Jump to content

POR-15 Magic


VegasFlyer

Recommended Posts

As we near the completion of the Bed Build, we needed to spruce up the truck and get it prepped for the bed mounts.

After taking off the commercial hitch, we found some corrosion on the mounting rails, as well as some superficial rust along the frame rails.  Fortunately we had already checked the rust situation during the pre-purchase inspection and did not have any big surprises as the build progressed.

Here are a few pictures which were taken prior to any of the rust prep.

 

WTXZEil.jpg

 

jseQUUV.jpg

 

TJ7SZZl.jpg

 

GdtgbAQ.jpg

 

 

After deliberating on a lot of different methods, we opted to use POR-15 which is a specialized coating designed to be applied directly onto a bare or rusted surface.

The process is, as follows:

STEP ONE -  Remove Loose Rust

After prepping the truck by removing the shocks and air springs, we cut off all of the wire ties that hold the air lines and various wire bundles running along the frame, to get access to all of the metal frame.  We then went over all rusted areas of the frame and crossmembers with a cup type wire brush mounted on a small grinder to get rid of all loose rust, scale and paint.  It isn’t necessary to remove all the rust to bare metal, you only  need  to remove the looser rust and paint.  A small die grinder works good for tight spots.

STEP TWO -  Clean and Degrease

This involves going over the area with a pressure washer and then applying a special Marine Cleaner / Degreaser made by POR.  Although it sounds like basic cleaning, the solution does have acid and other chemicals that you won’t want to get on you, your clothes or painted surfaces.  We applied it with a spray bottle, diluted with water in a five to one ratio.  We kept the surface wet with solution for 30 minutes and then thoroughly rinsed with fresh water.

 

Here are some photos after rust removal and cleaning / degreaser process:

 

YzlpCeK.jpg

 

3UJjZI4.jpg

 

hKvY8d9.jpg

 

STEP THREE  - Metal Prep

 

This stage is similar to the cleaner / degreaser except the metal prep is applied straight out of the bottle.  We applied the solution with a spray bottle over the entire frame and kept it wet for 30 minutes before rinsing with fresh water.  The solution chemically treats the rust, etches bare metal and chemically etches any existing paint or coating to promote adhesion of the POR-15 coating.  The process does leave a gray tint over the various surfaces.

Here are some photos after Metal Prep:

 

Hpz2BEg.jpg

 

OZhJPAX.jpg

 

STEP FOUR  -  Make it Soooooooo Black

As we read the directions and general precautions, we could not help be impressed with the list of things that WILL NOT remove POR-15 from SKIN.  Although the stuff has an amazing reputation for protecting whatever it is applied to, it is not very good to get on you or to breathe in if you spray it on. To safeguard all of those concerns, we donned Tyvek coveralls and boots, as well as General safety equipment you would want for applying any caustic substance, ie gloves, goggles, respirator.

The material is actually very thin right of the can and is very self leveling with virtually no brush marks on the finished surface.  The directions call for two light coats to be applied about two or three hours apart.  We applied it with brushes and it was quite an easy job once all the preparation and precautions were taken.

Here are some photos of the finished project:

 

ctkdSMd.jpg

 

Ki2zoAi.jpg

 

zTRGmnJ.jpg

 

I2V92sC.jpg

 

 

In the photos, the color appears to be glossy black, as the paint dried it did shift to a more semi gloss color.

Overall we are quite happy with how it turned out.  If the final product would have been an area that is normally exposed or seen, we could have easily filled in the areas of surface pitting prior to applying the coating.

 

As we are nearly finished with the bed build, we have changed our paint plans on the bed to use POR-15 over the entire bed.  We will cover more there in the separate Update of Bed Build thread.

 

John

Southern Nevada

2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift

2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 

2017 Can-Am Maverick X3-RS

 

ALAKAZARCACODEFLGAHIIDILINIAKSKYLAMAMNMS
event.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, what a transformation.  Guess  I will have to order some POR 15. Auto restorers swear by it but I just haven't gotten around to using it.  Thanks for the great write-up and pictures.  I can't wait to see your bed when it is installed.      Charlie

Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used some on the exposed areas of my frame and it seems to degrade a bit if exposed to a lot of sun. Maybe fade is a better word. One day I will reapply and then cover with the appropriate bed. 

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ultraviolet light kills this type of paint(single pot epoxy) ,first it dulls then its toast .Cover it asap.

Great stuff though I used it on my frame ,dont get it on you, there are web sites dedicated to getting off your skin.

hint; not possible unless you are a snake.:o

2005 volvo 670 freedomline singled
Newmar Torrey Pine 34rsks
woot woot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't really degrade, it just turns a grayish color when exposed.  It is still protecting your steel.

So John, you're not talking about using it on the top of your bed, but underneath?  If you use it on top, it can be painted whatever color you want, but if left exposed, it will gray out.  Maybe they have changed to formula?

Rocky & Sheri Rhoades
'01 Volvo 770
2016 DRV Mobile Suites, Houston
HERO Makers Ministry

 

30495168531_143d8fb8d6_m.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

POR-15 will tell you in the literature it is not UV resistant, and as Rocky said the greying is cosmetic only. The catch is if you do need to put another coating on it for cosmetic purposes the POR-15 has to be sanded lightly, a huge if not impossible job on a truck frame. I think their literature says you can recoat with a non POR-15 product to avoid the sanding within a short period of time(3-5 hours), but most people don't plan on that. 

I have used it extensively on a 1956 Studebaker restoration, now going on 10 years. And the only areas to have any grey are directly exposed to sunlight, under the hood for example it is still a gloss black, and hard as heck. Just to scrape it to make an electrical ground takes a small grinder. No way would I ever try to remove the stuff. 

Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit
2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover
2008 Work and Play 34FK
Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, HERO Maker said:

It doesn't really degrade, it just turns a grayish color when exposed.  It is still protecting your steel.

So John, you're not talking about using it on the top of your bed, but underneath?  If you use it on top, it can be painted whatever color you want, but if left exposed, it will gray out.  Maybe they have changed to formula?

Rocky,

The current plan is to coat EVERYTHING with POR-15 and topcoat whatever normally sees the light of day.

 

John

Southern Nevada

2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift

2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 

2017 Can-Am Maverick X3-RS

 

ALAKAZARCACODEFLGAHIIDILINIAKSKYLAMAMNMS
event.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Painting the fresh bare metal with POR is not optimal.    I think you will find an etching primer a better substrait.     POR and other paint over rust type coating use the iron oxide to form a barrier to further corrosion, they don't hold on smooth metal as well as bare metal primer.   

An etching primer actually etches into the bare metal and forms a surface that promotes paint adhesion.     With your fresh body work a scotchbrite pad will be enough to prep the body for primer.   Then I would use a surfacer,sealer and, top coat.  

 

Steve 

2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift

1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta

1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project

 catdiesellogo.jpg.e96e571c41096ef39b447f78b9c2027c.jpg Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine.   

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RVers Online University

mywaggle.com

campgroundviews.com

RV Destinations

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...