new rv tying into house

[bridge]

My idea is to get either a 5th wheel or travel camper while my existing house gets an overhaul.  How close should the rv be to the house?  I'm not sure if I'll need to tie into the septic or not how much would that cost?  I may still be able to use the bathrooms.  Definitely would want water and electric hooked up with AC so I've seen a 50 amp hookup would be needed.  I'm hoping to be out of it by winter but still thinking of getting a winter package setup in case.  Something in the 30k-45k range.  I've only been to one dealer so far they had Grand Design, anyone have any thoughts on them?  I'm not sure how long I'd end up keeping it may want a class C eventually.  What kind of depreciation after a year or 2 after buying new? What holds there value more 5th wheel or travel trailer? I didn't talk any numbers yet but after looking at rvdirect that should at least give me some idea on where I should be.  Thanks for any advice.

[Barbaraok]

Just what are you planning on doing to your house that would require you to live elsewhere?   Are you completely gutting it?  You'd be amazed at what you can put up with in terms of remodeling and continuing to live in the house.  Heavens, even renting an apartment for a year would be cheaper than buying an RV unless you really are into RVing.     

That said, do you have sewer or septic?  Where's the outside cleanout located and how far away from that would you need to be.   Same for outside water outlet and outside electrical outlet.  How far away has your contractor said you need to be and why?  

Edited May 25, 2019 by Barbaraok

[rynosback]

I agree. No need to by a new one only to live in for a short period of time. After buying a new rig, two years later you will take a HUGE hit.  You stated you want to buy a class C down the road to travel in.  You could consider buying one and keeping it.  If you are set on this idea.  I would buy a used class C. As after living in it, you may realize that you need a larger or smaller rig.  And if does not work out you could sell it. And if you bought it at a good price, you could just sell it hopefully what you bought it for. Plus you would not need to buy a truck to pull it/move it. Also not sure what experience you have with campers.  Electric you would have to create your service.  As long as you have an outside water spigot you have water. If it is further away where you want to park the rig, just get a long enough hose. With septic or county sewer, you should have a clean out.  You can use waste portable water tanks to empty or just set up temporary drainage system.  This have many factors that need to be looked at before the best decision/solution can be made.

We have lived through major house work many times. It was only temporary so we just made due with it.

it is a personal decision on how you want to address it.

i hope your remodeling goes well, time frame, budget and the quality of workmanship.

Edited May 25, 2019 by rynosback

[Kirk W]

First of all, welcome to the Escapee forums! We will do all that we are able to assist you. 

I'll try to respond to your questions in the order asked. The distance from the house that you place it will depend on many things. Most RVs have a power cord that is 25' or so in length. Some have a power cord that is rated for 30A and single phase (3 pins) while others are 50A and two phases (4 pins). There are extension cords to match either of these and you can safely use one 25' extension cord if the power supply is good. You need to know that very few homes have the proper outlet for either of these plugs so you would probably need to have one installed and that won't be cheap. Water hoses can be connected together without a serious problem so that doesn't affect the distance of placement. Sewer is another issue completely. To connect to it you need to have a plumbing opening and the most common one is the cleanout access that is usually installed somewhere in the outlet line.

You will need to park where that can be reached with 20' or 30' of sewer hose or spend the money to have a connection put in near where you will park and that would be quite expensive. An RV has wastewater tanks that store the used water and even if you do not use to toilet the water from washing dishes and such must be emptied when full and unless you are on a rural acreage you won't be able to dump it on the ground. 

Grand Design is a company that has only existed for 5 years and so has a pretty short history but so far the reputation is pretty good. It is difficult for us to tell you how much depreciation you could expect in the first year because the purchase price is very negotiable, much like cars. In looking at the NADA ratings, a travel trailer that had a new MSRP of $35,000 will probably sell for around $20,000 when 1 year old. The catch is that you can probably buy that trailer for $25k to $28k depending on your negeotiating skills and the dealership you buy from. If you choose to do this, I strongly recommend that you buy something used, at least 5 years old. 

Depreciation for travel trailers and fifth wheel trailers is pretty similar.

[bridge]

NO experience with campers. I don't see a clean out so I'd would need a plumber to tie in the septic tank.  My lot is slightly sloped so I would also need to level out a parking spot I'd assume gravel would be fine?  That would put me about 30ft from the house with the water spigot and 80ft from the setpic tank.  I suppose I could get closer but then I'll need to tear up the yard and level that out. The town has no zoning so I don't think there is any issue with setting something like this up.  We recently found out we have a mold issue and it's making me sick.  So I want to get out asap and get it ripped out cleaned up and rebuilt.  Probably a new roof, 2 new bathrooms and a few interior walls/ceilings.

