Jackalopee install

[ewacowboy]

Getting ready to install my jackalopee and looking for experiences installing it other than the jockey box.  I know the best place to install is the jockey box but I'm getting a little cramped for space with the inverter and other accessories... I'm also not a big fan of drilling holes in the cab if I don't need to.  Has anyone had any luck installing on the frame below the cab?  I was thinking of mounting it in a plastic box to help protect it from the elements.  Thoughts?  Pictures?  Experiences?

[Phil D]

Outside is fine, so long as it's protected from precipitation.  If rain can get to it, it can get in it.  The "weatherproof" feature seems to be the only thing about the Jackalopee that doesn't work as advertised.

[GlennWest]

If and when I have to work on mine, it will be relocated. Mine between rails behind axle. With bed on, pain to work with. If any possible, I would put in sleeper area

[Jack Mayer]

I would not recommend outside.  But that is just me, and I like to install stuff that will not have to be moved later.....

[rickeieio]

Phil's right.  In the early days, I thought the weather proof box was, well, weatherproof.  It ain't.  Lying on the bed, face up, will allow moisture in and ruin the circuit board.  It doesn't help matters if you leave it that way for months and forget about it.  Henry was understanding and gave me prompt service on the purchase of a new board.  Great customer support.

So, I fastened mine to the brackets holding the cab fairing on the driver's side.  Now the clear panel is vertical, which means I can see the lights inside indicating whatever function is powered.  Handy diagnostic tool, when it's where it can be observed.  Turn signal not working?  Glance at the Jackalopee and you know where to start looking.

[phoenix2013]

The box is relatively water proof, but water will get into the Jackalopee. One persistent customer finally nailed the problem. THE RV CABLE!! This cable is not molded, it's sleeved. Note that when you strip the outer jacket it just slide off with talcum and little of a paper covering. Also the wires just splay out, there are spaces between the wires.

The customer had the Jackalopee mounted low on the chassis and it kept filling with water over time. He finally used silicone around both ends in the plug and in the Jacklopee end. Also drove silicone into the casing and around and in between the wires to simulate a molded cable. Without doing all that the best "prevention is to have the cables (in and out) form an "up loop" before entering the Jackalope (the water does not flow up hill" principle). So up is better,

[rickeieio]

Yup, the cables fall away from my Jackalopee on both sides.  No more issues.

[rdickinson]

13 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Phil's right.  In the early days, I thought the weather proof box was, well, weatherproof.  It ain't.  Lying on the bed, face up, will allow moisture in and ruin the circuit board.  It doesn't help matters if you leave it that way for months and forget about it.  Henry was understanding and gave me prompt service on the purchase of a new board.  Great customer support.

So, I fastened mine to the brackets holding the cab fairing on the driver's side.  Now the clear panel is vertical, which means I can see the lights inside indicating whatever function is powered.  Handy diagnostic tool, when it's where it can be observed.  Turn signal not working?  Glance at the Jackalopee and you know where to start looking.

X2 Mine is attached to the rear of the cab.  Easy to view and service.  No issues in 5 yrs.

[Lance A Lott]

Glad I read  this post. I glued magnets on the side of mine and stuck it to the top of my def tank but I was assuming water proof meant just that. I like it where It is as I can move it out to the step and see it from the drivers seat. I will look it over and make it more waterproof.

[Shawn Patterson]

I agree that mounting in the jockey box is probably best, but I was really pressed for time when I was mounting mine, so I went this route, and since it has been working fine, there it has stayed.

I used the load-lock bracket that was already on the cab and mounted a piece of aluminum to that bracket. Then the Jackalopee was bolted to the aluminum. 

I did have some issues with water infiltration in the beginning, but some 100% silicone on the top two cable glands where the cable enters and on the threads/base of the glands themselves and the problem was solved.  I did not put any silicone on the bottom glands and this seems to have worked out fine.  I occasionally get a tiny bit of condensation inside the unit when it is cold out, but it is rare and it always dissipates once things warm up.

Additionally, I wanted to have the 12V power supplied to the unit but I didn't want to tap directly at the batteries, so since I was already running wire to the cab for the brake controller, I just used a 10/3 SOOW cord and tapped onto the battery studs that are shown in the 3rd picture. I installed a 20A fuse on the hot side right at the post for safety and ran the positive, negative and the brake controller output back to the Jackalopee. I doubt I'm getting a lot of extra amperage out of this setup, but at least it is something.

. 

[ewacowboy]

Thanks for all the info guys....I think I'm going to bite the bullet and drill holes in my box.  One question though....I'm going to wire tie the cables to the fuel mounting brackets then up to the cab.  How much does the cab move?  Should I leave a few inches of slack in the cables?

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

I allowed about 3-inches of slack, but I wired mine when the truck was aired up.  So the cab was at its ride height.

[jenandjon]

I left mine down in the frame rail laying on its side with the rest of the air lines and wires. Under the bed. The only water it will see is mist from driving through rain. I think I will get under there and silicone the ends where the wire comes in.