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Copper tube repair GIRARD RV TANKLESS WATER HEATER GSWH-2


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I have a GIRARD RV TANKLESS WATER HEATER GSWH-2 with a burst copper line from ice. Looking for ideas on how to repair.   HVAC and copper plumbing guys know how.  Anyone have ideas or comments?  3/8 od 180 degree turn with break near center.  Love to post a picture but cant compress file size below to max allowable.

 

 

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Not a plumber but the remedy would be to braze solder in an elbow. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Fittings-130000?gclid=CjwKCAjwjbCDBhAwEiwAiudBy3LX-cRC9Uw4uayeygyEsyBhx3NogwQOXB6083rnRu-XogIyzP8roRoCATcQAvD_BwE     They now have quick connects for copper lines but these are being sold for HVAC.  https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rectorseal-87025-3-8-PRO-Fit-Quick-Connect-90-Degree-Elbow

Dave and Lana Hasper

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A lot depends on what tools you have to work with. Cut tube replace with same copper swedge to spread to fit over the copper if small diameter. Larger maybe above, 3/8 get Couplings and for copper to copper silfoss is great. dissimillliar metals silver solder is best. 

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Simply soldering the split closed does not account for how much/thin the copper was stretched where it did not burst.

 

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 How about sanding the area that will be soldered. Close gap as much as possible. Apply flux then tin with low temperature silver solder. Then form a patch of copper tubing that will cover the split and maybe3/16” more. Make it so it fits over the area freely. Then sand, flux and tin the repair piece. Install over split tubing and solder in place. Control the heat and it should work fine.

 

image.jpeg.f013f4a57e88ba8c2696abfe50867ac9.jpeg

  This style solder gun should give you good heat that an be controlled correctly to do that job. I have used similar gun to even weld black water tanks. I have soldered odd high volume heat, short time, controlled solder projects with this style gun.gun.

 

 

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Edited by Wrknrvr
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It is hard to say without seeing it but at least twice I have fixed a leak with an approriate size hose clamp with rubber? gasket under the clamp.  It was so easy I never went back and did a "permanent repair. One was on the hot water discharge line of a large water heater. So what if it only lasted about 5 years.  I am sure on yours it will depend on where it is located and may not work at all but if it doesn't you sure haven't lost a lot of time and money.

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I have done that clamp rubber on my maintenance jobs back in NC. Plant in service and not wanting to shut down system for a water leak. Just cut rubber to fit and a clamp or two on it. Never seen it fail. We did replace during shutdown.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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18 hours ago, timotb said:

Lots of good ideas.  Hope I can apply good technique.  Thanks for all the good ideas

They do make U bends in different sizes .

U-Shaped-Copper-Fitting-Pipe.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=copper+tube+u+bend&source=lmns&bih=622&biw=1355&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjev9e3i_nvAhUVyKwKHaieBccQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA

Edited by Pat & Pete

Goes around , comes around .

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
On 4/6/2021 at 8:10 PM, timotb said:

Mine has done the same thing, split right in the bend and pin hole size leaks on opposite bend.  I contacted the company because it has the Freeze Proof system and had no bulging like other burst copper lines which I found researching on Google.  I mentioned the flow trouble then high pressure leaks and possible inferior copper with the splits and pins holes right at the bends.  I asked if others had the same trouble, was there a recall on the lines and what is the repair solution.  I did not mention replacement or warranty just like most of us troubleshooting so it does not happen again.  Now I’m searching on how to repair I find many people do have the same problem.  So…. 
 

Besides I had it hooked up to Power and Gas like the manual says so I needn’t worry about freezing.  Well of course their short response was “it froze you have to buy a replacement”   I responded with just what I said above, since others had problems with flow I figured flow issues were the start and inferior copper split followed.   So now I’m trying to figure out what really went wrong and how to repair the copper bend and make sure this does NOT happen again   Okay I could buy another named brand and/or this $600+ system with unfriendly customer service reps or we can find out how to fix small uncommon sized copper splits right at the bends without cutting the system up   
 

help!  Please share what has worked for everyone.  
Thanks

M

 

I have a GIRARD RV TANKLESS WATER HEATER GSWH-2 with a burst copper line from ice. Looking for ideas on how to repair.   HVAC and copper plumbing guys know how.  Anyone have ideas or comments?  3/8 od 180 degree turn with break near center.  Love to post a picture but cant compress file size below to max allowable.

 

 

 

image0.jpeg

image0.jpeg

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On 4/11/2021 at 6:04 PM, timotb said:

 

Doesn’t look like freezing copper looks like a burst.  Compare yours to Google pictures of frozen pipes they swell up, bulge then split.  I maybe be seeing something different than everyone else.  I’ve sweated many a copper pipes, laid…cough cough ran miles of pex but who knows…

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On 4/12/2021 at 12:11 PM, Pat & Pete said:

Thank you so much for this link.   Has anyone found what size the system is using so we order the right size?  
 

ty

M

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   I am thinking if you were to cut a patch out of a properly shaped piece of copper.   Like the picture above. One of those 

   Make it fit fairly good over the problem area. Then as Glenn said, silver solder it in place.

 

    It might be wise to try a practice piece first. So you can learn from that. Silver soldering is a little different than regular soldering.   

 

 

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Clean it good, shiny, paste and silver melts at higher temp than regular solder. I always use a brazing tip. Brazing tip allows concentrated heat so you don't burn up the copper. I have bridged 1/4" gap with silver. Great product. Very strong. Even made jewelry with it but i weld for a living also.  

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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  • 11 months later...

This is the 2nd time I had my Girard RV tankless water heater blow out a hole in the copper elbow area. I contacted Girard to get the replacement the first time it happened but this time I’m thinking about repairing it instead of paying $700 to replace it. What do any of you fellow RVer’s recommend for fixing it? Copper elbow or some kind of patch? And do you think JB WELD could possibly work over a patch? Any idea’s would be greatly appreciated!! 
thanks, Mary S

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2 hours ago, Momchu said:

This is the 2nd time I had my Girard RV tankless water heater blow out a hole in the copper elbow area. I contacted Girard to get the replacement the first time it happened but this time I’m thinking about repairing it instead of paying $700 to replace it. What do any of you fellow RVer’s recommend for fixing it? Copper elbow or some kind of patch? And do you think JB WELD could possibly work over a patch? Any idea’s would be greatly appreciated!! 
thanks, Mary S

My Uncle many many years ago said he had aggressive water that attacked his copper piping after he replumb a house I grew up in. Had to go to some sort of plastic for it to last. Have no idea what it was when I lived there till I was maybe 10. 

I'd not use JB Weld or a patch. If you can "un-sweat" the solder joint and then put another elbow in it's place, that would be the best, but first find out what's causing the Blowout. Is something rubbing on the outside to cause a weak spot? Photos may help the more handy members of this forum. 

 

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Either have some one braze it or silver solder it together with an oxy/acetylene torch. God, I just agreed with Glenn....

I need to mash my hand in a door to get rid of the pain...

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