Alie&Jim's Carrilite

Walmart is the same way. Every time we spend a night there we pay the store at least $100!

Working in Bismarck ND for the next 6-8 weeks. Had a great ride here from Atlanta. Tried to stay on most US routes instead of interstates.

Welcome to the forum Rod, The tandem vs single discussion is usually based on weight. There are several here that are at or over the weight rating for a single rear axle. For better answers, repost your question by itself in a new thread. It will be seen by more folks.

North Carolina was the same way. Back in time NC was a major tobacco producer. Kids were needed in the fields to get the crop in. Tabacco built most of the major cities there, Raleigh, Durham, Winston-Salem to name a few.

Yes, this is for Texas residents only. Each state sets its own licensing requirements, but most follow a general class by weight, passenger, etc.

Awesome! The first Georgia motorhome built on a custom HDT chassis! When the future time comes to sell it, having it originally titled as a motorhome goes a long way.

The sad thing is I don't know exactly when I lost the trailer brakes. I know I had them on the way to the ECR (dirt/gravel) because I skidded the tires coming out of the park we were in New Orleans to check them, but can't really say we had them since. Hayes is going to work with me on a replacement. Not completely free, but they admitted that they have had a bad run of controllers in the past. Good enough for me.

And the verdict is in.... Someone let the smoke out.... After running around with a meter all morning and getting an array of voltages and amperages, I disconnected the Hayes and did a homemade harness to try a Prodigy P2. With my truck wiring spliced to the P2, everything worked as designed with manual level depressed. Have 12+volts at the main splice in the brake harness in front of the axles. So since I already bought the Hayes, lets take it apart.... My best non-electronic guess is that something let the magic smoke out. Best guess is an internal short of some sort by the way it looks with the cover off... hot and smoked I'll call Hayes in the morning and see if they'll replace it although its over a year old. But to buy another $300 controller I might add another 200 and go with the Direct link

Which part? If the rain holds off, I'll get more individual readings at each wheel. But the unit itself was only putting out 2.4amps at 90psi of brake pressure. Dialing it back, it lost less than 1amp.

I know, that's why I'm asking before I call the company. Knowing that another RV is in our future, I also need to know that the "NE" will work with our electric drums. I like the ability to have the ABS feature on disc brakes in the future.

Vern, When we had the Dodge truck and a P3 controller, I could skid the tires at will by moving the manual lever. Not following this statement- "Also if there is anyway for the controller to sense motion it probably will not pass needed voltage to test the brakes for proper amperage while sitting still." Th Hayes controller is the air over electric. Takes air from the brake circuit when applied, converts it to an electrical charge to output to the brakes- http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Hayes/HA100400C.html Probably should have put that in the main post- Pulling the breakaway cable shows about 10amps at the main splice that feeds each wheel. Normal full is supposed to be 4 amp per magnet, 12amp total, so for line loss, etc, 10 Amp should be good.

Following another topic about the Hayes air to electric brake controller, http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Hayes/HA100400C.html, and its rudimentary design has caused me to rethink the Hayes that we have in our Volvo. I realize that I have told several others that the Hayes works and is simple, it does (or did) for us. But I'm beginning to have second thoughts. With the resistance knob turned all they way counter clockwise I can feel a tug from the trailer, but in no way was it attempting to lock the brakes. We moved recently from one side of the park we're in too another a better site. The .5 mile journey was all on sand packed roads, so I played with the controller the entire distance. Not once could I skid the tires on sand. They would slow the truck, but even in gear at idle the truck would pull thru the trailer brakes. First idea was to make sure that the trailer brakes were operating correctly. Pulled 2 of the Neverlube Drums off (aggravating enough in itself) inspected parts, wires, magnets, etc. Those 2 look great. Very little wear on the pads and drums. Second idea was to make sure all the wiring was in working order. Had a neighbor plug in his truck, F350, and step on the brakes. With 1 trailer wheel jacked up, the brakes were tight. I could not rotate the tire at all. Now doing all this jacking the tires up, and crawling around underneath gave me the proper excuse to buy another tool. Enter a clip on DC amp meter. UTI design, Amazon next day delivery, decent reviews. So I started re-chasing the lack of brake issue with the meter. Started at the trailer axles working forward. Worked all the way to the Hayes Controller.... Its output is 2.4 amp at full resistance. Should be around 11 amps. (Should have started at the front) Time to rethink the Hayes.... Knowing others have had issues with their Hayes, is it worth replacing 1 Hayes with another and hope it operates better, or just go with the Direct link? So- Has anybody put a Direct Link controller in an older Volvo- 1998 era, and what was the total price? Off the DL site- Controller is $345 Cables $124 for the Freightliner 6 pin cable- I assume the Volvo cable would be the same 6-pin round port I have under the left side of the dash Is this all that's needed? Can it really be this easy to spend more money on this trucK! I would replace with disc brakes. But the Neverlube axles would have to be replaced, and if we're replacing axles then we're doing MorRyde IS, and we're spending $5500 instead of $500....

We do the same as ToddandHeather except it's just me working. Alie is a retired nurse and draws her pension and SS. Me on the other hand, have a few more years to go so I walk around looking for gas leaks.

There should be an adapter plate you can buy to fit. Not hard to make your own though, just both sets of holes drilled in a piece of steel or aluminum plate.

We are back in Eastern NC. Made a long day Saturday, 12 hours 700 miles, and then another 350 today. New Orleans was great, but the job is here in Greenville NC now.

Got back to New Orleans around 7 last night. Would have been earlier but had to backtrack around Laurel Mississippi due to an overturned semi blocking the southbound lanes.

PM me your e-mail or phone # and I'll contact you. I've been with SC for over a year now and like it. Currently at the ECR rally in Crossville TN so it might be later when I get back to you.

Southern Cross is expanding into more utility areas beyond the gas survey and meter replacement. Water meters are also being replaced, gas meter index's are being swapped for ERT style, all the street lighting that is halogen or mercury vapor are being changed to LED etc. Plus every month there are miles of new gas piping being laid. All the new natural gas wells have piping that has to be inspected quarterly. Many systems are moving to a 3-year survey instead of 5-year. There is no lack of work.

Site 310 Deer Run Resort! ECR we are here!

Why? My wife tests our smoke alarm all the time cooking. All your doing is letting it detect the gas. Reset it and leave it alone. As someone that has had CO poisoning and survived, I would suggest that the monitors need to be where your head stays, bed height in the bedroom, sitting head height in the living room. I replaced the all in one unit with 3 separate alarms, 1 bedroom CO, 1 livingroom CO, 1 propane at living room floor height

Do you have an animal, cat or dog that happens to lay in front of it.... We changed brands of dog food once.... never again.

Excel did it on their Winslow line 2 years ago. Then they crashed and burned...

There have been several topics about using the correct fuel filters. 1 brand, can't remember which, doesn't seal as well and lets air into the system.

Is it turning over slow or acting like it's not getting fuel? if turning over slow- Check your battery terminals. Make sure their tight. How old are the batteries?

I have taken time off between jobs with no issues. Work a project, finish, take our time going to the next site, and start / check in when I'm ready to go. I try to keep my boss informed of the when and were's and haven't had any issue in almost a year with them.