57becky

I believe your GVWR is not correct with the 'W' as Wheel. It is really Gross Combined Weight Rating.

They issue new plates every five years. We've had two different plates so far, and will get our third different plates, too, when we do our registration this year. I just got the plates logged into my memory and here we go again, having to remember new ones.😉

This article explains nuisance GFCI tripping due to multiple small leakages adding together into the one GFCI outlet. https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-what-is-a-gfci-nuisance-trip/

We've been fulltime for almost eleven years and use Americas Mailbox in Box Elder and have never had any issues with our mail being delivered promptly, regardless of where we are having it sent to us, and it is always sent with USPS.

Any of these so called extended warranties are really service contracts, and service is questionable. Usually, all they do is delay getting you back on the road because of all the games they play trying to keep you from getting repaired so they don't have to pay. Like has been said, create your own emergency repair account and you will be much happier being able to control repairs.

We've been in locations quite often with poor water pressure and just turn on the pump when needed. Every coupe days I will go out and refill the fresh water tank when we are long term in those situations. That's where the RV is really nice, also when water is turned off for whatever reason.

I was so glad the 110/220 was finally addressed in this thread. I'm a retired utility lineman and this has always been a problem. Also, talking about old voltages, my Dad, prior to WWII, owned a printing shop in NYC, and the voltage back then was DC, and the utility was converting over to AC voltage, came through, assessed what and how many motors needed to be converted, and as the sections of the city were converted, the utility had the motors replaced and any other conversion work was undertaken at the upgrade. He said it was quite a job that was done to convert it all over.

This is another excellent manual: https://www.amazon.com/Woodalls-Owners-Handbook-Yourself-Maintenance/dp/076275141X/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=CjwKCAiAy_CcBhBeEiwAcoMRHCQcPAxCdbYZ6_ekUyeNwj9xNtNqtGcx_ixuVIwiDHXxjeTraHPN8hoC79IQAvD_BwE&hvadid=241954091720&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1013962&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11435255382554043328&hvtargid=kwd-21496661&hydadcr=24659_10400695&keywords=rv+repair+manual&qid=1671230047&sr=8-3

The DEF system consists of the DEF injection and the SCR converter, along with sensors before and after the SCR converter. The DEF system removes nitrogen oxides from the exhaust. The diesel particulate filter (DPF) consists of the filter/soot collector along with usually another diesel injector that adds fuel to the filter to burn off the collected soot, which is what is called the regen cycle. The DEF system does not have a regen cycle.

The buzzing or chatter will be caused by low voltage due to a bad connection or bad battery(ies). The instructions on the Levelup system says the batteries must be in good shape and the converter alone will not have enough power to operate the system. It will help if you tighten all the connections to the pump motor and reversing switch and even connections all the way to the battery, as any loose connection will be a problem. These systems also have an auto reset breaker that over time can get weak and will not be able to provide full power to the pump motor, and on your year model, the breaker should be upgraded to an 80 amp breaker instead of the 40 or 50 amp breaker that was installed in your rig. I upgraded our breaker years ago and have had no issues since.

After having a hip replaced years ago, I used a piece of the foam wedge that they strap to your legs to hold them in position, and cut an oversized cylinder from the foam, then cut a slit half way through the foam. After connecting the water hose, I just push the foam around the hose and into the hole where the water hose is. Has worked great, but after using the foam plug for six or seven years, it has gotten a bit worn. To solve that problem, I went ahead and had the other hip replaced last October, so now have a new piece of foam to make a new plug from.