I have looked at just buying another place but nothing new is out there.  We want to stay in the small town for the school that we are in now.  We may also build a new house while staying in the rv.  Either on the same property or another lot.  

We have 2 young kids 1 and 4 thats why I assume they would eventually like a class C instead.  Assuming the wife would too if we start vacationing with it.  I'm just not sure if it would be big enough for a long stay.  The apartment may work or renting a house but there just isn't much around.  And with my luck lately I would just be going into similar issues.  

[NDBirdman]

Check with a septic tank manufacturer.  If they don't make them, maybe the would make you a septic tank lid with an RV hose inlet like the campgrounds use to replace the round concrete (Plug) that goes over the tank.  I'm thinking of checking on that myself for my set-up.  Electrician can install the power outlet to match the campers requirements once you get your camper (30 or 50 amp).  Water, just a good potable water hose.

Camper, if not motor-home, what do you have you can move/haul it with?  IMHO, if I were going to live in it stationary like you mention for a year or so, I'd look towards a travel trailer.  There are some nice ones out there and they have the best interior room, IMHO.  I'd definitely look for a good used one, ie not new prices.  If you've never camped as you said, you may grow to love it, or hate it.  You would have a rough time selling a newer one for much without taking a huge hit.

You did not mention where you live.  While most states are doable with winter camping, some are not.  Take where I am, no way in heck would I attempt it, I live in ND.  Winterizing should be done carefully/fully regardless of what the RV is built for, sewer/water lines are still on the outside in the elements.

Good luck!

[Lou Schneider]

For any given price, you'll get a lot more living space in a trailer than you would in a Class C.  If you get a trailer you won't need a truck while it's sitting at your house, just hire someone to deliver it or make delivery part of the sales contract.  All of the trailers on the dealer's lot were delivered individually, so the dealer has plenty of contacts.

At the end of the remodel, you'll have the choice of getting a truck to tow it, or trading in the trailer for a traveling RV.  If you buy a used trailer a couple of years old there should be minimal depreciation if you decide to sell or trade it.

Another point is vehicles with engines don't like to sit for long periods of time, especially in humid environments.  Rubber parts like tires, belts and hoses become stiff and brittle if they sit in one place and don't flex.  Condensation can rust gears and bearings.  Brake rotors rust, etc.  All of these can cause problems and added expense when it's time to put a motorhome back on ths road.

Edited May 25, 2019 by Lou Schneider

[NDBirdman]

30 minutes ago, bridge said:

 My lot is slightly sloped so I would also need to level out a parking spot I'd assume gravel would be fine?

 

Some campers have hyd leveling, some manual.  For manual, u can use blocks of wood under the wheels, hyd I would still put wood blocks under them so they don't sink in the ground over a long period.  Leveling them out is fairly easy as long as the slope is not crazy.

Gravel also would work, just level the pad well.  Question is, do you want the gravel to stay in place after you move the camper?  Your call, could be a place to park yearly when your not using it to live in.  Again, your call but yes, would work.

[Lou Schneider]

10 minutes ago, NDBirdman said:

Check with a septic tank manufacturer.  If they don't make them, maybe the would make you a septic tank lid with an RV hose inlet like the campgrounds use to replace the round concrete (Plug) that goes over the tank.  I'm thinking of checking on that myself for my set-up.

If you go that route, make sure the replacement lid has the same baffling as the tank inlet.  If you just splash liquid into the tank you'll upset the layering that's essential for breaking down the waste and letting only clear water out of the tank.

Even so, you'll be introducing waste into the center of the tank, making the introduction point closer to the outlet than waste coming in the normal way through the inlet at the opposite end of the tank..

Seems to me it would be just as easy to dig up the inlet and insert a simple cleanout so the trailer waste can enter the tank normally.

Edited May 25, 2019 by Lou Schneider

[NDBirdman]

36 minutes ago, bridge said:

 put me about 30ft from the house with the water spigot and 80ft from the setpic tank.

That's kinda far from the septic dump if your trying to use the stinky slinky that far.  IMHO, I would not want to go more than 20ft with one.

[NDBirdman]

2 minutes ago, Lou Schneider said:

If you go that route, make sure the replacement lid has the same baffling as the tank inlet.  If you just splash liquid into the tank you'll upset the layering that's essential for breaking down the waste and letting only clear water out of the tank.

Even so, you'll be introducing waste into the center of the tank, making the introduction point closer to the outlet than waste coming in the normal inlet at the opposite end from the outlet.

Seems to me it would be just as easy to dig up the inlet and insert a simple cleanout so the trailer waste can enter the tank normally.

