Parrformance

Cory, have you driven the truck recently? Check the air in the tires, check your brakes are functioning, and take it for a spin. Check for new fault codes when you are done. Have the oil leak addressed, and then take on the next important issue. Don't be afraid to look for the air leaks yourself, mark them with tape, post up what and where, so we can help. Michael

I was thinking as my truck ages, I could add some new ground straps at strategic locations to improve ground. This is what brought me to read the entire original story, and share it with the group.

Read this, this morning. I found it interesting. Believe in Bad Grounds I have read manufacturer tips about checking ground connections before replacing electronic parts. I have even written articles about checking ground connections, adding ground wires, and using voltage drop testing before replacing parts. But despite all my wisdom, I still went ahead and unnecessarily replaced the Engine Control Module (ECM is Ford's EEC-IV) on my wife's 1993 Ford Tempo when the ECM really "just" had a ground connection problem. A Hemmings article on Ford's EEC-IV says it is known for "extreme sensitivity to ground circuit issues" and "a high-impedance ground would drive it crazy." Rather than feeling too guilty for not practicing the grounding rules that I preach, I feel like the "crazy" EEC-IV has taught me additional Yoda-level grounding knowledge that is valuable to owners of other computer-equipped vehicles. Parts that temporarily "fixed" the problem 1. With grounding problems, new parts may bring relief, but that relief may also be increasingly short lived. A grounding problem can persist for years. Replacing parts can temporarily fix/hide the problem for years as well. Disconnecting/reconnecting electrical connectors, removing/reinstalling mounting bolts and/or a fresh, completely in-spec. part might be enough to improve the ground connection. But, the root-cause grounding problem might still be there and possibly worsening. The fuel pump in my wife's Ford would stop (no sound from fuel tank). A new Ignition Starter Switch fixed the problem for a few years and a new Fuel Pump fixed the problem for a few more years, cleaning the electrical connector on the Body Control Module (BCM contains the fuel pump relay) fixed the problem for another fourteen months, replacing the BCM fixed the problem for two days, replacing the ECM fixed the problem long enough for one round-trip to the grocery store. Forums are full of posts from Tempo, Mustang and other Ford EEC-IV owners with nearly identical stories. They gradually replace all the major parts connected to the circuit, reporting temporary success after every install. Sometimes, they start replacing the same parts for a second time and those new parts fix things for an even shorter period of time or don't help at all. 2. It looks exactly like a desktop computer problem, but that might mean your old PC just had a grounding problem too. After a cold-start, the engine in my wife's Ford would run for about ten minutes and then the fuel pump would shut down. After a minute or two, the fuel pump would come back to life and the engine would restart and run another three minutes. The Ford's OBD I diagnostic connector conveniently has a pin that turns on the fuel pump whenever it is grounded. The fuel pump always ran fine with that pin grounded, so it was not the fuel pump overheating. (The ECM turns on the fuel pump relay by providing a ground, so manually grounding that OBD I connector pin might provide a good ground connection to the fuel pump relay that the ECM no longer has on its own.) I guessed that an electronic component on the computer's circuit board was overheating, shutting off and restarting after cooling down. That is when I finally replaced the ECM and enjoyed one trip to the grocery store before the fuel pump stalling started again. Old PCs and laptops also sometimes repeatedly shutdown and restart as they heat up and cool off. The last time I had a PC do that, I called the computer manufacturer and was told to unplug all the cables and hold the computer's power button in for thirty seconds to "drain away static electricity." The PC was not dead, it was just experiencing something similar to a grounding problem. 3. Accept the solution even if you cannot adequately explain it. I spent six long years studying electrical engineering, and I wanted an elegant solution. I had replaced, tested and/or cleaned every part, connector and ground connection I could reach. In the '80s, there is no way Ford Engineers could have known how well every ground path in their EEC IV designs would hold up after thirty years. I decided I would try to enhance their original design. I took a 12 ft. long battery Jumper Cable (available at RockAuto.com!) and clamped one end to the engine ground near the battery, then with the ignition key on and the car in its broken state, I started clamping the other end of the cable to metal points all over the car while listening for the fuel pump to start up. I had some inconsistent false positives but finally found the sweet spot when I clamped the ground wire onto the large Spare Tire Hold Down bolt in the trunk. With that bolt grounded, the engine/fuel pump stayed running indefinitely and always started up immediately. I am guessing my jumper cable was providing a new ground path for the nearby fuel pump. Maybe the fuel pump's ground path had changed over time, sucking the life out of the sensitive computer's ground path at the front of the car. I would probably have to get my doctorate in electrical engineering to know for sure. The jumper cables running over the roof of the Ford looked tacky, so I ran some heavy gauge Primary Wire I had on hand from the main engine ground to a new bolt on the firewall and then I ran more wire from the engine ground to three separate new bolts mounted near the spare tire well in the trunk. There was an unused hole and grommet in the right front door jam so the new cable installation is professional-looking and out of sight. All the heavy wire might have been overkill, but I wanted to make sure I did not inadvertently burn up a too-thin wire, and I wanted to be sure that both the computer at the front of the car and the fuel pump at the rear of the car had excellent, independent ground paths. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com

