Av8r3400

I just received from Don Rowe my Kisea Abso 2000. Hoping for warm weather to get it installed before April... Jack Mayer - You recommended to me once a while back a source for the chrome (stainless?) plugs for shore power and block heater, can you remind me where they come from?

Counting the days to our season opening trip...

Thank you all for the input.

A little off topic, but does your transmission shift through all 18 in normal operation or does it skip up and down if conditions don't need all 18? On topic - I'm following this because I do not have a locker in my truck at this time and this is the one option that I would like to add to the chassis. Is it possible that I could use the existing pneumatic plumbing for the power divider to run the locker? (No additional switches or computer programming needed) Since I'm singled the PD is no longer there and I use that switched air currently for the hitch. I plan to change my hitch air to a constant source rather than switched.

Not being an electronics expert, having a "pure sine" wave inverter makes "cleaner" power for use with sensitive electronics? Does this really matter for normal electric use? (EG a window fan, phone charger or even laptop charger I have a new 12v Volvo fridge in there) I could understand if I was plugging in an actual desktop computer or something like that. I see the Kisae model makes a little more (and pure sine) power for only a moderate ($50) more than the Xantrex. Thanks again for taking questions from the extreme ignorant.

I'm looking for recommendations and opinions on an inverter/charger for my Volvo. I've had my eye on a Xantrex Freedom 1800 watt model for some time, but I'm curious if there is a newer/better model. What are you all using and what do you like - dislike about it?

I'm in, if there's room!

Only if she has her chain drive wallet and engineer boots to match...

Love my Garmin DEZL. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010D2URZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Has a built in Dash-Cam which is mandatory IMO with an HDT.

Done.

There are a couple of good videos, too.

Where was it? I never heard of it either...

Lovin' my Deep Space Lights, too. At this point probably the best "modification" I've done to the truck...

I have an iShift Trans in my Volvo with the "primium" shifter. Lately we have had some issue going into reverse. It acts like the shift handle is not moving far enough to get reverse. Some fiddling and patients gets it into reverse and all was well. Today we went to drive the truck, the shifter was in the "retracted" position. It was moved upright to neutral and then into "drive". The driver display showed "manual" and trying to put it into "drive" didn't change anything on the display. The shifter was in effect stuck in "manual". It wouldn't go to "drive", "neutral", or "reverse". I drove the truck home where I have tools and could do something. (The local dealer was the first choice, but they closed at noon...) When we got home, I parked the truck where I could pull it around and get it out again if the shifter fix was unsuccessful. I took off the cover of the shift handle and took it all apart. I should have video'ed the process, but I was able to figure out the mechanism and found the main shifter arm attached to the handle had come out of it's proper position, not allowing proper shifting. There is what is best described as a "sensor" on the left side of the mechanism and the shift handle and buttons move little arms with small magnets on them for the sensor to follow. (Seems a little over complicated to me, but I'm not an electrical engineer...) Kind of a Pandora's box of pieces and parts. Some patients and putzing around with all the little bits and I was able to figure it out. I got it back together and it is working properly now. I wish I had an exploded view of this assembly... When I was having issues with going into reverse, I asked the dealer if the shifter could be out of adjustment or something. I was told it was a "non-serviceable" item and would need to be replaced and the computer reprogrammed to match a new shifter, to the tune of near $2000...

I just converted to 17.5 Alcoas. I needed to replace the brake drums with 9/16" studded drums. This allows for the "Hub Piloted" 17.5 wheels to center properly. My OEM 1/2" stud drums were "stud piloted" therefore not compatible with the new wheels. I got the entire kit of drums, wheels, lugs etc. from Southwest wheel. I sourced the tires locally. I was a little disappointed with the Chinese "bearings in a bag" that came with the kit. I replaced them all with name brand "Timken" bearings and seals. I went with an 245/70R17.5 18 ply 6200 pound tire. No more blowouts. Wheels and tires will follow me to new trailer when that happens.

Best of luck with the surgery, Randy. You looked like the pain was terrible. Prayers to you that is s successful and the recovery is quick!

As the others have said, this usually isn’t a “Pay at the pump” process.

Glad to hear you are doing well, Nigel. Missed you guys this year at the ECR. Hope to see you there next year...

I totally agree.

Why on God’s green earth would you continue to run 16s on this trailer and not convert it to 18 ply commercial 17.5s? Im about to do this with my trailer after only one blowout of my 16s.

The factory installed fridge is 12 volt not 110. The dealer will not service them, only replace. Something like $1200. I think there was a thread not long ago about simple repairs to fix a non functioning fridge. Try the search function.

The jaws on the Comfort Ride hitch failed.

Whoo-Doggie. I'd like to see the RV hauler that would fit a 16V-149. 1600 hp, 4,600 pound-feet of torque, weighing 11,000pounds.... This is just a "little" 16v92...

One of the nicest in the community, Brett.

Chris - sorry to hear about your dog. 😓