house Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 I just purchased a new to me Freightliner HDT MH that has been singled and the previous owner removed the inside dual wheels because he apparently did not need the capacity, I need to add them back in because I need a bit more weight carrying capacity. Can I use steel wheels on the inners? they are much cheaper I know they will not ride as well because of the unsprung weight but I am not certain in my application that makes too much difference. is there any practical reason steel wheels are a bad idea on the inside? Also, I am pretty sure my wheels are hub centric because they use lug nuts that have a washer on the bottom, is that a pretty safe assumption? Thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Steel on the inside is pretty common. Mine was ordered from the factory that way. 45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Yes and yes. I have chrome steel inside wheels and Alcoa Outers. Factory dose it all the time. And a flat washer would mean hub piloted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 A stud-piloted wheel will have a square on the end of the (what looks like the) stud (but it really isn't). Budd type wheels aren't very common now, unless it is more than 10 yrs old or so it's probably hub. You can put a thin gasket between them to prevent corrosion, though. 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Heiser Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 I have steel on the inside. I thought about upgrading to all aluminum, but I found out my wheel studs weren't long enough to accommodate two aluminum rims together. That saved me some money I didn't really need to spend. 2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift 2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard 2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan 2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage) 2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)My First Solar Install ThreadMy Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the buildMy MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet! chadheiser.com West Coast HDT Rally Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasFlyer Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 What they said! Not uncommon at all. John Southern Nevada 2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift 2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 2017 Can-Am Maverick X3-RS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THE TRAILERKING Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 It's real common to have steel inside wheels. There is usually a plastic shim/gasket in between the aluminum and steel to cut down on corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Well since everyone else answered your questions, guess we will be the ones to welcome you to the dark side and to the Freightliner bunch also. Hope you enjoy your new set up. Pics would be nice! Hope you can make it on of the rally's. Kansas is coming up in October and TN in April. Dave 2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch 2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you! Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/ for much more info on HDT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed6713 Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Anti-sieze compound is commonly used when dissimilar metals are attached to each other. Helps prevent galvanic corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Or you can trade out your Aluminum ones for steel and maybe not have to buy any. My truck had Aluminum when I got it. The holes in the wheels where you have access to the valve stem were very small and my hands just didn't fit at all. Had a low tire alarm on a trip once with the Pressure Pro and when I tried to check the pressure with my tire gauge the core didn't reset and just leaked the rest of the air out of the inner dual. As soon as I got home I changed out the wheels for steel with large openings. I had the tools to change the valve core but couldn't get to it. A $100 service call for a tire service to come to me, remove the outer wheel (they couldn't get to the core either) replace the core and get me filled with air again was enough. Have since taken the pressure pro off and check with a gauge before and during my trips. Just my opinion from my experience. Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Comment on Nevr-Sieze- I love it. BUT- many agencies & experts are discouraging it's use on torque-specific fasteners (like wheel studs) because it alters true torque readings. 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasFlyer Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Comment on Nevr-Sieze- I love it. BUT- many agencies & experts are discouraging it's use on torque-specific fasteners (like wheel studs) because it alters true torque readings. I think the person who mentioned the Nevr-Sieze was referring to applying it on the surface of the wheels, where they make contact with each other, not to the threads. I have seen that done before, though personally, I would just buy the plastic insulator if I were adding aluminum wheels to the outside. John Southern Nevada 2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift 2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 2017 Can-Am Maverick X3-RS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtrailer Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 I have seen vaseline or grease between the steel and aluminum rims, and no corrosion. DO NOT put any kind of lubrication on the threads, you disrupt the torque of the nut. Make sure your studs are able to get a full nut with one or 2 threads showing after tightened down, if putting aluminum rims next to steel. California is very strict about threads showing ........ Or just put lugnut covers over it, and take a chance they don't see it. Bigtrailer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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