How many are using a Gooseneck adapter?

[hbillsmith]

JMorris said: "Now I would love to see some pics of EKBendana's trailer, specifically the hitch area. I have never seen a Fv'r with a factory Gooseneck, I think I would like it."

 

Open Range Light 5er's use Lippert's KingCombo pinbox. That pin box supports either a standard kingpin insert or a Bulldog gooseneck insert. I questioned whether Lippert really supported a gooseneck and Open Range sent me the Lippert approval letters that specify the kingcombo to be OEM installed according to Lippert specs (which they sent me also). Basically, the Lippert specs relate mostly to the Bulldog gooseneck adapter that is specific to the king combo. The specs call for additional welding at the 5er frame. The Open Range design for the 5ers with the King combo pin box follow those weld specs. Changing from kingpin to gooseneck is a 5-minute easy swap that just requires pulling the hitch pin, dropping the king pin, hanging the goose pipe, reinsert the hitch pin. Nothing is heavy and no tools needed.

 

If you order an Open Range Light, it is standard with the king pin adapter. To change it to gooseneck you just order the bulldog adapter ($80 at etrailer). See this youtube video and it will all make sense. This link is their video on how to change the kingpin to gooseneck. The part you want to see is about 2 mins into the 6 min video. "HIghland Ridge RV, Inc - Fun Fact Friday (8-15-14) " Link is here: https://youtu.be/4oXI57SNhgA

 

For what it's worth, I ended up with a Wildcat 5er but liked the gooseneck idea so much that I'm pulling with the Andersen Aluminum Ultimate hitch. It doesn't require any special welds on the fiver because the Andersen design eliminates the typical gooseneck's long post that causes leverage stress and instead the Andersen places the ball on top of a pyramid that distributes the load as is typical in a 5th wheel collar mount.

[mohamer]

I like Anderson Hitches, I have one of the adjustable bumper hitches on the back of my Dodge, very handy.

[RV_]

Some feedback on installing the Andersen Ultimate Gooseneck 5th wheel hitch. I just installed it in the truck bed and on the trailer pin. This thing is scary easy. I mean it, it was so easy I kept thinking I was missing something. I am disabled with four lumbar degenerative diseased and a cervical vertebrae that needs to be replaced. I have trouble getting up in the truck bed recently and with all tat, I could lift it into place alone, and for the first time got the part in the bed done in about twenty minutes.

 

The trailer part was also quick and easy. Took more time to torque the Allen bolts, about three minutes, and three more to install the lock handle self tapping screws. This thing is solid, and extremely well engineered. What's not to love?

 

It is a major advance in fiver towing design and stability.

[spindrift]

I couldn't agree more. Unfortunately, the RV industry is slow to implement change and until the manufacturer's endorse the Andersen, you proceed at your own risk.

[RV_]

Spindrift,

What risk? The trailer weight is at the same height with no stiff lever going down to a ball. There is a ball/motion at the top so if anything, from the trailer's frame point of view, the same or less stress than the less expensive or older "normal" fiver hitches. No risk, no manufacturer endorsement necessary. However, Andersen warrants their hitches for $5 million if a manufacturer declines to cover a repair and claims the Andersen Ultimate was at fault. Go to this page, scroll to the bottom and read the warranty pdf file there. https://www.andersenhitches.com/Catalog/ultimate-5th-wheel-connection.aspx

 

I have seen in every one of the threads about the Ultimate Hitch where actual owners love them and the only objectors never even saw one outside of a picture online or a static display at a show or dealer. I can't say yet whether it tows better or worse than a traditional one because I only yesterday installed it on the truck and trailer pin box, but I haven't taken it for a test drive or maneuvering in and out of traffic. So all I can comment on today is that the install was amazingly easy, and no muscles or vertebrae were harmed or injured in the installation of the product.

 

For me it is as risky as when I took that first leap of faith and connected to my first fiver for the first ever road trip, with a hitch I did not install, and a 92 diesel dually truck barely narrower than the concrete barriers on the construction North of San Antonio I had to maneuver on that first trip to Bossier City to outfit it post retirement. I also did not know that my trailer brakes were not working for that trip. Thank good ness I figured it out before the first trip over hills of I-10 across new Mexico, and then the Grapevine of I-5 just north of LA.