Darn good point!

[Carlos]

Sewer dumping is easy as long as your clean-out fittings are downhill from where you will park.  I dump at home since I park in the driveway.  But the street is at a lower elevation so I couldn't park there and dump.

Edited May 25, 2019 by Carlos

[sandsys]

2 hours ago, bridge said:

We have 2 young kids 1 and 4 thats why I assume they would eventually like a class C instead.  

I have looked at lots of RVs over the last 11 years and I'm not aware of a single Class C in which you can anchor two child seats. It's also rare to have that many beds which don't have to be converted every day/night. You might be better off getting a travel trailer now and keeping it since your tow vehicle can carry your children safely.

Linda Sand

[Lance A Lott]

You would have better luck with a mascurater pump and hose for that kind of septic distance. As for electric you might want to put in a post near your parking spot. 

[MidMOTraveler]

Before you get too deep in the planning I might suggest you check with your municipality. There are lots of places where just parking a camper can be an issue, much less dealing with utilities and sewer issues. 

[Carlos]

That's good advice, and also keep in mind that you can often get permission.  We have a neighbor living in his RV in front of the house right now, because there was a water leak and mold.  It's both illegal and against HOA rules, but both the HOA and city gave him permission.

 

[rynosback]

On 5/25/2019 at 10:01 AM, NDBirdman said:

That's kinda far from the septic dump if your trying to use the stinky slinky that far.  IMHO, I would not want to go more than 20ft with one.

You should be able to go that far as long as the slope/grade is good.  Meaning that the camper is higher in elevation then the clean out.  Plus they could just buy 3” pipe with rubber clamped connectors. This way there would be no ridges.

if they have a 240 volt drier, they should be able to use that also.

there are just so many options depending on a lot of variables. 

 

Edited May 27, 2019 by rynosback

[rynosback]

On 5/25/2019 at 9:23 AM, bridge said:

NO experience with campers. I don't see a clean out so I'd would need a plumber to tie in the septic tank.  My lot is slightly sloped so I would also need to level out a parking spot I'd assume gravel would be fine?  That would put me about 30ft from the house with the water spigot and 80ft from the setpic tank.  I suppose I could get closer but then I'll need to tear up the yard and level that out. The town has no zoning so I don't think there is any issue with setting something like this up.  We recently found out we have a mold issue and it's making me sick.  So I want to get out asap and get it ripped out cleaned up and rebuilt.  Probably a new roof, 2 new bathrooms and a few interior walls/ceilings.

I have looked at just buying another place but nothing new is out there.  We want to stay in the small town for the school that we are in now.  We may also build a new house while staying in the rv.  Either on the same property or another lot.  

We have 2 young kids 1 and 4 thats why I assume they would eventually like a class C instead.  Assuming the wife would too if we start vacationing with it.  I'm just not sure if it would be big enough for a long stay.  The apartment may work or renting a house but there just isn't much around.  And with my luck lately I would just be going into similar issues.  

Sounds like you need to get out quickly.  For that reason I would go to a hotel or rent someplace.  There are hotels designed for extended stays as they have kitchenettes. It would be much easier then trying to buy a trailer and prep what you would need to make it work. Are they planning on having you out of your house for only a couple of months?

[FL-JOE]

On 5/25/2019 at 12:01 PM, NDBirdman said:

That's kinda far from the septic dump if your trying to use the stinky slinky that far.  IMHO, I would not want to go more than 20ft with one.

If the RV is not being moved then it would be much better to use 4" pvc and not stinky slinky for the drain.  It really wouldn't matter if you were 50 feet away.

[FL-JOE]

Is there any neighbors in you small town that have had RVs parked in their driveways.  What I am thinking is that it is hard for someone on a forum to really guide you without seeing the property and seeing what/where the utilities are.  An experienced local RVers would be able to look things over and make some pretty good suggestions maybe.

[sandsys]

11 hours ago, rynosback said:

Sounds like you need to get out quickly.  For that reason I would go to a hotel or rent someplace.  There are hotels designed for extended stays as they have kitchenettes. It would be much easier then trying to buy a trailer and prep what you would need to make it work. Are they planning on having you out of your house for only a couple of months?

We stayed for a month at an Extended Stay America when one house closed before the other was done being built and really liked it. Besides a bed, dresser, and TV we had a kitchen, a table and chairs, a desk, and a recliner. When you stay long term housekeeping cleans once a week then brings clean towels once in between cleanings. Next time I'd tell them to skip the towels so I could sleep in all but cleaning day. Our kids are coming to visit 4th of July weekend and they will stay at that same hotel for all the conveniences it offers besides just a place to sleep.

Linda