SpaceNorman Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Last year's trip often took us to parks that were "electric only" sites. As a result we've gotten in the habit of keeping our fresh water tank filled. However, recently we've been staying in parks with full hookups. With the tank valve set to itts "city water" setting - we've found the water pressure is often too weak for our liking. However, simply turning on the coach's water pump seems to fix that problem. This leads me to my question - does simply turning on the water pump force the system to draw from the fresh water tank? ...or does it add pressure to the city water source? It seems like my fresh tank draws down - even when the tank selector is set to the "city water" selection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 An RV water pump will operate based upon a pressure switch. In most cases they turn on at about 40# and off about 45#. If the city water pressure falls below the pump pressure point the pump will turn on and draw water from the tank, Since it is putting out more pressure than the city supply, the water has to come from the tank. You might get a little water from the city system just as the pump starts, but most will come from the tank since the higher pressure supply is going to prevail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theeyres Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 You may want to check the filters on your city fill side. I have hardly ever encountered a city water system that had less pressure than the 40# or 45# that the pump delivers. Usually it's closer to 60-90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Another thing you may want to look at is the pressure regulator that you are using.They are not all designed the same way as some of them have a larger diameter passage than others. If you are using a very cheap pressure regulator it will restrict the water flow in volume as well as pressure. While the use of a pressure regulator is important, the diameter of the water passage is important in order to maintain volume at regulated pressure. In general, the higher priced regulators will supply more water but if you can find the listing for the opening diameter, you want the largest one available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirakawa Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 You may want to check the filters on your city fill side. I have hardly ever encountered a city water system that had less pressure than the 40# or 45# that the pump delivers. Usually it's closer to 60-90. That has not been my experience. Many small towns use water towers for their line pressure. A typical water tower peaks out at around 130' height, which would produce about 56 psi maximum. That would be the pressure at the base of the tower, there is pressure loss enroute to your location. Of course, in hilly areas the tower may be at the top of the hill. However, there are many, many campgrounds and RV parks in level terrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 That has not been my experience. Many small towns use water towers for their line pressure. There are also many RV parks that are served by a private well and that too can very, seldom more than 45# and very possible to be less. The lowest water pressure that I can recall was at 20 psi, and the highest was in San Antonio at a park that sometimes saw as high as 125 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Your water pump cannot increase pressure without using tank water to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmac9 Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 You may want to check the filters on your city fill side. I have hardly ever encountered a city water system that had less pressure than the 40# or 45# that the pump delivers. Usually it's closer to 60-90. Exactly what I was thinking also. Granted, we haven't been to many yet but all we have visited had higher pressure than using the water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceNorman Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 I was looking at my current connection again today - and see that there's a small brass fitting on the end of the campground spigot - which I suspect is a pressure regular. I then have my own regulator, on the end of my fill hose. So ... in essence - I've got two inline regulators affecting my incoming water supply. I'm guessing that no good can come of this - and that the interplay between the two of them is throttling the flow to some degree. I would remove the campground supplied device (since I don't know exactly what it is - or what it's regulator threshold is) - however it appears they've taken steps to prevent its removal. I think I'll try removing my regulator from the end of my fill hose and see what (if any) difference it makes. As always - thank you all for the responses. There's definitely a lot on knowledge and experience on this forum. Even if the collection of responses doesn't yield the exact answer to my particular issue - somebody's response always seems to tickle my thought process and gives me that "ah-ha!" moment which is usually just what I need to figure out my next steps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Does it look like this.....? http://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=CRsYkUFuZVoufMIqe-gOTxYDIC9Dk7fsG4MrStagCm5WPmtEECAkQCyCTsvocKBRgycaBh8ijkBmQAQOgAciZgMwDyAEHqgQmT9AqxwOCLs48Iggsuys3S9t_Lmi8fGJYrH2fN9bfbJZH9DKoiAjABQWgBibYBgKAB8j8pDyIBwGQBwKoB6a-G9gHAeASl6SmrZu9x6TVAQ&ctype=5&clui=23&ved=0ahUKEwjDsfTM2KzKAhVDKWMKHdpnC-E4FBDCPAiMAQ&ei=UFuZVsPJLsPSjAPaz62IDg&sival=AF15MEDbszq4HCSIYpNRMh6r1jNLlKCKpPjKTmN0hakH4-n1WYAjPS4Avii7A4qHswor5YOm9xkQQVvKNZHadTrHL64rC5Yvkw&sig=AOD64_1WFviSXO6ORqTDGvWxHe0HjNOo8w&adurl=http://6005.xg4ken.com/trk/v1%3Fprof%3D403%26camp%3D2617%26affcode%3Dpg495049%26kct%3Dgoogle%26kchid%3D5083383165%26cid%3D79500752528%26networkType%3Dsearch%26kdv%3Dm%26kpid%3D2d8d87bc6c1a437f880b2d6da78ef7ca%26kmc%3D103470198%26criteriaid%3Daud-155003204480:pla-159236999835%26adgroupid%3D19937472728%26campaignid%3D330849728%26locphy%3D9031250%26adpos%3D3o11%26url%3Dhttp://servedby.flashtalking.com/click/8/50147%3B1269989%3B369308%3B252%3B0/%3Fft_custom%3D403%7C495049%26ft_section%3Dplumbing_plumbing_fittings_supports_plumbing_valves_a3_other%26ft_keyword%3D%26url%3Dhttp://clickserve.dartsearch.net/link/click%3Flid%3D92700007676138627%26ds_s_kwgid%3D58700000609433211%26ds_s_inventory_feed_id%3D97700000001590866%26ds_e_product_id%3D2d8d87bc6c1a437f880b2d6da78ef7ca%26ci_customer_id%3D1001374%26ci_cse_id%3D1008%26ci_feed_id%3D1009190%26ds_e_product_country%3DUS%26ds_e_product_language%3Den%26ds_e_product_channel%3Donline%26ds_url_v%3D2%26ds_dest_url%3Dhttps://jet.com/product/detail/2d8d87bc6c1a437f880b2d6da78ef7ca%26jcmp%3Dpla:ggl:hardware_a3:plumbing_plumbing_fittings_supports_plumbing_valves_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2%26code%3DPLA15%26k_clickid%3D_kenshoo_clickid_%26abkId%3D403-495049 