:

Question about this unit? I've installed in the past couple of the "original" Hayes models, which essentially moved the wiper on the rheostat to increase the current to brakes with the varying control air pressure. It was a beautiful bit of electro-mechanical simplicity, proportional to braking air pressure and worked like a charm once set up. Does the new unit still use rheostat, or did they switch to pressure transducer? Also looking at their picture I only see three wire coming off the unit, what's missing (ground)? Or, are there actually four wires?

4 wires.

Not sure what they are using inside but tech support at the factory said that the rheostat was "old stuff". Mine works flawlessly now.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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38 minutes ago, trimster said:

4 wires.

Not sure what they are using inside but tech support at the factory said that the rheostat was "old stuff". Mine works flawlessly now.

Thanks Robert, I get calls all the time about, "what you recommend for a brake controller"? The pendulum based units don't perform well in semis because the the weight ratios between the truck vs. trailer are running 1 : 1.5 and on lighter trailer even closer to 1 : 1. So the pendulums don't displace at the same rate as on pickup pullers where those ratios can be 1 : 3 or even higher. I always had appreciation for Hayes approach because it responded to the actual output of the truck air braking system in a proportional manner. Although I had some questions about the longevity of the rheostat slider used in that repeated manner. I'm guessing that the "old stuff" was replaced with a pressure transducer which as an input sensor should as good if not superior. Although the old simplicity had to give way to more complex electronics.

I always give more credence to statements from an actual user that it "works flawlessly" vs. the assertions from product's marketing departments.

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