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What did you do for your truck today?


rickeieio

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Well, it's not the Volvo, but I had some head scratching HDT issues of late.

 

A couple of weeks ago, my work truck, 2000 Mack, fired right up, then started stumbling, as if it were running out of fuel, then quit. Restarted, ran for a few more seconds, and quit again. I was in a hurry, so called a local truck repair shop and they sent a mechanic, who went to work while I ran some errands. When I returned, the truck was sitting there running, and he said all he could find was that the fuel filter ring was 1/2 turn loose. (Davco filter) That filter was last serviced two years ago, and I thought it odd that it had chosen to wait so long to loosen, but I'm not a mechanic.

 

Fast forward to yesterday. I fired up the truck to pull it in for a weekend of tinkering, and it fired, ran for 30 seconds, and stumbled to a stop. This morning, the fuel filter was empty, and the outside of it was dry. Refilled, primed the transfer pump, and got it running and into the shop. After some head scratching, I decided to pull the filter and inspect the gaskets. A-ha! There was a good bit of grit and crud on the gasket in the big ring which holds the inverted "bowl" on the housing. So, off to the Mack dealer for a new filter/gasket set. I'll let it set for a couple of days and see if the fuel level goes down in the glass.

 

While I was at the dealer, he asked if I had the proper wrench to remove the ring on the "bowl". I didn't, and bought one, complete with "Mack" logo, for $10. Sure makes it easier to over-tighten the ring. :o

 

Since it was in the warm and dry shop, I set about polishing the headlights. I used a Meguiar's kit, 1000 grit pad followed by 3000 grit, then polish, and finally sealer/protectant. Oh my, the difference. This truck only gets about 2000 miles/year, and little of that is at night, so new headlights are not something I want to spring for. We'll see how it works out.

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Today's completed work was to replace the wear blocks on the spring perch, replaced the torque bar (panhard bar), reset ride height to 7 3/4, fix the air leaks on the ET air bag fittings.

Tomorrow will work on replacing the a/c hose from compressor to condenser, replace the high side transducer, replace the front expansion valve, including inspecting the evaporator for debris to restrict air flow, inspect all doors in the evaporator case, and if time permits pull the a/c controls to inspect them for wear, and find out why they levers move hard and not complete on travel.

Start the repair of the passenger side door panel that is broken at attachment points at top of panel. New panel is over 600.00 and after buying a new upper crash pad for the passenger side of dash including the 2 vents for 600.00 (no I did not price it till I picked it up, about craped my pants) I am into repairing what I can at this point.

 

Not asking to much of me on Sunday is it?

 

Roger

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Rick,

 

If you find it dry again remove the inlet line to the filter housing and make sure the big check ball is clear of grit and grime. That checkball is there to prevent the fuel from draining your fuel rail and filter housing back into your fuel tanks.

Thanks for the tip. I figured there was a check valve in there somewhere, but hadn't found it.

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Sitting here in the cold Wisconsin winter, all I got to do was brush the snow off of the Volvo & longingly ponder what task I will do come Spring. Roger, a nice warm shop would do wonders for me right now. I can't get the 770 to fit through the 10' garage doors.

Happy New Year, everybody.

Todd

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Well, I may start washing mine today..... maybe.

 

Today's goals are:

 

Check that fuel level in filter is stable.

Use my nifty new air leak detector to sniff out leaks.

Clean and lubricate fifth wheel. (This is a working farm truck)

Vacuum cab.

Check air pressures.

Wash and wax cab.

Sit under the infra-red heater with a nice Rocky Patel 1990. (cigar)

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Well, OK, Rick....I may also clean the interior......

 

I need to play some more with the ultrasonic sniffer, too. But that will wait.

 

Plus, I have a "service" light that comes and goes, that no one can catch a code on. Nothing shows on the drivers display. I HATE that. I would bet money that it relates to pollution control elements.....but we will see eventually. I'm considering having my DPF cleaned.....It likely does not need it yet, though.

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Got to the shop, cranked up the heat, raised the hood on the Mack to find an empty filter. After some exploratory surgery and unnecessary disassembly, found the check valve is indeed leaking. A little Googling found the Davco site that said the check valve is so you don't loose fuel during a filter change. I'm going to put in a new valve anyway. There is still likely a leak on the low pressure side letting air into the system, between the tank and the fuel pump. Only two lines and a dozen fittings.