 

I only wish I had this when I did my seven years of fulltiming instead of the old model RBW with only forward and back movement before they came out with their rocker hitches. I found RBW was now Al Ko or some such and have manuals for their previously manufactured hitches, but no new hitches for sale so I guess my old favorite brand of 18 years ago is gone now. I'm glad I did not keep the hitch though because then I would have missed this one.

[spindrift]

RV...you're preechin' to the choir as I have one as well. My point was that Lippert will find a way to void your warranty if you make a claim. Even with the Andersen warranty, you'll have a big hassle factor trying to recover. That is all.

[RV_]

Thanks for clarifying bud! I thought you had one, and was reassuring if you were worried. Heck my stuff is always used and I self insure and keep non collision comprehensive to cover weird stuff. Most folks don't realize that most of the RV warranties are to the first/original owner only regardless of the original term. Most are null and void if you are the second owner regardless of if it is six months after it was first sold to the previous owner.

 

Man I am loving the sturdy and solid feel of it. It wasn't until I put it on the ball and torqued it down, following the manual to the letter, that I realized just what they have done with these. I know it is stronger than my one direction movement last fiver hitch with the flat wobbly sides. I am not using the rail model just the gooseneck model.

 

I just had to chime in. I used to rather take a beating than remove or install my old style hitches. This one is so much lighter and easier. I know, preachin' to the choir. But I have to, as only they(you and other owners) know the song I'm singin!

[EKBendana]

this is our rig forest river work n play 34 fk toyhauker fiver came from factory on goosneck frame

[hbillsmith]

Lippert has in fact issued approval for the Andersen on Grand Design trailers. Search the GRAND Design owners forum for the thread where Lippert responded. By the way, Dave Andersen was able to get an underwriter for their $5M policy based on zero frame damage claims from an installed base of more than 10,000 sold.

[RRman]

Hmm,

Its only a lever if the components PERMIT movement so the forces would have to exceed the strength of the adapter and Pinbox - which should uncommonly happen.

I towed for 7 years and about 25000 miles using a Gooseneck adapter until recently converting to the Reese Goosebox which after 9 months and 5K towing miles was involved in breaking my Front frame after hitting a severe pothole that also partially disabled my truck. I've very seldom stayed in a Campground without at least 1 or often several Fivers with Goooseneck Adapters.

I will post a full report of my experience as a separate topic.

[RV_]

Aiming high,

No one is knocking your position. I used to explain it to folks like this. Lay a wooden chair on its side on the floor. If you pick it up in the middle you can do it with one hand easily. Now try to pick it up by the end of one leg. Not so easy if you can do it at all. While holding the chair in the middle with two hands together, have someone try to move one end. Now grab the very end of one leg with both hands together and have someone try to move the end. Tough nut to crack? Get a longer breaker bar to multiply the forces to make it move. Remember Archimedes? My breaker bar is a lever before, and after it moves the nut. It multiplies my force.

 

Back in 2002/3 I did an article and a post here for a thread after calling all the major manufacturers of the time, and asking all of the manufacturers if they warrant their frame if used with a Gooseneck. Then one follow up question for all, do you manufacture a custom frame with the budgeting and engineering, like the workhorse Gooseneck trailers we see hot shorting major loads with light duty trucks. At that time only New Horizons, and Northwood/Arctic Fox said they would warrant it only if it was ordered to be used and they installed the Gooseneck.

 

Now that was 12 years ago and I'm sure that some custom fivers can still be had, made for, and delivered with, a gooseneck hitch, not an adapter.

 

Now it is obvious you disagree. And that's fine with me. I hate having a short bed but it was a used deal I could not pass up. We are not fulltiming except for a few weeks while our new house foundation is built and concrete poured and our new house set up on it.

