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Toad air brake system


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I have a new to me 2008 Dynaquest DQ 340XL. I am setting it up to pull a Jeep Wrangler. I want proportional braking between the RV and the Toad, and have settled on either the M&G or SMI systems which I can plug into the RVs air brake system. My question has to do with going downhill. I can use the engine brake to hold my speed with only occasional taps on the brakes. I am concerned that with the extra weight pushing from behind, the engine brake won't be enough.

Also, there are occasions where it is handy to be able to brake the vehicle (trailer or Jeep) being towed without braking the vehicle doing the towing.

 

Thoughts? Your experience?

 

Really do not want to start a debate over whether a braking system for the Toad is necessary - already have my mind made up from towing trailers.

 

TIA

 

Rich

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I use the proportional air-activated Roadmaster Brakemaster system for towing my 05 Honda Odyssey, which weighs around 4,100 or so lbs. I have used the system for 10 years and a bit over 90k miles, traveling over most of the highest roadways and steepest descents in the US. I have never felt the weight of the toad was hampering the effectiveness of the Jacobs exhaust brake on my coach. Along with appropriate gear selection at the top of a descent, the exhaust brake controls the speed very well, only on the most severe descents requiring an occasional quick/firm stab on the brake pedal to bring speed back down to a desireable level. I have never felt a need to brake the toad w/o braking the MH.

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I also use the Roadmaster Brakemaster air system with my toad.

Going down 6% grades or some less, my exhaust brake has never been able to hold the speed at the same as when turned on.

It always gains speed. I have always needed to apply the MH brakes when the RPM gets to 2800-2900 to stop the transmission from upshifting.

 

There is no way to apply the toad brake system without using the MH brakes the same time. But there is no reason for that to be done.

As the toad will not get into a tail waging like some trailers can.

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Another Roadmaster Brakemaster user here. The Jeep brakes are engaged when I press a little harder on the coach brakes. This system is SUPER! I would never want another system. My coach does not even realize the Jeep is back there. I have a 2012 Jeep Liberty and it also weighs in above 4500 pounds.

 

The nice thing about a proportional brake system is that the toad brakes are applied as the coach brakes are engaged harder. The further the coach brakes are applied, the more the toad brakes are applied. The Roadmaster system works wonderfully. It's not a cheap system, but you get what you pay for.

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From what I have observed, there are a lot of very good auxiliary brake systems for towed vehicles which do what they claim to do. Back when we first began to tow there were fewer of them so the choices were less complicated. In my opinion, it is wise to get one which someone you know has used and was happy with, but what is really important is that you use something. I have read many satisfied reviews of nearly all of the brake systems that I am familiar with and have seen very few unhappy ones.

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We used the SMI Air Force One when towing our Honda CRV. It worked well in all situations.

 

I'm probably about to prove that I don't understand dynamics but to my mind applying toad brakes separately from the air brakes would cause the wheels on the toad to skid. Wouldn't that make a blowout more likely?

 

Linda Sand

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We dont use the air system on our DP for toad braking , instead we use a proportional electric setup by US Gear Unified Brake Systems. The brake controller is adjustable and I have led lights for feedback so I can tell how hard its braking and adjust it if needed. It also has a manual bar for applying brakes to the toad only if you want.

 

I havent tried it yet but with the exhaust brake on the MH and a light touch on the truck's brakes it would probably help on a steep descent . After all the pickup with the RZR on the back is crowding 7000 lbs. I dont believe that a light touch would slide the tires on it.

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To sandsys

 

I am new to towing a Toad, but being able to brake a trailer separate from the tow vehicle comes in handy when a trailer is starting to sway behind a truck - pulls it back in line

Like I posted. The 4 wheel down toad will not ever sway like some one axel trailers can.

So no separate brakes needed to stop a sway on a toad.

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The 4 wheel down toad will not ever sway like some one axel trailers can. So no separate brakes needed to stop a sway on a toad.

Agree ...the tow bar hookup for a four wheel toad is an entirely different dynamic than the standard trailer hitch hookup. There are many differences, not the least of which is the absence of trailer weight on the hitch point. Don't waste any time or money worrying about controlling "toad sway". ...it is a non-event.

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When descending a grade your exhaust brake will hold your coach back at a steady speed-IF you begin the descent slowly and select the proper gear in the beginning, even towing 4,000#. Sure you may not be going as fast as you desire, but it will work as designed.

Using the towed brakes only will just wear them out quickly, because you are attempting to use the braking capacity of a 4,000# vehicle to brake a 20-30,000# MH, plus the towed. FWIW, I have an M&G air braking system on the Jeep GC.

My MH weighs 31,000#, towed weighs 4,300#. Last summer I descended a 10% grade(Canada) without using my service brakes. I was in 2nd gear, exhaust brake on, and traveling about 15-20 MPH beginning the descent. I tried using 1st gear but it required using the accelerator occasionally to maintain 20 MPH. An exhaust brake is most effective at higher RPM=2,000-2,400.

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