A couple years ago, I needed to replace my factory TPMS valve stem/sensors on my Chevy truck, and even though I wasn't installing external sensors, I wanted the metal stems. Discount tire installed the new sensor/stems and they have been great, and compatible with the truck TPMS system. Maybe replace the stem/sensors so they still work with the toad and will allow you to use the external TST sensors. Discount used these, even though they didn't get them from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/VDO-SE10001HP-REDI-Sensor-314-9-Sensor/dp/B00CBQFE8E

PEX is rated 160 PSI at room temperature, and I'm sure the fittings should be that also. The bigger issue is the plumbing fixtures. Also, if you use any type of water filter ahead of the RV, they are rated sometimes at 60 PSI, and a water hose is probably not any better, so that's why the regulator should always be the first thing connected at the hose faucet. https://plasticpipe.org/BuildingConstruction/BuildingConstruction/PEX.aspx

This is the link to the Lippert technical document that deals with the stiction problem: https://support.lci1.com/documents/ti-191-adding-anti-stiction-fluid-to-hydraulic-systems

You might check the auto reset breaker on the line from the batteries to the pump motor. On the newer rigs that use #4 strand copper leads, Lippert recommends an 80 amp auto reset breaker as the amp draw from the pump motor can exceed 70 amps. https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Exterior/Stabs_n_Leveling/Lippert/80 amp breaker lippert0058.pdf

That wrench is electrically insulated from end to end, no metal in the middle. I used insulated tools on the job as a lineman when working on lower voltages,but when rubber gloving voltages at 12K and 21K volts, we used our regular tools and plenty of rubber blankets and hose to protect ourselves. I purchased this wrench a few years ago to work on battery connections in the trailer as well as an electric golf cart, and it works well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L8C1W9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of these will save a lot of injuries when working on batteries. It may seem expensive, but in the end it's good insurance. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-KT223X4-INS-Linemans-Insulating/dp/B006FXPYK2/ref=pd_sbs_6/146-5548872-2326566?pd_rd_w=fo8NY&pf_rd_p=0f56f70f-21e6-4d11-bb4a-bcdb928a3c5a&pf_rd_r=AKSMXB3AMNSG8W65ZA0P&pd_rd_r=551203b8-eabb-4972-b7c7-3554d83a5e30&pd_rd_wg=o5xCI&pd_rd_i=B006FXPYK2&psc=1

When some find out that dry ice is frozen CO2, there will be big trouble, and they will want to ban dry ice.

This is from the Eternabond site: EternaPrime® is an adhesive and surface conditioner intended to aid adhesion of EternaBond® MicroSealant tapes, or other non- MicroSealant tapes such as butyl tapes and other self adhesive seaming tapes. EternaPrime® is also an excellent primer for use with self-adhered modified bitumen membranes. Use EternaPrime® when surfaces to be bonded are very dirty (oxidized and cannot be easily cleaned), or dusty (like on a tar and gravel roof). EternaPrime® will prepare the surface by coalescing all loose particles into a solid platform for the EternaBond® tape to adhere to. EternaPrime® allows EternaBond® MicroSealant tapes to be installed in temperatures as low as -20°F (-29°C). EternaPrime® also prepares most contaminated surfaces for tape application. I don't think any overspray on the roofing material will hurt anything.

When we replaced our microwave last year, had it delivered from BestBuy, and the only modification needed was to change the vent diverter from pointing up to pointing out the back. Otherwise, the installation was fairly straight forward.

Last year in Sun City, AZ, we were paying $1.99 a gallon for propane. We started out this past winter season at $2.09 a gallon, and then after the freeze in Texas, the price slowly crept up to $2.69 a gallon, which is still really reasonable compared to prices in 2013 at over $4.00 a gallon and getting close to $5.00 a gallon that we saw in Missouri that winter.

The really nice way to see the canyon is to park your RV at the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park, get on the train in the morning to the canyon, several hours to take it all in and have lunch, then the train ride back, and then hook up and head out the next day. We've done this several times and with kids and grandkids makes it even better. https://www.thetrain.com/

The park we are in has quite a few park models in it and a large number have been vacated by people heading north, and no one leaves an A/C running while gone. There is no humidity problem here, actually a lack of humidity is the norm. We are several days away from leaving and right now, the humidity outside is 7%, but has been closer to 4% earlier today. Staying in an RV can be done, but I think the question was regarding a conventional home.

The easiest answer to the original question is, when you get up in the middle of the night to use the restroom, and the light won't turn on and the water pump doesn't work to flush the toilet.