 

I was resigned to getting a TT as my Dodge 2500 diesel can tow any trailer in its tow range fine. But then I found the Andersen Ultimate which put all the forces back where they were designed to be exerted.

 

I did, and do, advise folks to get a long bed and a regular fiver hitch, as they get all the extra bed storage too. But for just me, I've been turned by the design of the Andersen from a no gooseneck adapters only with trailers ordered for that, to a believer in this alternative.

 

I do see no reason manufacturers can't build a Gooseneck engineered trailer. Or one that can use either type. I personally won't use a pipe adapter that adds a lever to the pin box that it wasn't designed for. This one meets all my criteria to leave the engineering to the engineers of my rig. If I wanted to engineer my own I'd do that. I don't.

 

I've heard of frames failing with regular hitches too. I imagine had one of those bad frames had a pipe adapter multiplying the forces what would have happened. From my perspective these are made, with a few notable exceptions, with the least spent possible to meet specs. Add up your axle weight limits and then your fiver. If you don't account for the amount in the bed of the TV, it doesn't add up with many rigs.

 

Here is a thread on another forum that shows a disassembled fiver front exposing the cheap welds on a Lippert frame. Why would I want to add a lever multiplying the forces in different directions than a regular hitch (chair leg) when they have problems with designed for stresses. Here's the pix: http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/t4183-so-you-have-a-lippert-frame-and-you-want-to-know-if-you-are-screwed-or-not-inst-inside

 

Bottom line is we each paid for them and can do what we choose with them.

 

We each makes our choices and takes our chances.

[chief916]

I just returned from a 14 day run from Goldsboro N.C. out to Williams A.Z. and back. My hitch is the Andersen Ultimate hitch on a goose neck ball. The coach is a 2013 Heartland 4100 King and the TV is a 2005 Ford F-350 6.0 SRW. At times going through the mountains the speed would creep up towards 70 mph and after going and coming back across Arkansas I'm totally convinced of the strength of this hitch. Some of those sections on I-40 where in such bad repair that we took a beating in the truck but everything held up just fine. I plan to upgrade the truck to a F-450 DW for stability and possibly changing the pin box out for an air ride pinbox. Got to find a F-450 first (any idea's or leads?) and then decide on the pin box. Andersen did a good job with this hitch and my confidence in towing with it has soared.

[Daveh]

I use the 35lb aluminum Andersen Ultimate Fifth Wheel Hitch.........I love love love it.

[Ray,IN]

At my age (72) I would NOT like crawling into the truck-bed to fasten the required safety chains. If a gooseneck is as safe as a king pin why are safety chains required??

[spindrift]

Safety chains are not required for the Andersen hitch.

[RV_]

I checked with our State and Andersen. The reason for no safety chains is obvious once you know why. Many utility gooseneck trailers and ball hitched utility trailers have no built in brakes, or have only surge brakes. Fivers are equipped with the breakaway switch which locks up the trailer brakes. That is why we don't attach chains with any fiver hitch. I do hope folks are attaching their breakaway switch cable!

 

 

Now I can speak to the Andersen in use. OK I only drove it ten miles with the fiver attached and it was great! I had to set the ball to its highest setting to clear he bed and sides. Very stable!

 

I will amend my recommend to extend to those with a long bed too. Especially the Aluminum version we can pick up one handed. Why not have your bed clear in a minute or three? Fast enough to takeoff and on while traveling and in an RV park and need the truck bed clear to haul something.

 

For those thinking it will be hard to back up to like bumper hitches and ball in the truck bed blocked by a back seat or tool box, these are actually easier to see to precision than the regular fiver hutch because the ball and socket are not blocked by the hitch like the pin is from the cab. I don't have to get out to check elevation before backing onto it, or crash it up like some do. You just back your truck under it with no contact hard or gentle, then just lower it onto the ball.

[Daveh]

My dealer said some people carry chains in case an officer that does not know the law gives them a hard time. It technically is not a gooseneck hitch and as RV said there is no practical purpose for chains. I do not use or carry chains. I agree with RV the visibility of the hitch for hooking up is great.

