Totally Off Topic: Need Some Farmers Help

[adept99]

Hey Suite;

 

You don't need to drain the hydraulic system. Keep a bucket / drain pan handy 'cause it will dump a couple of pints when you first open the system and then will continue to dribble oil everywhere until you're done. Roll the bucket full back and set it on the ground before you start. Crack the hoses on the spool section and operate the lever (engine off) to make sure they don't have any pressure on them. When you get done with the work and everything is buttoned back up, just cycle (engine running) all of the cylinders (lift, bucket, 3 point, grapple, etc) a dozen times or so and that will purge any air in the system. Top up the oil & you're golden.

 

Once More - Say It With Me "I will resist the urge to smooth and round off the edges of the spool lands"

 

Try Messicks for your parts - pretty good prices. http://messicks.com

 

Good luck!

 

Paul

[SuiteSuccess]

Hey Suite;

 

You don't need to drain the hydraulic system. Keep a bucket / drain pan handy 'cause it will dump a couple of pints when you first open the system and then will continue to dribble oil everywhere until you're done. Roll the bucket full back and set it on the ground before you start. Crack the hoses on the spool section and operate the lever (engine off) to make sure they don't have any pressure on them. When you get done with the work and everything is buttoned back up, just cycle (engine running) all of the cylinders (lift, bucket, 3 point, grapple, etc) a dozen times or so and that will purge any air in the system. Top up the oil & you're golden.

 

Once More - Say It With Me "I will resist the urge to smooth and round off the edges of the spool lands"

 

Try Messicks for your parts - pretty good prices. http://messicks.com

 

Good luck!

 

Paul

Thanks so much for the help Paul. Will NOT use any files etc.,lol.

[Deezl Smoke]

Thanks so much Rick. Do I need to drain all my hydraulic fluid before removing the valve? If so where is best to bleed the air from the system?

 

No, you can remove the valve without draining the system. If you could get pictures of the valve body and hose connections it would help to know if you have pipe of jic connectors. Then you can buy caps and plugs for the hoses and valve to keep dust and grit out if it is going to be a day or two before getting it running again.

 

Just removing the valve, it will self bleed by cycling the loader fully a few times and re filling the reservoir.

 

Likely the valve is not woods, it will be some hydraulic brand like prince or brand or cross etc. Most of these open center systems run a very simple spool that only requires regular tools to service.

 

The problem I have is when you mention it will catch then move and the loader jumps. But of the loader does not move at all until you pass the catch point, I'm not so sure an o-ring is the issue. It may be, but the loader should still move as the spool moves thru it's bore and opens the ports.

[SuiteSuccess]

Deezl,

 

Posted some pics on page 1. Don't know if they give you the info you need. If not will try to get some more of the connections. I'm sorry I'm not explaining very well so let me try again. My stick works the hydraulics smoothly in all positions ( bucket load and dump, arm up.) but when I am trying to lower the arm the stick "mechanically catches" briefly and then will break loose and the arm will lower but in a jerky fashion. Will try to post a video if I can figure it out. Have to go OOT tomorrow to get my NevRLube bearings pressed in so may be day or two.

[shorts]

What Rick says, you shouldn't loose much fluid but move the tractor onto a hard surface and use some sort of catchment or small parts. Sometimes I'm kind of backwards but I would remove the valve from the tractor and make it a bench project. once you put the loader bucket on the ground and shut down the tractor exercise the valve to release all pressure, mark and photo the 6 hyd lines, pressure in, return to the tank and 1 each for up/down and bucket roll/dump, tape them off to keep them up and from getting dirt in them. unbolt the valve and take it to a clean bench, remove the lever handle and linkage make sure that it moves freely and isn't part of the problem. You should be looking at a 2 spool valve + a pressure relief spool unbolt the covers on the back side of the spools and push them out of the valve body, wash and inspect them carefully for damage or debris, the valve body should have an internal O-ring and wiper for each end of each spool replace them and lubricate with a little oil before reassembly. If you feel the need to reseal the pressure relief cartridge be careful to not reset the pressure by moving the locknuts on the threaded shaft. reassemble the valve and loader and run the tractor and cycle the system to self bleed it, If you are uncomfortable with what you find in the valve their should be a capable hydraulic shop in the area. they should also have seals individually so you can buy only what you need. Parker Hannifin used to publish an excellent hydraulics manual, it's probably available online

[rickeieio]

 

Just curious, but what is the advantage (other than higher octane) to using av gas?

