RandyA Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 If you have ever visited the OTR Performance web site and watched the video on replacing the turbo boost/temperature sensor you are aware of their statements that if you have over 300K on your engine you should replace the sensor as both mileage and performance are downgraded by the old sensor. They sell the sensor for $150 but are currently out of stock. I decided to replace my sensor. I found a new OEM sensor on-line for $85.00. The replacement requires removing several pieces on the left of the engine to access the socket for the plug on the end of the wiring harness (watch video). I decided NOT to pull the parts off and rather splice the exterior wiring from the old harness to the new harness. I learned to solder and splice in the womb and have been doing it successfully for all my life. For this project I staggered the splices on the four wires, made a Western Union splice, soldered the connection and covered with heat shrink tubing. The secret to a good splice is proper soldering. Make sure you have enough heat to produce a shinny silver joint when the solder cools. A dull gray color indicates a "cold solder joint" that will introduce resistance and fail. The photos below show how I replaced my sensor externally by making splices in the four wires. BTW - have yet to make a trip to see if there is a difference or improvement but looking at the old sensor I feel like something good will come of the project. Accessible OEM boost sensor next to valve cover. New and old sensors. Note the condition of the old sensor (pretty ugly and covered with carbon not to mention a deformed tip!) Sensor mounting hole Four wires spliced Wire loom back in place covering the spliced/soldered/heat shrink joints. TIP: TIP: You will have your butt on top of the power steering unit during most of the job. It gets uncomfortable very quickly. TIP: Put a couple of small shop rags on top of the canister, invert a small pail over the canister and shop towels then put a large towel on top of the pail. Your butt will thank you! Job finished - maybe 30 to 40 minutes total. TIP: When using electrical tape in the engine compartment use a good quality tape like 3M #33. Cheap off-brand tapes are prone to having the adhesive melt and the tape comes loose. Also put a zip tie around the open end of your tape when you finish wrapping to prevent the end from lifting. I'll post the final on-the-road results next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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