[RV_]

I won't use chains or carry either. If the officer wants to pursue it fine.

 

Dave there is no way to let folks know how easy and strong these Andersen hitches are until they try them, is there? Now the fiver is easier to hitch than a tail-wagger or a regular fiver. Installing it was too easy as long as one has the right size socket and a torque wrench. I keep the torque wrench in the truck now along with the socket needed to remove and install it.

[twhman]

I had a Gooseneck Adapter that I used on a 27' Alpenlite I had previously. I did not like it and got rid of it in a hurry. Seemed to have a lot of jerking and I was afraid that it would affect the integrity of the 5th wheel pin assembly. I was lucky to find a lightly used B&W 5th wheel hitch that plugged directly into the B&W hitch in my truck. Just pull the ball release handle, remove the ball, set the 5th wheel hitch assembly in place with it's tube going in where I removed the ball, release the lever to pop the retaining pin back in, torque the upper bolt to torque. It works great and it is easy to go back to my gooseneck ball for our horse trailer and gooseneck flatbed trailer

[sngplb]

I know this is an old thread, but I have a ball mounting directly to the pinbox (Andersen + 5th Airborne) on a Newmar Mountain Aire, tandem duals and towing with a Freightliner M2-106 Business Class, and have never had an issue! Rides great and really don't know it is back there!

[Bigtrailer]

I have a gooseneck conversion for these reasons:

 

Have seen drivers back into the 5th wheel pin too hard, and collapse their landing legs.

 

More oscillation than a 5th wheel going over a curb.

 

Don't worry about someone pulling the pin in a parking lot.

 

If there was a remote possibility the trailer came loose, it would drop into the box for the ball.

 

My center of gravity is lower than a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck.

 

There is a reason every farmer that pulls livestock, hay, farm tractors, pipe and on and on uses a ball instead of a "Reese Hitch". Think about that on why that is!

 

Bigtrailer

[TXiceman]

I have a gooseneck conversion for these reasons:

 

Have seen drivers back into the 5th wheel pin too hard, and collapse their landing legs.

 

 

 

 

My center of gravity is lower than a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck.

 

Bigtrailer

And your lever arm is longer and putting more stress on the frame in the pinbox area. The CG issue is a non-issue as the greater weight is in the trailer.

 

Ken

[RV_]

There is a reason those Gooseneck trailers are built with more gussets that are quite a bit larger than the gussets of a 5th wheel frame needs to be. No one say don't pull with a gooseneck ball. Just have a custom built trailer, which Arctic fox indicated they would, and warrant it the same. Use one on a trailer designed without the additional gusseting and they will consider the warranty voided.

 

Ever see a 5th wheel RV with a front frame like this? http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=FS

[rickeieio]

 

There is a reason every farmer that pulls livestock, hay, farm tractors, pipe and on and on uses a ball instead of a "Reese Hitch". Think about that on why that is!

 

Bigtrailer

The biggest reason farmers use a gooseneck is that they're too cheap to use a proper hitch for the job. And, it takes up less space in the bed when you're hauling, but not towing.

 

Once I bought a semi (over 15 years ago), I eliminated most all my ball hitches. Won't go back.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

I have a gooseneck conversion for these reasons:

 

Have seen drivers back into the 5th wheel pin too hard, and collapse their landing legs.

 

More oscillation than a 5th wheel going over a curb.

 

Don't worry about someone pulling the pin in a parking lot.

 

If there was a remote possibility the trailer came loose, it would drop into the box for the ball.

 

My center of gravity is lower than a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck.

 

There is a reason every farmer that pulls livestock, hay, farm tractors, pipe and on and on uses a ball instead of a "Reese Hitch". Think about that on why that is!

 

Bigtrailer

But there is also a reason why all the semi's pull with a 5th wheel type hitch.

In the area we are currently in, there are nothing but welding guys with custom welding beds all towing with goosenecks and the majority of the 5th wheels are bent and sagging in the front. I asked one guy about it, his reply was he didn't care. When it broke he would throw it away and buy another cheap 5th wheel.