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Did a search for the info in the title and nothing useful came back so here I go. 

During the latest cold snap I disconnected from the "City" water and started using the full fresh water tank. Usually that's not an issue, but I noticed during the night I'd hear the water pump cycle and found some dampness around the pump where it was installed. 

The immediate fix was to turn the pump on only when required and that worked well. A couple of days ago I decided to try and investigate further, but really could not see where the pump was, or is leaking. I've removed it from the mount, but left it in the compartment and the compartment has not completely dried yet. (There were plenty of leaks as I was removing the pump and I found my water heater drains back into the fresh tank when all water is shut off.) I now know why my electric heating element failed, apparently when I had the inverter and batteries replaced there was enough current to heat up the element while moving down the road. I'll fix that too. 

So I went on line first and of course Amazon came up first in the search, but I'm looking for info about rebuilding the pump. There is a bit of crusting near the outlet side where the housing mates with the plastic hooked to the round motor. I'm wondering if I need to see if there is a "Gasket" set I can use.  Anybody taken one apart? 

 

Thanks in advance for any responses. 

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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2 hours ago, lappir said:

A couple of days ago I decided to try and investigate further, but really could not see where the pump was,

What I have done to find the location of a leak is to wrap a paper towel around each possible location and then test the system for a short time. The towel will show effects from being wet even if it should dry before you get back to it. Locating the source is usually the most difficult part. 

2 hours ago, lappir said:

I'm looking for info about rebuilding the pump.

Many pumps do have rebuild kits available but if the leak is from the pump housing that will probably mean replacing the pump. Before you to that make sure that it isn't just a fitting that is leaking. 

2 hours ago, lappir said:

I found my water heater drains back into the fresh tank when all water is shut off.

Does the water tank get full when the RV is connected to city water? If so that does mean that the pump is not acting as a check valve as they should. I don't remember having heard of a water heater emptying back to the tank before but if it did with the electric element turned on, it would likely destroy it in time. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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    First thing is I am glade you figured out the heating element question?

 

    I do remember about a rebuild kit was available. I think I did one years ago. But that is foggy in my mind. 

    A few years ago mine had a very small leak. I just replaced it.  Although I still have the old one.  For some reason.

    If you do rebuild it. I would suggest that after you get it apart, to use vinegar to remove the stains on the parts. Normally the white stain is calcium deposits. Reddish brown would be iron.   Using vinegar will not harm any sealing surfaces. It will probably take numerous applications of vinegar, but is the safest way to do it.

  Using any mechanical way may hurt the sealing surfaces.

 

  Hope these thoughts help.

Edited by Wrknrvr
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Due some shopping. Last fall I had to winterize for a week, the pumped worked good. Two weeks later put water in the fresh water tank and flushed the water lines on city water. Next day turned on the pump and no water moved. Motor run. 

I looked and found a rebuilt kit for my M/N pump. Something like $65 but a new pump (same M/N) was less $100 or pump over $200 at a famous Camp  _ parts business.

Clay

 

 

Clay & Marcie Too old to play in the snow

Diesel pusher and previously 2 FW and small Class C

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13 hours ago, ms60ocb said:

Something like $65 but a new pump (same M/N) was less $100 or pump over $200

A lot depends on which Sureflo pump you have. Amazon Sureflo pumps

The same is true of Sureflo Rebuild Kits from Amazon or other places.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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lappir, I have successfully rebuilt a few pumps over many years of RVing no problems (Amazon and E Bay etc can be your friend) HOWEVER if the unit has some age on it,,, and comparing the cost difference plus labor,,,and IFFFFFFFFFFFF I wanted a bit more CFM and/or Pressure,,,or noise level was a concern,,  I often just opted for a new unit ....................

 

PS any leaks on the Suction/Input side are crucial, check for that,,,,,,,,,,,,,Any leaks on the output can damage the RV floor grrrrrrrrrrrrr,,,,,,,,,,,,Check any filters and for any restrictions,,,,,,,,,,,Rebuild or new ONLY you can decide... 

John T Live in the RV from Avon Park Florida

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ms60/Clay these water pumps will not prime when all faucets are closed. To me, it sounds like your pump still had some water in the pump-head, which froze and created a leak.

 

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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Finished up the inspection and return to service. Sorry no photos, I did think about them, but usually after I'd already done what I could'a, would'a, should'a. I'm not a pro utuber that wakes up, turns on the camera, makes sure it's got the right position and then pretends to sleep and wake up to the camera. 

Anyway. Found nothing wrong except some awful plumbing. Why does it seem like there are 40 connections in my little Water/electrical bay? AND once again I ask why is the water and electric in the same location????

When I finally decide to build the solar, batteries, inverters and such One of the systems is being moved to a whole new area. Not sure which one just yet, but it will happen. I think about doing it every time I work on something, but decide if I'm going to do it I only want to do it once. 

I put in another shut off that is positive. I don't know why it's there, because it does not seem to work at all, but what looks like a shut off does nothing. The added one works and keeps "City" pressure off the output side of the pump. I also put a pump shut off switch in the bay and removed a "Wire Nut and Tape" connection. 

The pump is 90% more quiet in the bay and I may not even hear it at all inside. Not sure what I did to make it more quiet, but I'm happy. 

 

Rod

 

PS, thanks for the comments and suggestions. 

 

rl

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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