I have used a cheap battery minder from Northern Tool for over a year. Seems to be doing the job, and currently on sale for $24.99. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201

Deep Space, nuff said.

God Bless, Darryl, have a great weekend. Thank you, Michael

I am happy to say Darryl was right, in between work and kitchen remodels and auto repair, wife's car, abmbd auto repair, son's Jeep, and auto repair, my pick up truck, and plumbing, outside spigot steel pipe broken inside the block, I ordered and received the check ball kit for the Davco fuel filter assembly. I took a break from all the other exciting work I am currently doing and R&R'ed the kit. I refilled the filter assembly and reprimed the truck, and it fired off as normal. I was optimistic but wanted to be sure this was indeed the fix so I drove it for 4 miles, parked it and started it back up. 😄 Started it two more times last night, then went out and started it and drove it this am. All good. Darryl was right. Darryl was right. The existing ball from the Davco was black, and about 5/8ths the size of the white ball that came in the new kit. Am I to assume it was worn down that much, or is the bigger ball an update? Thanks all, especially Darryl, I was becoming a little frantic and overwhelmed. I got to go back and install some new kitchen cabinets now. Michael

Thank you Scrap, Jim, Rick, Jay, I hope to get to the repairs/diagnosis this weekend. I want to replace the Davco ball and spring kit, replace the hand primer kit, if I can find it online, and the check valve, if I can find it on the truck. Michael

I have changed all the o-rings with the Davco. I have not replaced anything with the spring and ball. I will order one tomorrow. I will give the video a check see, YouTube is definately my go too source with new projects. We have been remodeling the kitchen, and I am struggling to find time to concentrate on the truck issue. I am hoping it is not the injector cups.

Sooo..... Finally need to readdress this D12 Volvo losing Prime. I have replaced both filters, the Davco, and the one mounted on the motor. I checked the ball and spring, in the Davco, looks good and spring is intact. Spring does not seem very strong but does push the ball back when you release it. I replaced the Overflow Valve. I am not sure what would be the best procedure going forward for adding clear lines to try and see the air bubbles in the fuel lines. Must I purchase the kit, or can I cobble something together to do this. Would any of you have experience with using a mobile mechanic, would this be among their services. I now am having trouble getting the truck started. I can pump the primer 3 or 4 times and the pressure gets hard. Waiting a minute or two and the hand primer will once again need 3 or 4 pumps to pump it back up. The pump does not take 75 or 100 pumps to prime solid, just a 1/2 dozen will make it to hard to continue to pump.

Someone told me to expect to replace the turbo every 500,00 miles. Your good. do check the impeller in the cold side next time you are checking the air filter. Look for play and especially a missing/chipped vein.

978,755, I have no idea if it was original turbo, but it was an OEM turbo. The turbo had the VOLVO on the cool side.