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Do not remove the brass device on the park faucet. That is an anti-syphon valve and in most communities, it is the law to be there. Your pressure regulator could be a problem. First off the problem isn't pressure, it is volume. Most people feel about 2 gpm is good feel for things like showers. The typical brass pressure regulator starts with 2 gpm but quickly drop to 1 gpm or less. A new regulator or even better, a Watts like regulator from RV Water Filter Store are rated over 4 gpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCClockDr Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Hopefully I can shed some light and dispel some of the fog from common misuse of relevant terms. When most folks complain of low water pressure they are actually experiencing low flow. When there is a restriction in the water supply the initial pressure will be the static system pressure sometimes in the 100-125 range. Once flow starts the restriction will limit flow and thus reduced pressure/flow downstream of the restriction. The common hose to RV "pressure" regulator is actually a flow restrictor, the RV H20 system will be subjected to full city water supply pressure when there is NO flow. Many site hose bibs are terminated with an anti-siphon gizmo that has a nasty habit of squirting the user when they close the hose bib valve. This device only is there to protect the supply system from contamination and are often mandated by local ordinance. To actually regulate the pressure within the RV, a Watts regulator or equivalent should be used at the hose bib thus protecting both the RV and the hose/s. Hope this helps to clear up our general understanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 Mark has the same thought that I am and if we are correct, then it will be a violation to remove it. It prevents back flow or siphoning of water from your hose back into the city system and most systems require use of them. Some hydrants have one built into them. The common hose to RV "pressure" regulator is actually a flow restrictor This is not true and do not make the mistake of operating without one! Even the cheap water pressure regulators are true pressure regulators and they do prevent the buildup of pressure in your RV water lines even when there is no flowing water. The reason that cheap water pressure regulators don't maintain their set pressure when in use is that the port the water passes through is too small and so acts as a restriction and pressure drops in high flow situations because the port is too small to maintain the flow and that causes pressure to drop, but they still protect your plumbing from excessively high city water pressures. The first image is of one of the cheapest of water pressure regulators and while it will tend to restrict flow, it will also protect you from the occasional city system that is excessively high. Most city systems run in the range of 50-70 psi and home plumbing is designed for pressures in that range or a bit below. RV systems are tested to 60# and usually are designed to 100# but it is risky to push the limits. I have seen city water pressures that exceed 120 psi in a few cases. It is best to use a water pressure regulator similar to the second or third image since both of those are adjustable and both have a pressure gauge so that you can monitor the pressure in your RV water lines. The other thing that can cause excessive water pressure in your RV is your water heater, if there is no bubble in the top of the tank. If you have no bubble in the water heater and do not have an accumulator in the system, heating a water heater from cold can cause an alarming increase in pressure. But that is way off of the subject of the original post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 In Kirks picture above, you can see a white piece in the middle of the outlet. In my experience in working in RV Parks/Campgrounds with these anti back flow devices, I have helped many guests solve their water flow problems by insuring the screen that many hoses or regulators have in them is pointed into the hose so as not to push against the white piece in the anti back flow valve. With the screen pointing out it can cause the valve to cut off or greatly reduce the flow when pushing on the white piece in the anti back flow valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceNorman Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Thank you for all the responses! Everybody pointed out that the "device" on the campground spigot was a "backflow preventer" were right on the money. I did check the filters - but didn't see anything there. I think my next step will be to check into a better water pressure regulator. The unit that came attached to the water fill hose of my coach is a simple "inline" deal with no gauge and/or adjustment mechanism. I can find nothing on the device that says what the incoming pressure is limited to. In the meantime - if/when our pressure/flow in the coach is low - turning on the water pump isn't a big deal (other than wear and tear on the pump itself). It simply means that I need to flip the tank fill toggle - and let the tank fill every 3-4 days. It's not much (if any) of an inconvenience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRum Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Before you run out and buy another pressure regulator try hooking up the city water without it and see if the problem goes away... If it doesn't then it's not the regulator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Your City Water input had a check valve that sometimes gets clog up. Check that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc2 Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Our city water hookup, on all previously owned rv's, also had a screened rubber washer similar to those found in washing machine hose connections. They can get plugged up with minute sediment particles and calcium/lime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCClockDr Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 We ditched the screened washer and installed an "O" ring. We filter all our city water so the screen was worse than redundant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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