Moresmoke

Don’t know the year of your truck, but the computers are typically wired separate from the disconnect switch. These separate feeds are the most likely to drain your battery. The big cables on the disconnect are more likely to burn the truck to the ground than cause a discharge.

What’s old is new again. Went through this back in the early ‘90s with the family fleet. We were still running direct drive transmissions because you could net a bit more fuel economy. But driveshaft problems started showing up with faster rear ratios. Finally gave In and went to overdrives, which also had the benefit of slowing down reverse.

9-9.5 with a D11 pulling a lightweight TT and carrying a car or Jeep. Drops to 6-6.5 when pulling my toyhauler. But that’s like 60000 lb.

Wet sand down to 5000 grit, then polishing compound. Yes they will continue to yellow. I’ve tried aftermarket lights and they yellowed too.

One bad battery will take down the others. If they all have been drawn down repeatedly to a level where they won’t start the truck, their performance has been reduced. 2 good batteries should be able to fire off that engine in the summer. A couple weeks ago, the local Volvo dealer had a pallet of batteries for $74.95 ea.

Make sure the clevis pin in the slack adjuster moves freely. If it is tight, it will keep the brake from releasing like it should.

Don’t forget the 40mph cross wind!

Probably politics. As semi trailers grew from 40’ to 45’ s even give then 48’ and 53’, the industry lobbied for longer limits. Most places straight truck and long trailer combos are not that common so there hasn’t been any pressure for change. How many folks would even think about their length when shopping for a 5er to pull behind their CCLB? Some of you have HDTs that are shorter than my F350.

Any locally owned banks in your area? My small town bank was more than happy to finance me.

I would guess you are overloading the reverse light circuit. The reverse lights on the truck are on the truck side of the wiring only. There is no reverse light connection on the trailer side of the truck wiring. The LCM monitors the current draw of the truck lights and will fault if out of range. The draw threshold cam be changed in the LCM, but that requires Volvo Tech Tool “the laptop” to do. Going to leds on the trailer may drop the load enough.

It is useful to know if you run heavier weights. Unfortunately the pressures that most on this forum run are so low it is hard to read on the gauge you have. Back when I ran a grain hauler for awhile, you figured out pretty quick where the needles had to be when loading. Could be within 1000 lbs each load easily. Too much slop in the gauges to do much better than that.

Some areas, the local municipalities like to restrict trucks from city streets. They argue it is for the sake of the roads, but usually it’s because they don’t want to see trucks. One of the towns near me, there is one gas station in town, with a truck diesel island. Technically you can’t fuel there as it is not on a truck route, and all the streets are posted no trucks? As to the OPs question, my county is pondering having a Deputy Sheriff for truck enforcement. The area commercial enforcement Trooper from the State Highway Patrol is retiring, and the state doesn’t plan on replacing him. So I would say it is quite possible that towns and counties can enforce most all the laws, depending where you are.

You won’t ever need chains on I29. No mountain passes to speak of, and the road is closed for visibility reasons long before you would need chains for traction.

Glider kits were originally intended that if you wrecked a late model truck, the drive train could be salvaged and the truck not totally written off. Considering today’s markets that are pretty much flooded with late model used trucks, the manufacturers have been trying to maneuver some of this used inventory off the lots. Some manufacturers have also been preventing the small fleets from placing orders for new trucks.

NDBirdman, the following is from the ND CDL manual: I take this to mean as long as the HDT is hooked to the RV trailer a class D is sufficient. Unhook, and well... Registration: Bismarck said no way, no how would they register as RV. But mostly they just want your money. HDT and LGT are on the same fee chart, so you are just paying for 8000 lbs more. Insurance - easy as can be here in ND. Talk to a FU agent. They did want HDT, Trailer, and another vehicle on the policy. Rates in line with other policies. As far as the worth it question - totally! If you travel long distances with your RV, it is so much better than a LGT. A large class A may be comparable, I have never driven one. I have a TT that many would consider half ton capable. But, out here on the prairies, it is a handful in the wind. I despise pulling it with my F350. Also, I have yet to see a LGT with a massaging seat for the DW.

I don’t have fairings in the way, but here’s what I did. I haven’t got the wiring done to connect to the trailer yet. And really have no need for 110 in the cab.

If you know where the den is, get some smoke bombs and a shovel.

You’re going to need a big gun to put that Volvo out of its misery! 😳

Food for your thought...

I’ve been to a few farms where the gas storage tank was labeled diesel, and the diesel tank was labeled gasoline...

I had an school Freightliner that had intermittent wipers. Some times they worked, some times not. The joy of air powered wipers.

I want to see a sprinter that can do this... We each have our own ideas of fun. I can take the heavy toys with me, or I can take a cool convertible that can go most anywhere and parallel park in a broom closet. Can’t do that with a one ton. Life would stink if we all had our choice of model T in any color, as long as it is black. Now back to the OP, most engines before ‘07 were serviceable. There were a few Cummins with CAPS fuel system issues, 3176 Cats, and such that may not have the best reputation. The newer emission engines after ‘10 seem to be better with the exception of Navistar, and mixed reviews on the Paccar. As far as service availability, there are many truck shops that are open 24/7. Try finding that for a LDT. Where I am, there are plenty of Ford dealers, but it may be a month before they can look at your Super Duty.

The commercial/non commercial thing for racers/rodeo/other hobbies who haul stuff is something that needs to be answered locally. That is at the discretion of the states you are in. Some states consider it commercial (and have it written in the code), others do not.

I bought the one from OTR. Leaked a bit,but worked for me. There is a sleeve inside the male portion on the radiator. The coupler pushes it in to open the passage.

Oddly, this might be one instance where keeping it as a truck might be benificial. I financed at a local bank. They had no problem financing it as a truck, even loaning me more the the purchase price so I had enough to get it set up how I wanted. (In all fairness, I paid less than “book” value for the truck.)