rickeieio Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Okay, how is the top of the cab air bag attached on a Volvo? the bag has a stud protruding from the top, and it would appear that the whole bag turns up into a weld-nut. Is this correct? I spent a lot of time this morning looking for the answer in the Resource Guide, with no success. Found a video of Gregg Shields working on Jack's truck, and he showed the bags ready to install, and then the finished job. Editted out the part i need. I'm replacing the bags, shocks, leveling valve, and cross member. Today I used the plasma cutter to make a window in my bulkhead on the bed. Crawling under the truck is just a pain for an old fat guy. Nothing's going easy on this project. When I tried to fire up the plasma cutter, I had an air leak. One of the lines inside the machine had split. Lost an hour tearing it apart and figuring how to repair it without waiting a week for parts. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Yep that's how it's attached on mine with the "clip" and air line connector holding the bottom of the bag in place. I found if you "over" inflate the cab airbags and slip a 2x4 in between the cab " bump stops" and release the air you then have some room to work out the old air bag. I was replacing the bags so I was able to use a large pair of slip joint pliers to grab and turn the air bag out. On some of the earlier Gen 2 trucks there is also a steel plate between the bag and the attachment point. This plate helps to keep the top of the bag from rubbing on the bottom of the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 . Editted out the part i need. I suspect the edited part was all swearing. I paid to have someone do mine before the bed was built and I heard it was not an easy job. Nigel 2006 Volvo VNL 430, 2006 smart cabrio cdi, 2000 Triple E Topaz 30' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Yep that's how it's attached on mine with the "clip" and air line connector holding the bottom of the bag in place. I found if you "over" inflate the cab airbags and slip a 2x4 in between the cab " bump stops" and release the air you then have some room to work out the old air bag. I was replacing the bags so I was able to use a large pair of slip joint pliers to grab and turn the air bag out. On some of the earlier Gen 2 trucks there is also a steel plate between the bag and the attachment point. This plate helps to keep the top of the bag from rubbing on the bottom of the cab. Thanks. Looking at the area where the bag mounts, it seems the only reasonable method. Since I'm replacing the cross member too, jacking was a nuisance. I need new bump stops too. The further I dig, the uglier it gets. I suspect the edited part was all swearing. I paid to have someone do mine before the bed was built and I heard it was not an easy job. Nigel I never saw mention of bag replacement prior to a bed build, until after my bed was done. I may not replace my "window" in the bulkhead, as it will be covered by a toolbox. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 My advice is to lift the cab with a jack and cut the old air bag away to make the slipjoint pliers work better at getting a grip on the metal part. I broke the weld on the internal nut so that I had to cut off the stud. You can either cut a hole in the floor [ I did ] or just tack the nut to a stiff wire or welding rod for re-installing. Not a bad job when you get into it. Also open the hood to make lifting the cab easier. 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dollytrolley Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Rick, I wish I could help, but the Freightshaker is Fred Flintstone simple.........drive to the truck stop.......walk around and look at the various other Freightshakers........And.....when you find one with a better pair of airbags........just unbolt them, take them off.......bolt in your old airbags and then go into the Cafe and .......have a ......Date Shake ( ask Shallow Draft)...... Drive on........(Keep that cab......floating) 97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Dateland Between Yuma and Gila Bend. They have the best milkshakes!!!! 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Thanks guys. I'm working on it again today. Thankfully, my bride isn't afraid to crawl under the truck and crank on wrenches. Some of this would be near impossible for one person. Only two bolts remaining in the cross member, but the air bags are still attached at the top, soaking in Kroil. I have a list of hardware to pick up tomorrow to complete this task. It pained me to slice the bags in two. They had obviously been replaced by the previous owner, but if I'm changing the cross member, I'm not gonna skimp on the small stuff. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Cut those bags and put a pipe wrench on them. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdonlybob Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 When you raise the back of the cab, be sure to open your hood first.. Been there done that on my 610 Volvo.... Cheers, Bob 1989 Safari Serengeti 34'Towing a 1952 M38A1 Military Willys Past HDT owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 So how did it turn out....? Any chance you have a list of the part numbers you used for the various replacement parts? Where you purchased the parts? Also year and model oh the truck. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Sorry for the lack of update. I did cut the bags off, and used a chain wrench to remove them, after a good soaking with Kroil the day before. No, I didn't save the part numbers. I replaced everything between the truck frame and the bottom of the cab except the horizontal shocks and a hand full of hardware. All new lines too. Being the fiscally sensitive type (cheap), I stripped the old leveling valve of fittings and put them in my spare parts box. I did replace the o-rings in the DOT fittings though. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 When you raise the back of the cab, be sure to open your hood first.. Been there done that on my 610 Volvo.... Cheers, Bob That's a really good pointer, wish I had thought of it before doing mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Is that the same cross-member from your Alaska trip? I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Is that the same cross-member from your Alaska trip? Yes, I ordered (almost) all the parts as soon as we got back (8/2014) and have been walking around them in my shop ever since. I had to go back and fetch another $200 in hardware last week to button it all up. While under there, I had a good look around. It appears the previous owner had replace a good bit of the supports attached to the frame in that area. Wish he'd replaced that one too. And yes, the hood was up. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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