While it's true that av-gas doesn't have ethanol, or at least very little, the real reason to use it is because it's formulated to be stable during long periods of storage. Modern road gas is intended to be consumed quickly, and is pretty volatile. It doesn't store well, whether in a fuel tank or gas can. The lighter bits evaporate leaving varnish. Years of fiddling with motorbikes with 6 carbs has taught me to spend a little to save a lot.

 

As to the octane, it really isn't a factor. Engines make the most power using the octane for which they were designed. Any higher octane is a waste of money.

 

And Carl, if you don't have caps for any open lines or hoses, a paper towel, secured with a wrap or two of electrical tape works as well. In the old days, we used a rag and a twist of baling wire. Orient the hoses so that the open end is "up", thus not having any more oil leak out than necessary. Tarp straps work well to hold them out of the way.

[shorts]

After reading your last post, it sounds like either a lever linkage issue or a centering spring issue on the back of the spool.

[Deezl Smoke]

While it's true that av-gas doesn't have ethanol, or at least very little, the real reason to use it is because it's formulated to be stable during long periods of storage. Modern road gas is intended to be consumed quickly, and is pretty volatile. It doesn't store well, whether in a fuel tank or gas can. The lighter bits evaporate leaving varnish. Years of fiddling with motorbikes with 6 carbs has taught me to spend a little to save a lot.

 

As to the octane, it really isn't a factor. Engines make the most power using the octane for which they were designed. Any higher octane is a waste of money.

 

And Carl, if you don't have caps for any open lines or hoses, a paper towel, secured with a wrap or two of electrical tape works as well. In the old days, we used a rag and a twist of baling wire. Orient the hoses so that the open end is "up", thus not having any more oil leak out than necessary. Tarp straps work well to hold them out of the way.

 

Since we're "off topic" anyway............... Higher octane rating gas has less power per unit of measure than lower octane. It is more stable however which allows a higher performance engine to utilize the extra stability. This was very important in the old days with no computers and carburetor mixing. Today, with the computers and as you mention, engines designed to run on low octane, it is no longer a real issue unless you buy a very high hp sport car that requires it.

[Deezl Smoke]

Deezl,

 

Posted some pics on page 1. Don't know if they give you the info you need. If not will try to get some more of the connections. I'm sorry I'm not explaining very well so let me try again. My stick works the hydraulics smoothly in all positions ( bucket load and dump, arm up.) but when I am trying to lower the arm the stick "mechanically catches" briefly and then will break loose and the arm will lower but in a jerky fashion. Will try to post a video if I can figure it out. Have to go OOT tomorrow to get my NevRLube bearings pressed in so may be day or two.

 

Ok, I understand the difficulty trying to explain something in text and get everyone to understand. It is real difficult at times. But thanks for re-explaining it. It often takes a knock over the head to get me to understand.

 

The valve should have a "float" feature in the down position of the loader, does yours?

[Scrap]

Wish I could help but alls I know is your bucket's been stuck in the air for more than 4 hours and that ain't good!!

 

Do you have a self leveling bucket setup? Does that linkage/valve setup come into play in this trouble?

[rickeieio]

Psssst. Carl.......did ya ever get it fixed?

[SuiteSuccess]

Psssst. Carl.......did ya ever get it fixed?

Sorry Rick, rude to post a question and no result. Yes got her fixed. Wasn't all that bad. Thanks for everyone's help.

[porky69]

And the solution was....?

[SuiteSuccess]

Bad o-rings as Rick suggested. One had rolled and torn a chunk out.

[jkennell]

Ah. SOunds about right. GOod to hear you got it working. A jumpy loader can drive ya nuts. Trying to set that heavy load down nice and gentle on the truck and BAM...

[Bigtrailer]

Just went thru this last week with my Kubota that I bought used from a dealer with 631 hours showing.

 

Mine started just like yours, I let it go thinking it was an oil problem. Nope, seems mine sat for sometime, somewhere and sweated inside the case. I have 634 hours on it, (used it 3 hours), had to take it to my dealer. They found the pump in the casting housing the pump could be spun by hand. They found the casting holding the pump was cracked. $2500 later, it works like new. The cause...... rust. It had sat so long, rust formed inside the case, contaminated the oil, and had enough wear to do the damage. The dealer told me even if I had changed the oil, the damage was already done. Your power steering and rear 3 point all work off the same oil system I believe.

 

Bill