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Advice on What to do when you are set up long term?


coachmac9

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We are going to be set up for 9 months while I am putting in my last hitch in the public school system and my wife spoils a new grandchild. My question is what are some suggestions on what we need to do so that we can be ready to roll in June...if I can make it that long without going stir crazy!!!! Things like putting the tires on some type of surface like wood ( they are on the ground now), start the engine every so often ect ect. anybody got a "to do" list so the coach and mechanical parts will still work when I am ready to go. I know letting anything mechanical set up can't be good for it so I am trying to be pro-active. Thanks in advance!

 

On edit...we will be living in it full time.




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I might recommend not putting roots down! I would suggest to keep her rolling. Go on week end trips to the local State Parks. Go to the next town and spend the night on a Wal-Mart parking lot. Head down the HY and spend a night or two in a tuck stop or rest area. This can keep your rig in shape and show you things you need to work on before you actually leave out on your big adventure.

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Guessing you have a motorhome.

 

Don't just start the engine and run it, if you start it drive it at least until it reaches operating temp. Keep the fuel tank full and add some stabilizer to gas or conditioner/algaecide to diesel.

 

Exercise is good for the whole rig, from the engine to the tires so weekend getaways are a really good idea, pick a spot 50 miles away and go for the day or the weekend. Run the heater, AC, wipers and anything else on your trip, no fun finding that the AC compressor froze up or your wipers don't wipe due to lack of use as you head out for your summer travels. Top up the tank on your way home and if you used a lot of fuel add more fuel treatment.

 

I like putting the tires on something like old plastic cutting boards, but wood is better than nothing although it stays damp too long for my tastes.

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You can also schedule any service visits during that time as another reason to move. We ran our generator and A/C on those trips to exercise them. Try to go somewhere at least once a month--it helps keep the tires round. :)

 

Linda Sand

Blog: http://sandcastle.sandsys.org/

Former Rigs: Liesure Travel van, Winnebago View 24H, Winnebago Journey 34Y, Sportsmobile Sprinter conversion van

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When I had my rig in storage before hitting the road full time I took a weekend trip once a month ...if not I took it for a 30-45 minute "love ride". That kept it working, and also helped me stay accustomed to handling it. I think the longest it sat w/o moving was 6 weeks. And always try to have a full tank of fuel when you return to the long-term parking spot. That helps prevent water condensation in the fuel.

 

You can get horse stall mats at Tractor Supply and such places. They are made from recycled rubber, and one side has a ribbed surface to help the water run off. I cut them to desired side with a tile knife, working on it a little at a time until it cuts through. I use the pieces under my rv tires, and also under the tires of two classic cars that sit on concrete for a month of more at a time. One doesn't have ac so it normally sits 3 months or so through the summer ... I do not start it unless I am going to drive it. A battery trickle charger is likely the only attention it gets during that time.

Paul (KE5LXU), former fulltimer, now sometimer...

'03 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40E

'05 Honda Odyssey

Escapees, FMCA, WIT, SMART

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Cutting boards under the tires and use a diesel treatment in the fuel tank, filling as full as possible before you park it. I'd be quite surprised if you do not sit for a month or longer at times so plan for that long at least. If you do start it, drive it for at least 20 minutes to fully warm things up.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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Keep in mind that a great many motorhomes, both gas and diesel, sit for 7-9 months a year, particularly in the north country where moving them regularly in the winter is not practical. Owner's manuals may have some good information on long term storage recommendations.

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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Truck mud flaps sound like a great idea, more durable than cutting boards and easy to cut to the size you need, the stall mats don't sound bad either.

First rule of computer consulting:

Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day.

Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime.

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I too like the idea of stall mats. Might be more durable than cutting boards, particularly for use on a gravel pad.

 

In our 12 years on the road, we often stayed in one RV volunteer position for anywhere from 1 month to as long as 4 months. When researching the best way to deal with such situations I called the chassis hot-line for advice. Our rig was gasoline powered, but I suspect that the advice would be pretty much the same for diesel power. What the Ford support people said was this: The most damaging thing that is done to most RV engines is the "dry start" which they define as starting an engine which has sat for long enough for all of the oil to have drained down to the pan/sump. They considered that to be 2 weeks or longer. The suggest that if you do not have a prelube pump system installed on the engine, it is better to not start at all while it is in storage. Make sure that it has clean oil in it when parked and then do not start at all until near the time for travel, or if you do start, drive for at least 20 minutes in order to get both the engine oil and the transmission fluid up to operating temperature and to so drive off any collected condensation. To start it for a shorter time will tend to increase the condensation problem by warming some, but not enough and the frequent dry starts will put extra wear on the engine. They also said to park with treated fuel and a full tank. Our engine was gasoline, but the Ford folks said that the engine recommendations were pretty much the same for their engines, whether gasoline or diesel. I tend to think that the dry start issue would apply to any engine, but my only experience was with a Ford, gasoline powered, V10.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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I did have a pre-lube pump on my IH MDT and it did do a decent job of lubing the bearings after a long sit, also was set to provide continuing oil flow to the turbo on shutdown. What it didn't do well is get oil to the bottom of the pistons and rings so they were still dry when I'd go to start it.

 

Got tired of the aggravations with the lube pump and took it off, instead just added a weekly drive in the truck instead of always using our car. Should just have done that to start with and saved a few hundred bucks.

First rule of computer consulting:

Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day.

Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime.

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