 

Oh well, still plenty of things left on the list.

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Rick,

 

If you see bubbles in your filter bowl I'd say you have an airleak. If you don't see any bubbles you most likely have no airleaks. I suspected my checkball (looks like a ping pong ball) was bad at one point aND tried to buy a replacement and was told I had to buy a whole filter assy as it was no longer available.

 

When you removed the fuel line did you see the quantity of fuel in your clear housting go down and drain back through the fitting your inlet line was connected?

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GoldRush,

 

My check ball is roughly 5/8" diameter. It's built into a fitting which screws into the filter base on the inlet side. I removed and cleaned it, no visible wear, but it still leaks, about a drop every 5-10 seconds.

 

The filter runs with a slight vacuum on the canister, and if the filter-pump hose has a leak, it could let in enough air to let the filter drain back to the tank without visible bubbles (bubbles would be inside the filter). I did change the transfer pump last summer, so will look there first.

 

I suppose I could leave the element out, refill the canister, and see if/where the bubbles appear to originate.

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Check that fuel level in filter is stable. It's not. :(


Use my nifty new air leak detector to sniff out leaks. Not done.


Clean and lubricate fifth wheel. (This is a working farm truck) Done.


Vacuum cab. Not done.


Check air pressures. Not done.


Wash and wax cab. Not done.


Sit under the infra-red heater with a nice Rocky Patel 1990. (cigar) DONE! :D



I did spend 1/2 hour adjusting and tightening mirrors, change a clearance light bulb, cleaned a bunch of dirt out of the tray under the windshield, and changed the electric "umbilical cord" to the trailer, which involved cutting and replacing dozens of zip ties.


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Rick,

If you see bubbles in your filter bowl I'd say you have an airleak. If you don't see any bubbles you most likely have no airleaks. I suspected my checkball (looks like a ping pong ball) was bad at one point aND tried to buy a replacement and was told I had to buy a whole filter assy as it was no longer available.

When you removed the fuel line did you see the quantity of fuel in your clear housting go down and drain back through the fitting your inlet line was connected?

Gold,

 

I bought just the check ball and spring last year as a spare. Will try to see if I can find where I got it. Was all of about $6.00. On edit try this http://www.amazon.com/Davco-101132-Check-Valve-Service/dp/B008VC77RS/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=103AABHJQHNYB4MFNJYE

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work on replacing the a/c hose from compressor to condenser, Not completed

replace the high side transducer, Not completed,

replace the front expansion valve, including inspecting the evaporator for debris to restrict air flow, inspect all doors in the evaporator case, and if time permits pull the a/c controls to inspect them for wear, and find out why they levers move hard and not complete on travel. Found that all air doors working good and no restrictions from debris, did find that the heater water valve mounted in the evaporator case was leaking and needing replaced, did not pull the evaporator out a this time to check for debris on the front side.

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HI RICK!

You can buy the ball and spring, they come together, at most any truck dealer for $6 to $10 dollars, and you might give NAPA a call.

If you have the Davco model that has an other plastic collar/ring on the bottom of the unit it takes a special square cut "O ring". About 1/8th. square, that one is also about $10. If you see bubbles in the globe that gasket may be the culprit, assuming you put the new gaskets in when you replaced the filter, regardless of brand the filter comes with new gaskets (O rings) for the top cap and the plastic globe ring. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!

 

roadfitter

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Ken,

 

The filter came with the o-ring and the square cut ring. I'd guessed that the square-cut was for the bottom, but you have to remove the water lines to access that ring. I'd rather not, if I don't need to. Tomorrow I'll get the new check valve and cross my fingers. Fortunately, the Mack dealer makes a parts run past my shop daily. Great service, plus he gives me fleet pricing on both Mack and Volvo parts.

 

And yes, both trucks use the Davco 382. The Davco site says to tighten the ring hand tight, then two more ribs with the special wrench.

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I was planning on washing and cleaning my truck the other day.... NOT DONE. My excuse is that it rained :) Richard and Sharon rolled in here the other day...maybe he will wash my truck. I noticed his rig is clean!!

 

I've been thinking of removing and capping at the source the heater lines to the Davco 382. I don't need heated fuel on my use of the truck and I figure it is one less thing to go wrong. Just a thought at the moment. Comments???

 

Oh, and Z - the reciprocity links on that site are likely as good as any. You still have to check each state yourself if you are doing anything unusual and actually "care".

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