Lippert Level Up & Tire Changing

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

I want to do so PM on the wheels, brakes, and bearings on this new 5th wheel.  Not saying I don't trust the factory technician that installed the components, but I don't trust the guy that had to build and install 40 axles before he could go home.

So DRV uses the Lippert 6 pt Level up system.   We are already level but I want to raise the RV so the tires are off the ground.  What combo of buttons do I push?   Lippert manual says to have a "Qualified" person come and change a tire..... I think I is "Qualified" to do that..... 

So do I use the manual override and extend the rear jacks until it's in the air?  Or do I have to do a Left - Right - Left alternating lift?  Or does it matter?

 

[Chad Heiser]

It depends on if you want to get all the tires off the ground at once (both sides) or just one side at a time.  I played around with this while the trailer was in my shop, so I wouldn't have to figure it out on the side of the road.  

If you want all the tires of the ground at once, hit manual and then hit rear to lift the rear of the trailer to the desired height.  

If you just want one side or the other, then (with all the jacks on the ground for stability) hit manual and then left or right to raise the side you want.  

I would put the slides in before doing any of this so you don't tweak anything.

I was able to get my tires off the grading easily using either procedure. 

[Bobi and Dick McKee]

I do all my work myself.  I raise the rear legs, then lower them so they are all planted, but the rig is not necessarily level.  I then raise the side I want to work on and remove one wheel at a time, check the brakes, lube the pins and use the easy lube to pump in new grease until it comes out the front of the hub.

[Ronbo]

Turn on the system. Hit up arrow twice. Display should read manual. Hit enter. Hit left or right to raise the appropriate side. System will turn off while doing your work. Repeat the above but after hitting enter, hot retract and retract the raised side until the left to right is zero. Now hit retract again to turn it off and push the button to raise the other side. When finished repeat again all the way through retract. No need to hit auto level, it will lower the front down and re level. You can do the same with manual and it will give you practice in case it doesn't want to level sometime. Now is also a good time to put a level on your floor and reset your level up. Another note, find the large contractor. It will be by your pump motor. Familiarize yourself with it. If you are ever on a severely i level spot and can't extend your front gear enough to level, it may not allow you to retract saying "out of level". Reverse the wires on the spade connectors for the contractor. Go to the control and enter manual mode. Now push extend for the front and they will retract. Don't forget to put the wires in the proper place. 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Thanks!

 

[57becky]

I just completed my annual bearing repack and brake inspection, along with lubing the wet bolts.  Prior to lifting the rig with the hydraulic jacks, I loosened all the lug nuts, and then used the system in manual mode to raise the wheels off the ground.  Once I was done, with the lug nuts firmly tight by hand, I then lowered the trailer back down, and torqued the lug nuts.  I have done this every year since we have had the rig, in addition to doing tire replacements as needed.  The system is great for this, even though their lawyers will say not to, but they don't even know which end of a lug wrench to hold.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Well, the axle PM is complete.  I wish whoever had assembled the Kodiak brake calipers had greased the slide pins.... 

MorRyde might want to add a little more grease as well.  1 axle-2 spindles, while not dry, didn't have enough grease in the bearings to wet a paper towel.  They had grease, but you could handle them without getting your hands messy....

So 3 new sets (6 inside/outside) of brake pads, 12 caliper pins greased, 6 bearing sets repacked, 6 seals, all on a new RV that has less than 3000 miles.....

[I'mdonewiththis forum]

Just one concern I have. PLEASE don't rely on hydraulics to hold it up while you are under there........