trimster Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 Went out tonight to lock up the truck, opened the door and no interior lights. Worked yesterday. No power to the cigarette lighter plugs, to the sleeper lights. Turn on the key and the dash lights up. Goes thru pre-start. Where do I start looking? Where are the fuses for this? Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 I would look for a switch you may have bumped. There's one by the light at the bottom of the door that's three position, and another in the cargo box behind driver's door, and I believe one on the dash....... Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 I am thinking to look in the fuse panel under the center dash area on top of the dash. There may be a common fuse, or reset breaker. It could also be worthwhile to look up the the wiring schematics in the resource guide. That may point out what all is connected. But what caused the problem to be. Some searching and testing is needed I do believe. Just my 1/2 cents worth, Vern in a T-shirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimster Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 The last thing I did with the cab interior lights was to turn on the red door panel lights so they come on when the door opens. Doubtful that's the cause because I opened and closed both doors testing them...all was good. The last major wiring work was a bit over a week ago by the dlr looking for and fixing the DEF derate. All lighting was fine after that service. This is a head scratcher as to how it can just sit there and knock all cab interior lights and power sockets, out. Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydrvr Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) I've had wiring harness connections fail due to corrosion. In one case, I had to run a new power line to bypass the harness, since I couldn't reach it without major disassembly. In your case, I would suspect a fuse or circuit breaker issue, at least that's where I'd start. Jay P.S. Maybe the problems aren't connected. There's a switch at the lower right corner of the driver's side door frame that turns on the light when you open the door. Those are known to fail. You might check that. Edited July 3, 2021 by Jaydrvr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 No power to various places. I doubt it is a fuse problem. If you understand "open circuit voltage" then you can test for a bad connection on the hot side or ground side on a place you can isolate the load from the circuit. You can't use lighting circuits as it is difficult to know you have all the bulbs removed. However, there are a couple of places that have no loads unless you plug something into them. The cigarette lighter and the CB radio connections are a good place. Read the voltage at either of those two places. If there is battery voltage on them but they will not run an electrical load then there is a high resistance between the battery and either the hot or ground. I am thinking a ground problem. Connect a ground wire to the battery ground and connect the other end to the CB dashboard connector and see if that fixes things. Good luck, Chet Quote Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 Isn't there an automatic disconnect to house loads, so drivers can't kill the batteries running things in the sleeper? Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimster Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) So, there's a low voltage indicator light on the sleeper control panel that's blinking. And here's a bit of weirdness....the sleeper fan switch was blinking. Once I turned off the switch (engine & key are off) all power came back. I can't find anything in the manuals about that. And the truck fired right up. So maybe not low batteries? I did have it on 4 amp trickle charge all night. But only found the blinking lights this morning. Edited July 3, 2021 by trimster Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimster Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 My daughter found this.... https://www.thetruckersreport.com/truckingindustryforum/threads/sleeper-fan-switch-flashing.191287/ Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 You could call Volvo. There should be a phone number in your manuals. Or it may be in the resource guide. The low voltage cutoff sounds likely to be of interest in this case. Or what controls it. Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollinbrian Posted July 4, 2021 Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 This happened to us last winter as we were driving up over Snoqualmie Pass. Same symptoms. Cause was the ground lug had fatigued and broke off the alternator. Field repair got us rolling but it pretty much killed the already old batteries. Quote 2017 Jayco Designer 37rs "Fiona" 2007 Volvo 670 "Henry" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimster Posted July 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 Thanks all for the input. When someone asks 'what else can go wrong'...with this trip. Ya, that. Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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