I am still experiencing a fuel pressure problem, when I can get the truck to start it runs and drives fine. I have replaced both filters, made sure all o-rings and seals were new and no o-rings left behind from original filter. When priming the truck with the Bosch manual primer the pressure comes up quickly, like three or four pumps. Sometimes it will start right up, sometimes not at all. I quickly find that the pump is again in need of a few strokes to get the pressure back. While pumping, I can hear clicks in the head like something is closing/opening/filling. After four or five pumps, the hand pump is to hard to physically move by hand. I think I want to replace the overflow valve next, seems like a simple repair. I have replaced one in my Dodge Cummins to fix a low fuel pressure issue. May I ask if this Overflow Valve is at the front side of the valve cover, and does anyone know if there is a check valve in the fuel pump as well? When replacing the fuel filter in the Davco, I found that there was enough crap in the bottom of the housing to prevent fuel from being released out of the water drain bowl valve. I completely emptied and cleaned the housing until it was spotless. put the new filter in, filled with fuel, couple pumps with the primer and truck started and ran fine. I shut it off, went inside for a celebratory beverage, and lunch. Came out decided to move the truck of the slight incline hill it is currently sitting upon, and no joy. Pumped the primer as much as I could but unable to start again. I found the check ball in the Davco, the spring is still present as well as the ball, spring seems week, but don't suspect it needs to be tighter, it closes up when you release the spring, I suspect it is fine. I am hoping you will tell me the overflow valve is worn out and not keeping pressure high enough to always start the truck.

This one works to remove the lug nuts off my Volvo VNL 780 https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2767-20-Torque-2-Inch-Friction/dp/B07L4R576Y/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/145-3314013-2651210?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B077H7JP1D&pd_rd_r=a24c5c81-c0d6-4b4c-b8a2-d81b9d2e704e&pd_rd_w=gLvtD&pd_rd_wg=8FhmS&pf_rd_p=fd08095f-55ff-4a15-9b49-4a1a719225a9&pf_rd_r=0A1NWRZ6XCGPGP5A9WQM&refRID=0A1NWRZ6XCGPGP5A9WQM&th=1

Best I understand, these are the three pressure sensors for the three air tanks on the second gen Volvo.

The passthrough(Volvo) under the dash above your left foot.

Like this one?

Thank you for the update:)

From the times I have tried it, I was able to heat the connectors and twist them apart while the glue is hot and malleable.

I would suspect it would work both ways, if you remove the threaded end, you may also be able to remove the short connector pipe as well. Then replace with a more suitable length of pipe to add the SharkBite.

You could heat the threaded PVC reducer enough to remove it from the surrounding pipe. Then replace with a length of pipe suitable for the shark bite. This would reduce the number of connections. Be gentle when adding heat to the PVC, you only want to soften the glue and twist out the threaded adapter. Look for a video on the YouTube on removing and reusing PVC elbows and the like. The Sharkbite should also help to isolate vibrations.

I prefer the Optima Yellow tops, I have them in my Jeep, my Dodge One Ton, and the ancient ones from the Dodge are now in the trailer. One is 10 years old and the other is 11 years old. I use them to make coffee, watch tv and toast bread in the camper when traveling. I keep them topped off with a battery minder.

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-UXL0141-Coupling-1-1-Brass/dp/B07MH1SD2H/ref=sr_1_7?gclid=Cj0KCQiA9dDwBRC9ARIsABbedBMuY7bYFxA7tqfTr7PT8aCwZas9RNfAalF3KJ9Z6LQHPqabl43O9uAaAtx4EALw_wcB&hvadid=338615264860&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9012166&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=16644702487210639537&hvtargid=kwd-678922961694&hydadcr=12614_9717098&keywords=1-1%2F2+sharkbite&qid=1578427304&sr=8-7

I bought the factory pins from Dex if I remember correctly https://www.dexheavydutyparts.com/

So....... Between rain drops, I moved the truck in the driveway and chalked the wheels. Released the park brake, first thing I noticed was a lot of travel from the pushrod. I adjusted the slack adjuster, shoes tight to the drum, then pried up the cam lock and backed off a 1/2 turn. Then found a new leak on the center air tank. Removed the leaky fitting, disassembled the PTC, removed the brittle O-ring, and replaced with new. Trimmed the air line, and reassembled. No more leak there. Restarted the truck, released the parking brake, and climbed under the truck. Heard an air leak internally on the park side of the can where the brakes stick. Replaced the piggy back, readjusted the slack adjuster took the truck for a spin, parked it. Came inside had a beer, then wrote this long winded explanation of what I did so far. Now I am going to have another beer. I will check the truck again on Monday.👍