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Pin Height For Trailer


alan0043

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Hi Everyone,

 

I hope I am asking this question the correct way. How do you know when you have the correct pin height set on your trailer for your truck ? The truck does have a trailer Saver hitch. I have the correct amount of air in the hitch because I can just see the white line on the hitch as the manual describes. Is there a line on the trailer that should be parallel with the ground ? I believe the nose of the trailer is down. How do I set up the trailer pin ? Is there any videos or written info I should look at ?

 

All info is welcomed,

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Your pin height is normally about 47" to the bottom of the plate. If you need to adjust your pin height normally there are some adjusting holes where the pin box bolts to the trailer. Some hitches are also adjustable. If you park on relatively level ground you and you stand back to look at the truck and trailer you should be able to see if it is close to level. Another way to adjust it is to park where level and use an actual level to go from your hitch plate to the back and while holding the level level measure to the ground. Level your trailer and measure the plate to ground. Sometimes it takes a time or two to get every thing set right.

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Hi Everyone,

 

Thank you for some answers. I will see how level the ground is and compare how level the trailer is. I thought that the trailer needed to be as level as possible so the front axle on the trailer is not doing all the work. I have only pulled the trailer twice. I am still doing a lot of learning. If there is any more ideas or if there is video, please post.

 

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Al, you're right. You want the trailer to be very level for while your pulling it down the road. Even weight on each axle is the goal. But you will need to have individual tires weighed (which we should all have done) in order to know the distribution of your weight. If you are nose down, you are putting more stress on the front axle. Nose high - rear axle. So find that piece of flat level base and step to the side away from your rig and look at the relationship to the trailer and your wheels. That should be fairly flat. Also, your should look good and level hitched up to your truck. This will work for closeness. You can than go to some scales and take a look there.

Rocky & Sheri Rhoades
'01 Volvo 770
2016 DRV Mobile Suites, Houston
HERO Makers Ministry

 

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I bought a laser level, placed it on chassis at wheels. Shot a line to pin area. Measured up and added distance at chassis where level was. Instant pin height for hitch. If under-coverings get in the way place an object, I used a can, on ground at axles (level it, the can) and shot line. Add height of can. You will find lots of use for this level.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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I thought there was enough play in the suspension to offset a degree of high or low difference? Individual wheel weigh would only work if trailer was perfectly loaded, tell me how many trailers are. I have a notion that this is well overthought. What happens if to have your trailer perfectly level when hitched and you only have 4 inches of clearance between trailer overhang and truck bed? I'll keep my 7 inches.

John

2017 F350 King Ranch DRW 6.7 4.10 B&W hitch

2017 DRV MS 36RSSB3

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What happens if to have your trailer perfectly level when hitched and you only have 4 inches of clearance between trailer overhang and truck bed? I'll keep my 7 inches.

In that situation you need to adjust the height of the trailer by either putting the axles under the springs or with blocking between the frame and suspension. By towing with the nose high or low you are putting a lot more weight on one axle leading to premature tire, suspension, or axle failure.

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if you weigh the trailer by each tire and find your over weight on one side, what would you do, I mean you just cant move your refer to the other side of the trailer, our kitchen is on one slide out, and we have a couch and chair on the other slide out, without being a genius I could tell you I would be heaver on the kitchen side, so now we know the problem, what would be the solution ?

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if you weigh the trailer by each tire and find your over weight on one side, what would you do, I mean you just cant move your refer to the other side of the trailer, our kitchen is on one slide out, and we have a couch and chair on the other slide out, without being a genius I could tell you I would be heaver on the kitchen side, so now we know the problem, what would be the solution ?

We had 1000 lbs more on the street side than the curb side. Three sides, refrigerator. Not much you can do about that.

 

But you adjust your tire pressure for the heaviest wheel, not the axle weight.

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if you weigh the trailer by each tire and find your over weight on one side, what would you do, I mean you just cant move your refer to the other side of the trailer, our kitchen is on one slide out, and we have a couch and chair on the other slide out, without being a genius I could tell you I would be heaver on the kitchen side, so now we know the problem, what would be the solution ?

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Just about every trailer that has slides probably has this "side to side" weight issue to some extent.

What is being said on the "level" issue is it is more advantages to the trailers running gear to have the axle weights "leveled out" front to rear and your tire pressures set to the heaviest weighted tire position.

Example: My Ford F-350 requires a pin height of 47 inches on my 5er to give me the 6 inches of height clearance above the truck's bed rails. This pin height makes my trailer tow "nose high" which puts more weight on my rear axle of my tandem axle trailer. I'm still within my axle weight rating but very close to maxing it out. Not where I would like it to be. My HDT pin height for this same trailer is 44 inches and the trailer appears to be "nose low" when viewing the trail and truck from the side.

With the 44 inch Pin height axle weights are now almost equal front to rear.

My trailer is also more than 500 lbs heavier on one side due to my slideouts. I set all of my tire pressures as required to reflect the "heavier" side. I have been fortunate in having my trailer and tow vehicles weighted by tire position and that is important info to have.

..... your mileage, levels and weights may vary!

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Our Summit's pin plate was 50 inches high at level, and that was with the MorRyde pin box as low as possible. We also had about 2,000 pounds more weight on the front trailer axle than on the back one (three axles). Solution: Henry Szmyt modified the pin box by welding on plates and drilling new holes. Result: the pin plate is now at 47 inches, our ET Junior hitch remains intact and happy, and the three axles are all carry within 200 pounds of the same weight.

2001 Volvo 610 HDT with Smart Car bed and ET Junior hitch

2007 New Horizons Summit 38

2013 Smart for Two

2012 Easy Racer Tour Easy recumbent bicycle

 

"There is no path. Paths are made by walking." – Spanish poet Antonio Machado

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Here's a link to what Henry did with our pin box:

 

http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=122297

2001 Volvo 610 HDT with Smart Car bed and ET Junior hitch

2007 New Horizons Summit 38

2013 Smart for Two

2012 Easy Racer Tour Easy recumbent bicycle

 

"There is no path. Paths are made by walking." – Spanish poet Antonio Machado

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