Jump to content

residential fridge


oediehl

Recommended Posts

Has anyone found a residential fridge the approximate size of a Norcold 1200? I could create more vertical space than the ~63" the Norcold takes up, but the fridge is in a kitchen slide that is only ~24.5" deep

Perhaps it would not be the best solution but if the fridge stuck out a few inches would it be something you could live with? Of course it would have to not stick out so far that it would hit something coming in. And of course you'd have to be able to get around it when open. Just a thought. Good luck. Dennis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was looking the Fisher & Paykel Active Smart RF170ADX4 was the closest match, but the $2100 price and not knowing how to secure the doors stopped me (http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/RF170ADX4.html ). We ended up with a 24cuft Whirlpool side-by-side counter depth fridge, but we could go wider and were limited by being in a hallway. I used http://www.ajmadison.com/ to search for possibilities, but ended up buying from http://www.appliancesconnection.com/ . It was 4 weeks from order to delivery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We replaced our 1210 with a Samsung model FFHT1514QB from home depot. Make sure you are looking at counter depth units. Had to do some trimming on the slide roof to get the 1.5" maintenance/control panel on the top of the fridge to fit in.

 

The unit is working well and has a lot more room than the 1210.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just FYI, my kitchen slide is only 18" deep. Remember, that Norcold (same one I had) leaves a lot of empty space behind it. As long as the residential fridge has its cooling coils underneath rather than behind it, it should fit back into that empty space nicely. You can see in this photo how much mine sticks out. 2011-07-29%25252017.39.00.jpg I removed the handles because there was no real need for them and they just protruded even more. I just removed the wood trim that was across the bottom of the cabinet opening above the fridge. That gave enough room to fit and the 1" on either side of the new fridge allows the cooling air to escape from behind the unit.

 

This is not a counter depth refrigerator. I changed the hinges to the other side so it opened correctly for use and it has been great for 4 years.

 

The bungee tiedown was not a good solution as I mention in my blog. http://rvhousekeeping.blogspot.com/2011/08/close-door.html?utm_source=BP_recent

 

I have gone to a nylon cord and a FIgure 9 rope tightener on each door. 91kkW3xBgjL._SX522_.jpg

 

It does not really take much to hold them shut. The main thing is to keep them from pumping going down the road. The bungees let them do that a bit on tipsy roads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We installed a Samsung RF197 a year ago and love it. Depth and width worked well in the old Norcold 1200 opening. The new fridge was about 6" taller than the old 1200 so I did have to drop the cabinet floor about 7". I also added a 600 watt PSW inverter dedicated to run the fridge while dry camping or running down the road. This was much cheaper than changing out our 1,500 watt MSW inverter to a PSW one. We are also not feeding the parasitic loads that are attached to the main inverter so our batteries don't go down as much overnight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's actually a two bedroom Teton, a Scottsdale XT4 Royal. I think they're pretty rare, I've only seen a couple online, and it took me months to find ours!

 

Now that you mention it, I think I saw an Amana manual in my Teton "Big Book" perhaps the previous owners replaced it for some very strange reason with a Dometic?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ours came with 4 batteries and a 2500 watt inverter. If one boondocks might have too much fridge power drain. Newer units are much more efficient with energy. In 2003 they won't. Teton did not wire our fridge to sub inverter panel. I did. Found that curious but it may have been due to power drain of it. Batteries run ours all day while traveling. .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took the refer doors off and then had to remove the RV door frame, too. Just lacked about 3/4" of going through with the frame still in place. No problem with it removed.

 

Had to remove it to take out my sofa, too. Two of us did it through the door. Through the emergency exit window would have taken at least 3 plus some sort of elevated platform. Through the doorway, I just strapped it to a handtruck and eazy-peazy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...