rpsinc

I used Lucas fork oil for motorcycles. Solved a leak AND caused the whole system to operate better. Will do that from now on.

I am hoping for Larry's good karma to work for me to get mine started. Its a challenge for sure!!

rigid insulation glued onto the back side of the door. Can be bought in various thicknesses at most home centers. Be sure to use the correct adhesive otherwise it wont stay on long.

Nope Nope The guy working on it is a Volvo master with Volvo software Here we are living this. Now they are asking IF I can have the truck towed to their shop so they can have access instead of 50 minute ride each way to try a few things. Known good ECM did not change anything. They did "tow it to a dealer"

Is there any possibility to use conduit, perhaps running under the belly and some THHN??

I'm 20 minutes north of Jojoba Hills SKP park, north of Temecula, CA. I like the facetime idea, I IPhone. Yes, I believe it is BUT what to do to correct it. That is what we are all chasing. Our relief will be unimaginable, I think. This truck, while being an '08, but with a little over 85K miles, doesnt seem to doing this kind of thing, but it is what it is and this too shall pass.

Thank you so much for sharing this!! We have been married nearly 45 years (I'm not 65 yet) and have not started our long term RVing adventures although we have an HDT and a short Teton. So glad that you helped me realize the memories that are there for the making. The RV community is out there and seems to always be welcoming. Which I was closer to give you a hug.

It is an IShift and the tranny has been in N all the time and this has been confirmed with a scan tool although the dash (TCM?) doesnt seem to acknowledge that. That is partly why I am suspicious of a broken wire some place. They guy I have working on it now owns his own shop but was previously a Master Tech at the local Volvo dealer. So he has resources and was able to "borrow" an ECM to eliminate that as a possibility. Now he is considering bringing a guy who specializes in the electrical/electronics side of these trucks, but he has accounts that he is obligated to take care of and so my truck is in an as-available situation. I am not bothered by that because I dont earn my living with it and they do, but at some point I have to get this done.

Perhaps but I cant get the thought out of my mind that there is a wire/wires that have been chewed through somewhere, and since the neutral switch is the notice coming on the dash, perhaps related to the tranny. I do have rabbits in my yard and have seen them under the truck. They did get to my personal truck a couple years ago. Not familiar enough to know where to look to eliminate that as an option. You would be welcome. Not sure where you are. The battery cables, grounds and associate relays and fuses have been checked several times.

The latest TEST was to replace the ECM with a known good one. That did not reap positive results. Same issue was realized: dash goes dark when key goes to start position. Several inspections and checks have been made to perhaps find damaged wires, either + or grounds and even signals. Nothing discovered yet. Still working at it.

I very much appreciate ALL the help given. I am trying each of the things that have been mentioned, at least the ones I can do. Its a process.

This UTube is exactly what I am experiencing. Seems he went down a parts rabbit hole and so not sure where to put the effort.

Well the saga continues. Found another shop owned by 3 guys(Father and his 2 sons) all of them worked at Volvo dealer. Dad is master tech. They have found that everything wiring wise and electrically checks out but same result. Now they are thinking that the ECM may have taken a dump. They will be looking to see if they can "borrow" one from another truck to swap into mine to test if that is the problem. They will also do the same with TCM. Hope they can do that or also looking for a test device for ECM but those are not common for independent shops but they still have contacts at dealer. Anyone know if those ECM/TCM can be repaired? Not sure what the availability is for those and what costs will be.

FYI- we stayed in an RV park in Boulder City, which is way smaller and quieter than Henderson. I recently stayed at a motel there recently and enjoyed going there after my work day. I went back to Boulder because our experience with the RV park was so good. The one we stayed at was family owned at the time and they were pretty nice.

OR, run just outside tires and leave it tandem. Thats what I am doing because I dont need the capacity but dont want to change the truck to single, cuz you just never know what tomorrow will bring.

I thought of that and double checked their website and it says 2000# capacity. I did not see per ramp or per axle. As to the spacing, well I can solve that if needed but for the advantages of cost and weight(which may change if I modify) I do like them. As a fabricator I even considered building them myself but after the material and labor is factored in, it becomes a wash. The Ramptek are lifetime structural warranty and Big Boy II are 5 years, and I also saw they are made in the USA as well.

At 2000# combined capacity, that would not be sufficient for an EV Smart and barely would be for a gas model. I personally like to have a safety factor of 50% if possible. With that in mind I found this: https://www.ramptek.com/products/ramptek-12-aluminum-bi-fold-utv-ramps 3200# capacity, weigh 45# each and American made. Oh, and did I mention they cost less! And what I like is that the rails are below the sides so that if you steer crooked, then you should be able to feel that and correct unlike the others that are flat all the way across. Winner, winner chicken dinner.

I'm at the point where it is time to get some ramps. What model are you all using? I see some at Discount Ramps BUT they cant be the only choice or vendor. As a fabricator, am also considering building my own but would like a model to follow with perhaps some "enhancements". What say you?

Not to judge anyones opinion, but we each have to become educated with what our personal situation is and how it applies to what we are doing and then decide to address it so that when WE are asked questions about how we came to have the type of license, classification etc. we know the answers, not "well this guy told me that I didnt need it". The ticket or other accountability will have our name on it, so know what you know and then decide how you will choose.

I had this happen and used cooking spray to lube the valve. It would get stuck open against the rubber seal. It isnt a cure all but does help for a while esp if you cant immediately attend to it, it will allow the valve to close. And it is non-toxic.

Gotta find out who made the windows for Volvo. Sometimes parts are proprietarty but not always. I found some slides seals for my Teton and after talking to the inside sales folks, come to find out that they supplied some seals to Teton although not sure if it was for my year/model. It just takes patience and some research. Posting here will sometimes reap some tidbits of info

I wish I knew what it is and where it is. I am thinking about if I can locate it, then perhaps jumper it out to isolate it as the culprit or not.

Not getting any attempt from the starter. Kinda expected that IF it was a battery issue, then I would hear the starter trying or the solenoid clicking, but nothing like that. Just the dash going dark when turning the key to attempt to start. Which is partly why we are looking at some anti-theft interlock. Neutral safety displays on dash and anit-theft blinking light continues, BUT with the OEM key, I was able to get the anti-theft to go out, although neutral safety display stayed and dash still went dark upon turning the key to start.

It is a D13/IShift and the neutral safety switch is the message on the dash. We believe that the switch is use to disable the starting of the truck as an anti-theft feature. My mechanic found some Volvo explanation for this, so now it appears that I need to get the ECM to recognize the chip key. Not sure what AMT stands for.

So as my drama continues and with more investigating by my patient truck mechanic, it appears that we may be dealing with something we dont really know is a fact yet, but for now a speculation. We noticed that the Anti-Theft light has been flashing during all this time and esp as we have attempted to start the truck many times. We wonder if the use of a NON chipped key would cause this condition since I had a key made that was not chipped and it has been the key I used for our WCR trip. We further wonder if, when the batteries died, that the ECM may not be recognizing this key(well no chip makes sense & perhaps lost data comm). So tonight I used the chipped key and it caused the Anti-Theft indicator to go out (which we have so far not been able to do) but the same dash conditions continued. I am planning on calling a locksmith tomorrow to see if they have the ability to program this truck(they did a new to me chipped key for my GM service truck last week). I am really trying to avoid a 60 mile tow bill by working on some of the things I can do while it is in my yard. Have not found a near to me mobile tech with Volvo experience yet. It continues...